Stinging sensation – bonding issue, stray voltage, or something else?

It should come out to exactly 60 hz.

Check a regular outlet to see if it is exactly 60 hz.

I would have someone watch the oscilloscope as you turn things on and off to see if the signal changes.
 
It should come out to exactly 60 hz.

Check a regular outlet to see if it is exactly 60 hz.

I would have someone watch the oscilloscope as you turn things on and off to see if the signal changes.
I compared back to your sample pictures and see the start and end of the waves are actually the same cadence 16ms which does put my frequency at 60Hz.

Thanks for your patience and guidance!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
Do you have a main CB cutoff on your main house electrical panel?

I would completely power down the house and see if the stray voltage is still there.

That way you know if you need to focus on the house circuits or the voltage is coming from external to the house electrical panel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bugman1401
Do you have a main CB cutoff on your main house electrical panel?

I would completely power down the house and see if the stray voltage is still there.

That way you know if you need to focus on the house circuits or the voltage is coming from external to the house electrical panel.
I have not yet flipped the main CB. But that’s next on my list.
 
Set the multimeter to measure current and check how much current flows from the same test points.

When you shut off power to the house, have an electrician measure the current on the main utility neutral.

Then, have the electrician disconnect the main utility neutral and check for voltage between the utility neutral wire and the panel neutral bus bar.

Watch the oscilloscope while shutting off power and disconnecting the neutral to see if the signal changes.

Note: Do not do this yourself.

Only a licensed electrician should work with electricity in a panel box, especially connecting or disconnecting wires.

The neutral can carry high current; so it is dangerous to work on.

The power has to be off when disconnecting and reconnecting the main utility neutral.

If current is flowing or trying to flow when the neutral is disconnected or reconnected, it will spark due to current trying to jump the gap as the wire gets close to the connection point.


Here are some videos that will help you understand how your electricity works.




 
Last edited:
You might need to disconnect the neutral in the meter box to isolate it from the rest of the system, but this should only be done by a qualified professional like an electrician or someone from the power company.

You might have a bad main neutral wire, which will greatly increase the neutral current traveling through your property in the ground.

1659112350164.png
 
You might need to disconnect the neutral in the meter box to isolate it from the rest of the system, but this should only be done by a qualified professional like an electrician or someone from the power company.

You might have a bad main neutral wire, which will greatly increase the neutral current traveling through your property in the ground.

View attachment 441517
I had my power company out to do this neutral to ground/Earth test. They said the test passed. I didn’t know enough then to ask what they specifically tested.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
This is a significant issue and the only way you are going to have any hope of finding the cause and fixing it is to get someone who really knows what they’re doing to figure it out.

The power company probably sent out a basic tech with a $1.99 Harbor Freight multimeter to check a few test points to say they checked it and it’s fine.

Well, it’s not fine if people are getting electrocuted when getting in or out of the pool.
 
I had my power company out to do this neutral to ground/Earth test. They said the test passed. I didn’t know enough then to ask what they specifically tested.

First step is to cut house power and see if the voltage is still there.

Next step is to have the power company pull the meter and neutral from the house and see if the voltage is still there.

Whatever tests it passed the only real test is the absence of the stray voltage.

If the voltage is still there with the meter pulled and neutral disconnected then it can be from a neighboring property or other utility services along your street,
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
BTW, should you lose power and get a blackout for whatever reason gather your meters and run out and measure the voltage around your pool.

One member did this and discovered even with the neighborhood dark the stray voltage was still present.
 
  • Like
Reactions: newtoPoolsSWG
First step is to cut house power and see if the voltage is still there.

Next step is to have the power company pull the meter and neutral from the house and see if the voltage is still there.

Whatever tests it passed the only real test is the absence of the stray voltage.

If the voltage is still there with the meter pulled and neutral disconnected then it can be from a neighboring property or other utility services along your street,
Pic 1 (1.28v) is main CB on and pool equip off.
Pic 2 (1.22v) main CB off.

Seems like that indicates it’s like NEV?
 

Attachments

  • 422260AE-55D4-4EA8-8F08-32F4D21EE9BF.jpeg
    422260AE-55D4-4EA8-8F08-32F4D21EE9BF.jpeg
    358.7 KB · Views: 9
  • 3CC0BDA0-482D-4135-A81D-A90EB111C137.jpeg
    3CC0BDA0-482D-4135-A81D-A90EB111C137.jpeg
    416.8 KB · Views: 9
Seems like that indicates it’s like NEV?
I think that NEV is the most likely problem.

I would want to see what happens if the neutral is disconnected at the meter.

Is there current on the neutral when the main breaker is off?

Is there a voltage between the neutral and the house neutral?

What happens to the railing voltage with the neutral disconnected?

Again, anything at the panel or meter should only be done by a qualified professional.
 
Set the meter to read current and test between the same two point where you are reading 1.2 volts.

Note: Do not leave the meter configured for reading current.

Reconfigure for voltage immediately after testing for current.

If the meter is set for testing current when connected in parallel to 120 volts or 240 volts, you will create a direct short and a big spark will blow up your meter.

You can measure amperage (10 amps max) in series with 120 or 240 volt appliances, but you need to know how to do that.

To configure for testing amperage, move the red lead to the A terminal as shown.

Set the meter to AC amps.

Test between the two points where you are reading 1.2 volts.



1659138889690.png

 
Last edited:
Set the meter to read current and test between the same two point where you are reading 1.2 volts.

Note: Do not leave the meter configured for reading current.

Reconfigure for voltage immediately after testing for current.

If the meter is set for testing current when connected in parallel to 120 volts or 240 volts, you will create a direct short and a big spark will blow up your meter.

You can measure amperage (10 amps max) in series with 120 or 240 volt appliances, but you need to know how to do that.

To configure for testing amperage, move the red lead to the A terminal as shown.

Set the meter to AC amps.

Test between the two points where you are reading 1.2 volts.



View attachment 441649

Appreciate the detailed picture to ensure I connected correctly.

I wasn’t getting anything on the 10A plug so swapped to mA.
 

Attachments

  • 1C11ABF9-6B68-46A0-A6EF-3E6FB182E4D0.jpeg
    1C11ABF9-6B68-46A0-A6EF-3E6FB182E4D0.jpeg
    759.7 KB · Views: 11

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.