SWG not producing chlorine

Sean_T

Member
May 24, 2019
6
Bucks County, PA
Hello all,

Thank you for taking the time to read this. We opened our pool on Monday. This is our 3rd season since buying the home. The pool has a Hayward T-9 cell. Unfortunately, the cell doesn't seem to be producing chlorine.

I ran the pump for three straight days and tested each day at Leslie's. (Note, after reading the Pool School section, I ordered my own testing kit yesterday.) My salt level at the store and on the reader is 3200. The ph is within range. However, I'm not getting any chlorine. I ran the heater today to see if that might prompt the cell to produce more, but it did not work. The output % is at 100%. There are no concerning lights.

The pool is clear and looks great, but I fear that won't last once we start swimming.

I had our pool company take a look today. The owner tested for Nitrates and said I have a high level and should drain the pool and go from there. I don't want to do that unless I'm sure the T-9 is working correctly.

They are supposed to clean the cell each fall when they close the pool. I am thinking I will unplug the cell tomorrow and take a look. Besides cleaning it, are there other things I can try? Is there a way I can test the cell? Any other suggestions?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,423
The diagnostic readings should tell us what we need to know.

If the instant salinity is accurate, the cell is working.

Do you have aquarite or prologic?

What are the first four characters of the serial number of the cell?

Most likely, you just need to SLAM.

An OCLT can help diagnose the issue.

Here's the approximate output of each cell.
T3 puts out .56lbs/24 hrs
t5 - .74/24 hrs
t9 - .98/24 hrs
t15 - 1.45/24hrs

A T-9 will create about 6.7 ppm running at 100% for 24 hours.

You should expect to need to run 12 hours per day at 100% for normal operation.

If you have algae starting, the cell can't keep up and you will have to SLAM using liquid chlorine.
 
Last edited:

aussieta

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
what is your water temperature, most swg will not produce chlorine if temp is below 60f
if water is over 60, take a sample from the return jet, which should be super chlorinated, if there is such a term
test this sample
lastly as you are aware, pool store testing is worth exactly how much you paid for it... nothing
 

Sean_T

Member
May 24, 2019
6
Bucks County, PA
Thank you, @JamesW and @mknauss.

I have aquarite. The first characters are 3E14. If this is not what you need, please let me know.

Here are the diagnostics:

3400
88
26.5
4.98
100P
-3200
AL-0
r1.59
t-9

The water was originally at 69 degrees. I was running the heater yesterday in anticipation of swimming. Let me know if this is a mistake.

Is there anything else I can provide you? I appreciate the support.
 

YippeeSkippy

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 17, 2012
10,174
Evans, Georgia
You only want to clean a cell *if* it needs it. Each time its cleaned you shorten its lifespan.

While your SWG is on the fritz, or until you can determine if its really working but you have algae, use liquid chlorine to keep your FC up.

You need to obtain your own test kit. Pool Store tests don't cut it.. We need to know we're all speaking the same testing language and perform the tests the same way for consistency.

Nitrates mean nothing. Ignore anyone who suggests you should drain your pool based on nitrates.

Maddie :flower:
 

Sean_T

Member
May 24, 2019
6
Bucks County, PA
The cell is generating.

We suggest an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Raise your FC to 20% of your CYA with liquid chlorine for the test

To do that, you need to have a proper test kit. We recommend the TF100 - Test Kits Compared
Thank you so much. I ordered the K-2006. Unfortunately, it's not scheduled to arrive for 5 days. Is there a FC only test I can get at Leslie's? My three in-store water tests showed my CYA at 0. I am working to raise it. So if I get it up to 80, does that mean I need to bring FC to 16? can I do it simultaneously?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
May 3, 2014
17,646
Laughlin, NV
Do not bring your CYA up to 80 yet. Target 30-40 ppm CYA so when you get your kit, if you need to SLAM, you will not have issues with the higher CYA.

Leslies does not have the tests you need.

Did you purchase the K2006C, the C is important. The regular K2006 will need certain reagent refills immediately.

The better value is the TF100. More of the reagents you will mostly use.
 

Sean_T

Member
May 24, 2019
6
Bucks County, PA
Do not bring your CYA up to 80 yet. Target 30-40 ppm CYA so when you get your kit, if you need to SLAM, you will not have issues with the higher CYA.

Leslies does not have the tests you need.

Did you purchase the K2006C, the C is important. The regular K2006 will need certain reagent refills immediately.

The better value is the TF100. More of the reagents you will mostly use.
Thank you @mknauss . If I can find a retailer who sells the TF100 I will buy that today. Suggestions?
I bought the K2006 through Amazon, not the K2006C. (Shoots self in foot.) I can return it.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
14,423
The cell was made in 2014. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years.

Your diagnostic readings indicate that the cell is performing and making chlorine.

The Aquarite is easy to diagnose.

Basically, you just divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

As long as the number is at least 75% you're good.

You just need a SLAM.
 

Saturn94

Well-known member
Mar 11, 2015
627
Virginia
The cell was made in 2014. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years.

Your diagnostic readings indicate that the cell is performing and making chlorine.

The Aquarite is easy to diagnose.

Basically, you just divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

As long as the number is at least 75% you're good.

You just need a SLAM.
Great info! 👍

I wondered at what point the difference in readings would indicate a failing cell.
 

Sean_T

Member
May 24, 2019
6
Bucks County, PA
The cell was made in 2014. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years.

Your diagnostic readings indicate that the cell is performing and making chlorine.

The Aquarite is easy to diagnose.

Basically, you just divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

As long as the number is at least 75% you're good.

You just need a SLAM.
You are all awesome.
 

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