The inline model's body can be unscrewed from its T-fitting. I then re-purposed the T to attach the Stenner injection point. There is one gotcha though, there is a set screw in the vertical T component. Feel around under the feeder body to find it. Remove it before you unscrew the body so you don't wreck the threads.Has anyone here repurposed their puck feeder to inject chlorine bleach? I have a Pentair Rainbow Model 320. It seems feasible that a injection point could be added between the dial/controller and the body of the unit. Has anyone attempted this modification?
This is generally not suggested by TFP. Accidentally mixing bleach and trichlor can cause the buildup and release of chlorine gas and/or cause an explosive condition. If one were to modify the puck feeder in a non-obvious way to inject bleach and another individual was unaware of the modification, that person could be exposed to a very dangerous condition. It might be a low probability event, but modifying a product in any way voids the manufacturer’s warranty and liability and shifts all responsibility and liability to the person that modified it.Has anyone here repurposed their puck feeder to inject chlorine bleach? I have a Pentair Rainbow Model 320. It seems feasible that a injection point could be added between the dial/controller and the body of the unit. Has anyone attempted this modification?
Not being familiar with solenoid dosing pumps, I assume that you can set it down with a timer or some type of control. The lowest value listed for the models on your data sheet shows 1 liter / hour. Since your usage is 1-1.25 liters per day, I would think that the lowest volume model would work. But it's all dependent on the controls that you have. If you set this up, let us know how it works,, costs, etc..Please forgive me if this has been answered. I am buying a replacement solenoid dosing pump for liquid chlorine injection. From years of experience, I know that I regularly use between 1 liter and 1.25 liters PER DAY to keep my free chlorine level at 2-3ppm which is fine for my pool. My question has to do with the SIZING of the dosing pump. My circulation pump runs 8 hours per day in 4 intervals. My old dosing pump runs on a timer which is activated when the circulation pump turns on . I control the amount of chlorine added by how long I have the dosing pump running, usually 1 to 2 minutes for each circulation pump interval. My question is which of the following models would be best to choose as a replacement. The 0110 model is closest to what I am replacing but since the circulation pump operates at a low bar, I am wondering whether the 0607 might be better suited. The dosing pump models shown can be adjusted to lower the “strokes” which would reduce the amount injected per “run”. (PS I live in Italy and hence the liters/hour etc.). I know that most of the models shown (on the left side of the graph) would work, but which would be best? Many thanks for your advice
I bought the fixed head model as it seemed to be a bit easier to dial in, I also heard the adjustable head can be a little noisy. It is rated for 100 psi. The tank is the gray model and is pretty sturdy. I did build a box around it to keep it a bit more shaded. So far, I am more than pleased with It.Do you have the 45MHP10 adjustable head model or single fixed model? 25psi or 100psi max?
I was looking at the 45MHP10 , but didn't know if I would need the adjustable head. How is the tank holding up in the weather, did you get the gray UV or regular white tank?
I think everyone who uses a Stenner to pump acid does this to some degree. Depending on your timer/controller, it can be easy/hard to do a manual dose. Currently I use a sprinkler controller to control my Stenner pumps (that will change soon with updates to my automation system). For me, I turn the sprinkler controller on manual mode and run the pump for TBD minutes. I put full strength 34% acid in my Acid tank. You obviously still have to deal with the MA when you fill your tank.Has anybody used a stenner to pump a diluted acid solution into the pool to eliminate dosing by hand?
Hey GoGrab...I’m pretty new to the Stenner pumps (almost 2 years for chlorine, 1 year for acid), and have been lucky with only one failure: a leak in a line...BUT I didn’t have the UV resistant black tubing at the time. I also replaced my dosing tube in my chlorine pump at this time last year. Do you have the black tubing?Over the course of ownership, I have replaced countless tubes (one of which downright split causing a disasterous low-chlorine situation in full Phoenix sun), countless ferrules, several duckbills, brittle sections of tubing (caused by the chlorine, not the sun), just replaced the roller head the other day, and so on. I've found that the tubes fail inconsistently. It may be a year, it may be 6 months. It could be 4 months. The failures may be in the form of split tubes or hardened tubes that may allow back-pressure (failed duckbill) to put water into the chlorine tank.
Yes, I'm interested also. I've only been running my Stenner pump for a year, and no problems whatsoever. I also have a completely shaded system, and less heat. I also don't use anything stronger than the 6% bleach. Can you tell us more about if the cracks are in the PVC or in the black tubing? Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to check it out well. Perhaps I should change the tube in the pump in this next week. And being in Northern CA, we didn't run our pool from October till May 15th. But I'm installing solar panels soon, to try to lengthen that time.Hey GoGrab...I’m pretty new to the Stenner pumps (almost 2 years for chlorine, 1 year for acid), and have been lucky with only one failure: a leak in a line...BUT I didn’t have the UV resistant black tubing at the time. I also replaced my dosing tube in my chlorine pump at this time last year. Do you have the black tubing?
On the brittleness, is that just for the tubing from the pump to the injection valve (which is higher pressure than the tank line)? I want to be careful to look for these failures. My system is pretty much entirely shaded so I am wondering if that might apply to my “luck”.
I haven’t had any ferrule issues. But I have worried about bending/pressure on those tubes which make tight turns right out of their connective points (at the pump or injection valve), could that be an issue?