SWCG previously installed but currently disabled

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The zero voltage indicates a problem.

The service person should have been able to figure that out.

Hopefully, they will send someone who knows what they're doing and does a thorough proper job.
 
This circuit board looks different than the ones I see on the YouTube vids to replace the Thermistor.
 

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I had a SWG similar to yours installed on a pool I acquired with a home purchase last fall. It stopped working about a month after I moved in. On mine, even after replacing the flow switch it’d just light up the error light “no flow.”

This spring I replaced it all with a Circupool Universal40. I can’t speak highly enough of the unit. If you are in a situation where you are replacing, I’d recommend a serious look into the circupool. Super easy to install and fits in the exact opening you already have in your plumbing. More than likely, it’s not much more to replace the entire system with the circupool than replacing your current salt cell. Let me know if you have any questions about the unit.
 
chadly08 said:
I had a SWG similar to yours installed on a pool I acquired with a home purchase last fall. It stopped working about a month after I moved in. On mine, even after replacing the flow switch it’d just light up the error light “no flow.”

This spring I replaced it all with a Circupool Universal40. I can’t speak highly enough of the unit. If you are in a situation where you are replacing, I’d recommend a serious look into the circupool. Super easy to install and fits in the exact opening you already have in your plumbing. More than likely, it’s not much more to replace the entire system with the circupool than replacing your current salt cell. Let me know if you have any questions about the unit.
Click to expand...
I’m still in the works to contact our warranty company to see if they can replace the circuit board. However I would like to learn more about your Circupool Universal40. Is there a thread you can link me to about your project? I already have the salt cell so if I go your route, can I just purchase a new controller?
 

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giant_bronut said:
I’m still in the works to contact our warranty company to see if they can replace the circuit board. However I would like to learn more about your Circupool Universal40. Is there a thread you can link me to about your project? I already have the salt cell so if I go your route, can I just purchase a new controller?
Click to expand...
I doubt that you’d be able to use the circupool controller to control a non-circupool cell. I had asked a question on this site about using a Hayward T-15 cell with a circupool controller and no one had any experience. I wound deciding to just replace both this year. Doing it yourself makes it a much more affordable project.

Saltwater Swimming Pool Systems & Supplies | Discount Salt Pool

Installation was so easy I didn’t even document the process. It’s as simple as a couple of wires and twisting in the new cell.
 
Hi All,

After some additional research I played around with the settings on the Control and I turned up the Pool Chlorinator to 30%.

I went to Diagnostics where it says "Chlorinator Off Test Salt Level" and pressed +.
After the delay it shows:
-27.35V
-3.67A
71 degrees
1600 ppm

After reversing the polarity:
27.23V
3.78A
71 degrees
1600 ppm

Does this mean I am in working order now? When i last tested the salt level using Taylor 1766, it showed 1800ppm. Can I add salt to the pool to have the salt cell working?
 
Just to be on the safe side i have a couple of questions:
1. Should I raise it to 3000ppm?
2. I have an approximate size of 20,000 gallon. To raise the salinity from 1800ppm to 3000ppm, Taylor test kit indicates to add about 200 lb of salt. Does that sound about right?
 
giant_bronut said:
Should I raise it to 3000ppm?
Click to expand...
Yes.
giant_bronut said:
2. I have an approximate size of 20,000 gallon. To raise the salinity from 1800ppm to 3000ppm, Taylor test kit indicates to add about 200 lb of salt. Does that sound about right?
Click to expand...
That is correct.

I would add 160 lbs and then retest after you are sure that the salt is well mixed in.

160 lbs of salt should raise the salinity by about 956 ppm if everything is being done correctly.

160 lbs of salt should bring the salinity to about 2556 on the display.

Turn the box off until the salt is 100% mixed in.

Brush the pool thoroughly 3 X and circulate 24 hours.

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I added 160 lbs of pool salt and brushed it throughout a number of times and left the pump running (with the SWCG off). After a few hours I wanted to test the salinity using K-1766 Test and confirm that my controller was also picking it up. I had received a reading of 2600 ppm on both (Salt Test Kit and Aqualogic). Aqualogic gave me a check system notification for Low Salt (as it probably required 3000ppm for salt) so I decided to add another 80 lbs of salt to raise the salinity by 480ppm. I turned off the SWCG after running the test.

After adding 80lbs of salt and brushing it throughout the pool and running the pump through the night, I have a reading on both salt test kit and Aqualogic of 3000ppm and the check system light is not appearing. I turned off the SWCG after running this test. At this point I'll continue to let the pump run (suction via the drain) for another few hours.

At what point shall I turn on the SWCG to check if it is producing Chlorine in the pool? I am assuming I will have to change the output to 75%-80% and run the pump for 6-8 hours.
 
I was curious how much chlorine is created with the salt cell so I ran a test.

OCLT:
7:30pm FC = 5.5 ppm
7:30am FC = 5ppm

No significant loss in chlorine overnight (yay!)

ran the pump from 9am - 4:30pm at 60% output

6:30pm FC = 6.5ppm


The cya is currently at 60ppm, should I look to increase it to 70ppm? Target FC should be 5ppm based on the cya/chlorine chart in the SWG.

There wasn’t much sun out today but should I decrease the chlorine output to 50% and run the pump for 6 hours?
 

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