Stenner liquid chlorine pump - How to choose and install
- Thread starter Steve_in_C
- Start date
Well, I finally got my Stenner system installed and running! Very excited to be relieved of having to pour chlorine in the pool every day. After everything was up and running, I performed the one-hour test suggested at the top of this thread. But without super-accurate measuring (no more than .5 ppm/drop) I wasn't satisfied with the result. So I just ran the pump, collecting the chlorine, for 30 minutes and measured the output, which on my E10T2B should have been 22.8 oz. It actually was more like 27 oz., so that is what I'll base my settings on for now. I'm going with 3 injections, 31 minutes each, to make sure I get a full dose each time. That should be in the neighborhood of 80 oz./day of 10% chlorine, or roughly 2.5 ppm. That'll be a good starting point until I have several days of testing and until the weather gets hotter and the swimmer load gets heavier.
Mounted between tank in the basement (right) and the pump/filter plumbing (left), a rise of probably 7-8 feet and a horizontal run of 12 feet before it falls down to the injection site.
Redid all of my plumbing with a new VS pump and the addition of my heater and the Stenner injection. Very happy with how it turned out.
The display on the Stenner is TINY, and of course orientated the wrong way for how I had planned to mount it. But I went with it this way anyway.
Found a 35-gal. tank on eBay and set it up in the corner of my basement nearest the pump.
This is where the LC leaves the tank on its way to the Stenner pump.
Mounted between tank in the basement (right) and the pump/filter plumbing (left), a rise of probably 7-8 feet and a horizontal run of 12 feet before it falls down to the injection site.
Redid all of my plumbing with a new VS pump and the addition of my heater and the Stenner injection. Very happy with how it turned out.
The display on the Stenner is TINY, and of course orientated the wrong way for how I had planned to mount it. But I went with it this way anyway.
Found a 35-gal. tank on eBay and set it up in the corner of my basement nearest the pump.
This is where the LC leaves the tank on its way to the Stenner pump.
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I calibrated my pump using the 25mL sample size (nearest 0.2 FC). It has been reliable at the same rate. Replaced my pump tube this Spring with the same number tube. Recalibration: same result. I continue to have 60min = 1ppm for my pool size and bleach concentration. When I purchase my next replacement tube for next Spring, I 'm going to buy a larger tube to cut down on the run time. But mine has been very consistent and predictable. For me it it's easier to think in ppm rather than oz or mL. But that is just a personal preference. My Stenner settings for last year attached. Note: solar cover used much of the time may cut back on FC use.
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That IS a nice clean install, however...
Any of the lines that go outside are subject to UV exposure, and will degrade.
Stenner does make a black UV resistant tubing that I foresee you having to go to for outdoor runs.
The clear tubing lasted me for my first year, then I had to change to the UV rated tubing.
Any of the lines that go outside are subject to UV exposure, and will degrade.
Stenner does make a black UV resistant tubing that I foresee you having to go to for outdoor runs.
The clear tubing lasted me for my first year, then I had to change to the UV rated tubing.
Right after I route a gas line to my heater, replace the ceiling in the laundry room, finish my son's bedroom, clean out the pool at the house we're selling, move all our Crud out of said house ...Cee, nice clean install bud!!When are you coming over to do my setup?
That is well noted; however, the 12-foot horizontal run is hidden inside vinyl siding trim and not exposed. Only the short piece that drops down to the injection site, and half of that will be cable-tied to the underside of the PVC pipe. The whole thing sits on the north side of the house under a 4-foot overhang. I will definitely keep in mind the black tubing, which would be very simple to replace, but I'm hoping it weathers well as is.
Cee...here's a picture of exactly where my clear tubing degraded a few weeks ago from the sun...it lasted just about a year. Unfortunately we were gone for 10 days when it happened and I don't know how long I had no chlorine...just that it was 0 when we got back. Luckily, it was on the suction side (so no leak, just dry heaving) vs the return side. I thought I had little to worry about.
EDIT: Actually it was just to the left on the other tube. I circled the wrong one.
From this thread: Stenner installation with buried tank for AZ heat
I have heard of others covering fittings/tubing with tin foil to block the sun's light and prolong the life of the tubing.
colonelkirby
Silver Supporter
I have the UV tubing but also run it thru a length 3/4" Liquidtight Flexible Non-Metallic PVC Conduit. The injector fitting fits inside snuggly.
Well, shoot. You guys are giving me more work to do when I thought I was all done! I've already exchanged emails with somebody at Stenner about pumps. I'll contact him again to see if he has UV line recommendations with chlorine use.
Also, does anyone know what venting I'll need, if any, with the tank setup in the basement?
Also, does anyone know what venting I'll need, if any, with the tank setup in the basement?
Sorry for the delayed response. I don't think you have to worry about venting in the basement. Many have washing machines in the basement using bleach with no venting problems. If you were to spill bleach and it mixed with other chemicals then you could have a chlorine gas problem. Aside from that., the sodium hypochlorite bleach smell should not be a big issue as long as you do not experience a strong smell when in your basement. If you do, then you might have to reconsider basement venting.
It's been a while since I've had a peristaltic pump like the Stenner. I'm not sure what to make of of this air gap just off the pump on the pressure side. Should I be concerned?
(I see now it might be difficult to see, so there's a gap all the way down to the low point of the line. It does seem to be pumping chlorine just fine.)
(I see now it might be difficult to see, so there's a gap all the way down to the low point of the line. It does seem to be pumping chlorine just fine.)
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Mine does the same thing sometimes.
The way you have the tubing routed (there's nothing wrong with it) and the small amount that the pump ejects, doesn't produce enough volume to force the air out of the tubing. So, as the pump runs, the bleach runs down the tubing and the air stays in place even though the bleach is getting forced into the system.
As long as the air pocket isn't getting bigger, it's not a problem. However if it bothers you (it gnaws on my OCD), you can manipulate the tubing while it's running and get it to pump the air out. It takes a little while, but you can get it out.
The way you have the tubing routed (there's nothing wrong with it) and the small amount that the pump ejects, doesn't produce enough volume to force the air out of the tubing. So, as the pump runs, the bleach runs down the tubing and the air stays in place even though the bleach is getting forced into the system.
As long as the air pocket isn't getting bigger, it's not a problem. However if it bothers you (it gnaws on my OCD), you can manipulate the tubing while it's running and get it to pump the air out. It takes a little while, but you can get it out.
For those contemplating a Stenner tube changeout to adjust their chlorine/acid dispersal rate (gallons/day OR oz/min)...Yesterday, I found that by going from a #2 tube (10gpd) to a #3 tube (22gpd), I changed my rate from 1.1oz/min to 2.2oz/min, pretty close to expected. I implemented this on my Stenner pump for my chlorine tank.
Hi folks - I'm considering a Stenner setup for both LC AND Muriatic Acid, and I was wondering how anyone with this dual setup has dealt with the need to somewhat separate the injection sites from each other; how far apart physically are your injection tees, or do you just separate your pump timing(s) such that there is never a potential for bad mixy/mixy, lol? Do you use the high pressure duckbill check valves, or just the low pressure injection fittings? Thanks in advance for any insight.
I don't currently have both, so I guess technically I'm not in your requested group, but if you don't get any answers from people who have both currently and you'd like advice from somebody that has done it in the past, I'll be glad to tell you what I know. 
One possible solution if you have multiple returns is to inject acid into one, chlorine into the other. Add check valves and flow switches for additional protection and you should be over engineered.
But then I’m a French model, so this isn’t my expertise.
But then I’m a French model, so this isn’t my expertise.
'Bama, I'm all ears.....
Anotherpyr, I really only have one 2" return line after the filter and before the Paramount floor cleaning distribution module, but "Merci" for the suggestion. I also was thinking that check valves might be prudent here, even though the backpressure is low, just to prevent any mixing.
Anotherpyr, I really only have one 2" return line after the filter and before the Paramount floor cleaning distribution module, but "Merci" for the suggestion. I also was thinking that check valves might be prudent here, even though the backpressure is low, just to prevent any mixing.
In real world experience the bleach and acid injection points only need to be about a foot apart unless you plan on using a 50 gpd or larger injection pump and running both at the same time. It doesn't make much difference, but in my opinion, the bleach injection point should be upstream of the acid injection point.
Using a 10 gpd pump you're injecting such a small stream of either acid or bleach in the water stream that there'll' be no more reaction than adding it to the bulk water.
Also, while it really doesn't matter, I recommend using the injection fitting with check valve instead of the duck bill.
NOTE: It's good practice to run the bleach and acid pumps at different times, and I recommend doing that if possible.
Using a 10 gpd pump you're injecting such a small stream of either acid or bleach in the water stream that there'll' be no more reaction than adding it to the bulk water.
Also, while it really doesn't matter, I recommend using the injection fitting with check valve instead of the duck bill.
NOTE: It's good practice to run the bleach and acid pumps at different times, and I recommend doing that if possible.
