Hayward Aqualogic - Further Reading


Hayward AquaLogic

Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN Board.jpg

The Hayward Goldline AquaLogic automation and chlorination models AQL-PS-4, AQL-PS-8-V, AQL-PS-8 AQL-PS-16-V, AQL-PS-16 use the GLX-PCB-MAIN board. 2.86 is the latest Aqualogic firmware.

Goldline introduced AquaLogic in 2003. Hayward acquired Goldline in August of 2004. Hayward discontinued AquaLogic in 2008 and replaced it with Hayward ProLogic. Firmware 3.XX and above is for ProLogic systems.[1]

ProLogic/Aqualogic Troubleshooting Guide is a good place to start with problems.

A description of the board repair is at REPAIRED! - Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN.

Hayward Authorized Online Sellers shows which online sellers are authorized Hayward dealers.

SWG Cell Basic Diagnostics

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
    • When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
    • Then, press + again and note the new readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Low Salt

Low salt messages are often the first indication of a failing cell. Don't add salt until you verify the water salt level with a Taylor K-1766 Test Kit or Salt test strips.

High Salt/Amps

The “Chlorinator Off High Salt” warning comes on when the current exceeds 8 amps regardless of the salt level. This can be caused by high salt but also by high water temperatures. [2]

If it says high salt, the amps were above 8.0. If the volts are more than 32 at any point, the circuit board is probably damaged.[3]

Check under the diagnostics menu for the correct cell size. If you select the cell size to t-3, t-5 or t-9 instead of the correct t-15 then the salt readout from the controller will be high salt.[4]

AquaLogic K1 Relay bad solder.jpg

Common cause is failure of the solder joint to the K1 relay.[5] The K1 relay does not need to be replaced. It only needs to be re-soldered. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem.

Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor is a standard 10K ohm thermistor.

Replacement part number is GLX-PC-12-KIT. A clamp holds on the sensor and the two wires go into a terminal block in the box. Make sure that all power if off before going in the box and don't do anything that you are not sure you can do safely.[6]

Aqualogic Losing Time

Hayward AquaLogic RTC Problem.jpg

The clock does not keep proper time.[7]

A thread on this board repair can be found at Hayward ECommand not keeping time: updated DIY repair guide.

You can replace the board or try repairing the board. On the board it has a capacitor on the left top corner, it's like a double battery in wrap. You can buy on Ebay for about $3 and 5 mins to replace it. After replacement you run for 1 hr it will charge the battery.[8]

On the board:

  • U1-Microprocessor is PIC18F2620 (28 pin version)
  • U2-Real Time Clock is Dallas / Maxim RTC is $3.50 at Digikey (DS1302Z+CT-ND)
  • C3-Super Cap is 5v and .33UF Digi-Key KR-5R5V334-R
  • X2-is a 32.768 kHz Crystal Epson MC-306 / 6 pF (SER4099CT-ND at Digikey) and costs $.046

Some people replaced just the C3 capacitor, others repalced C3 and X2, and others replaced U2, X2 and C3.[9] Replacing U2 and X2 is not an easy soldering job if you are not used to surface mount parts, don't try it.

After replacing parts you need to wait about 24 hours for the real time clock to start working and then adjusting it to current time.

Aqualogic Filter Pump Starts in Spillover Mode

Unlock the configuration menu and go to Pool/Spa Options. You should be able to cycle through the following options: Pool/Spa Setup, Spa Countdown, Spa Spillover, and Filter Operation.

Go to Filter Operation and you should be able to toggle between Pool Only (default) and Spa Spillover. This setting determines how the valves are positioned when the timer for the filter kicks in. This way, you can still set the valves to the Spa Spillover mode manually or a separate schedule.

VS Pump Support

You need software version 2.65 or higher to support a VS pump. Unfortunately, it is not possible to upgrade the board firmware. You have to either replace the board with a Prologic board or go with another controller.[10]

Variable Speed Control Operation (using Aqua Logic Control) illustrates the wiring for a Hayward VS pump to connect to Aqualogic.

Relays

High voltage relays are GLX-RELAY and uses 24V DC.

Hayward AQL-RELAY-AC-KT 3 HP 240-volt High AC voltage Relay Replacement Kit for Hayward Pool Automation and Control Systems uses 24V AC and is designed to be used in a valve actuator socket. This can be used if you have used all the AUX relays and have actuator sockets free.

U4/U5 Relay Driver Failure

The U4 and U5 chips are Micrel MIC5841/5842 relay drivers[11] that control the K1, K2, K3, actuator and power relays.[12]

A relay failure can blow out the driver chip. If you replace them, you might want to test continuity on the relays to make sure they are not shorted.

Hayward Aqualogic U4 Driver Failure.jpg

When a member replaced the U4/U5 chips he added sockets so they could be easily replaced again.[13]

Hayward Prologic Socketed U4 U5 Drivers.png

Tips

  • high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high.
  • You should not add salt directly to the skimmer boxes as it will cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system.
  • It is recommended to turn off the turbocell before adding salt
  • the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point.
  • The K1 and K2 carry the DC low voltage (polarity reversal) to the salt cell.[14]
  • The K1 problem causes amps to always be exactly zero.[15]
  • Use a 30 watt soldering iron and 60/40% rosin core (solder lead)
  • Your don’t have to unhook mother board wires. Just turn it over. Make sure it is level before adding solder.[16]
  • There are different versions of the main board. You can find various pictures in this thread.

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  1. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/highest-firmware-for-hayward-glx-pcb-main-boards.281816/post-2468878
  2. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqua-logic-salt-too-high-cholrinator-off-high-salt-amps.34466/post-1256487
  3. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/chlorinator-off-high-salt.204950/post-1804216
  4. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqua-logic-salt-too-high-cholrinator-off-high-salt-amps.34466/post-287663
  5. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqua-logic-salt-too-high-cholrinator-off-high-salt-amps.34466/post-310225
  6. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/water-sensor-open-default-code.79551/post-682536
  7. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqualogic-losing-time.57949/
  8. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqualogic-losing-time.57949/post-1494728
  9. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqualogic-losing-time.57949/post-1547883
  10. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/need-new-pump-vs-compatible-with-my-automation.218734/post-1914650
  11. https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/mic5841-779182.pdf
  12. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/board-repair.286442/post-2510541
  13. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/board-repair.286442/post-2510541
  14. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/lightning-took-out-power-to-aquatrol-display.168439/post-1485894
  15. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqua-logic-salt-too-high-cholrinator-off-high-salt-amps.34466/post-657023
  16. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqua-logic-salt-too-high-cholrinator-off-high-salt-amps.34466/post-1638689