Stenner liquid chlorine pump - How to choose and install

CeeElGee78

Member
Sep 19, 2018
24
Battle Creek, MI
View attachment 84723View attachment 84724

My Stenner pump and my supply of 6% bleach. This is more than I will use for the rest of this season. I don't like to haul bleach. 2 trips a year is all it takes. The good thing is that at lower temps over the winter, the half life should be > 3 years. So it will still be OK to use next year. Just to be sure, I'll do a check on the leftover bleach strength next year.
I'm a Johnny-come-lately to this discussion but I believe my solution for 2019 is a Stenner pump as we have traded in our 18-ft. Intex for a house with a full-on, 18x36 in-ground behemoth. The days of dribbling a quart of LC in front of a return are over! I'm interested in doing more research on the longevity of 6% vs. the more concentrated (thus less to lug around) 12.5%, but I'm wondering if this is a photo of your setup and how far it is from your return line injection site? I have a spot is a basement that is probably six feet below and maybe 25-30 feet away from my pump/filter/return line. Could the whole Stenner setup be that far away from the injection site?

I think the average person should just synchronize timers.
That's me!
 

Steve_in_C

Bronze Supporter
Jul 6, 2017
344
Kinston, NC
I'm a Johnny-come-lately to this discussion but I believe my solution for 2019 is a Stenner pump as we have traded in our 18-ft. Intex for a house with a full-on, 18x36 in-ground behemoth. The days of dribbling a quart of LC in front of a return are over! I'm interested in doing more research on the longevity of 6% vs. the more concentrated (thus less to lug around) 12.5%, but I'm wondering if this is a photo of your setup and how far it is from your return line injection site? I have a spot is a basement that is probably six feet below and maybe 25-30 feet away from my pump/filter/return line. Could the whole Stenner setup be that far away from the injection site?



That's me!

I think it could be that far away. 2.31 feet of rise=1psi. so 6 feet is 2.6 pounds/in2 of additional pressure. The Stenner can handle that without problem. Flow rates are so low that the length is not likely a problem. My injection point is only 4 feet from my tank but I think your's will work. I wish I had a 30 gallon tank instead of my 15 gallon.

Stenner tech support has told me that the duckbill check is not necessary. However if your Stenner is 6' below the water lever a duckbill check valve would be a backup to siphoning pool water back into the Stenner tank. So you might consider using one.


 
Last edited:

Steve_in_C

Bronze Supporter
Jul 6, 2017
344
Kinston, NC
I'm a Johnny-come-lately to this discussion but I believe my solution for 2019 is a Stenner pump as we have traded in our 18-ft. Intex for a house with a full-on, 18x36 in-ground behemoth. The days of dribbling a quart of LC in front of a return are over! I'm interested in doing more research on the longevity of 6% vs. the more concentrated (thus less to lug around) 12.5%, but I'm wondering if this is a photo of your setup and how far it is from your return line injection site? I have a spot is a basement that is probably six feet below and maybe 25-30 feet away from my pump/filter/return line. Could the whole Stenner setup be that far away from the injection site?



That's me!
Don't forget to consider a SWCG - the easiest solution if it fits your situation.
 

RonsPlc

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
May 31, 2015
812
Gaylesville, AL
I run mine for 20 minutes in the morning, and 20 minutes in the evening... 12 hours apart from each other... I LOVE my Stenner!
 

jonpcar

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2016
423
Gilbert, AZ
I got one for this season, but I think I got a 3 GPD one. Can I buy a 10 GPD head for it??
I just bought a bunch of stenner parts today. The best place I found was this seller on eBay. If you want to run your particular stenner at 10gpd, here is the replacement part you need.


I actually have decided to move from 10gpd to 22gpd and so I bought this one.

Stenner Pump UCCP203 Santoprene Replacement Tube - 2 pk | eBay

I found that 10gpd was a bit slow for my summer chlorine dispersal needs. I have the resolution to control by minute so going to a higher gpd rating doesn’t hinder accuracy. It might for some systems, though.

I bought one of my stenner pumps on eBay last year and it came with the clear tubing...I knew it was not for sunlight but thought I would limp by until I bought some of the black uv resistant tubing. The clear tubing was all shaded...except one little 2” spot...sure enough that’s the spot that broke. Luckily it was on the suction side so it just sucked air and didn’t dump liquid chlorine everywhere.

I also bought some of the in-line flow indicators just to be able to quickly tell if liquid is moving when the stenner pumps are running. Others have indicated that in a 3gpd system, the indicators don’t work well or at all...the flow is too low.

 
Last edited:

jonpcar

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2016
423
Gilbert, AZ
Yes, that is my understanding. The 45xxxx pumps are all the same hardware, except for the tube diameter which determines how much liquid is pushed through the head on each rotation.

Stenner has 5 different tubes for our pump (and for the 85 series). See this chart:

The five different tubes are Tube#1 - Tube#5. There is actually another: Tube#7 that is a high PSI version of Tube#3.

Other stenner pump models (Econ) also have various tube options to change their gpd (tubes have letter designations: A,B, etc). But the Econ series also has different roller assemblies (white/black) that may be swapped in/out for some gpd goals.
 
Last edited:

Steve_in_C

Bronze Supporter
Jul 6, 2017
344
Kinston, NC
I bought my original Stenner set up and tank from Poolweb. After that I bought tubes and Aquashield grease from eBay. Looks like eBay has almost anything you could want for a Stenner pump. I don't use a flowmeter. In the beginning I checked behind the Stenner and it was performing as expected. It gives reliable and repeatable changes in FC based upon the run times I have programmed in the timer. My time for 1ppm change is 60 min and I can run mine 1 hour for each ppm of FC I want to add to pool. This makes it easy. I posted this elsewhere but will include it here again. I went through last years records and plotted the settings for my Stenner. In the first graph, the peaks were manual additions of bleach and the zeros were days the Stenner was cut off. The second graph has those taken out so you can just see the Stenner settings. What might make mine different than others is the solar cover that I use much of the time. Unless the water temp is 88 or above, I leave the solar cover on. This likely cuts back on my chlorine use.
 

Attachments

jonpcar

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2016
423
Gilbert, AZ
Hey Steve, thanks for all your work on this thread! I love data and your graphs are exactly what I am hoping to develop for my system...Looking at your numbers, your cover performs wonders because my pool needs much more chlorine than yours, especially in the summer when the UV breaks it down.

Your +1FC/hr formula is really convenient! I’ve taken a slightly different tact in that I measured exactly how much output flow I was getting with my stenner so that I know precisely how much liquid I am injecting into the pool (oz/min). That number turned out to be substantially different than stenner’s published figure (mine 1.1 oz/min vs published .89oz/min). I wanted to be able to exactly correlate manual additions to stenner additions. It should help if/when I choose to use a liquid chlorine with a different % of chlorine.

Way back earlier in this thread, when I first got my stenner...I mentioned that it shut down (overheated) when I was testing it in the middle of a hot summer day (I also had an ill-advised cover around it at the time). Since then (with additional experience), I have concluded that (for me) there is really no advantage to extending run times for the stenner, as long as I still have the granularity I need to inject precise amounts of chlorine. Now I just want to get the chlorine in the pool quickly...better for the stenner and much better for the wait times for large injections (like your manual injections) if/when those are necessary.

Once I get my system fully up, I also plan on doing some experiments on timing of the chlorine injections, but that’s a little ways out. I haven’t yet hooked up my acid stenner but plan on doing that sometime this summer.

About the flow indicator (not a flowmeter), I probably wouldn’t have considered it without my recent mishap when I thought the stenner was pumping but it actually was dry running because of the crack that had developed in its suction path. In the grand scheme of things for my system (effort and costs, haha), it was an easy choice.
 
Last edited:

Steve_in_C

Bronze Supporter
Jul 6, 2017
344
Kinston, NC
I'm betting that your higher chlorine use is very related to you being in AZ climate. I do read of higher FC consumption in other areas.

And regarding the flow indicator - I have never used one. After just looking at it, I see that it just has 3 "ticks". It is more qualitative indicator of flow than a quantitative indicator. I was incorrect to call it a flow meter since it does not measure flow rates. I will bet that accurate measurement of flow rates would require a single viscocity liquid and Stenner pumps will handle all kinds of liquids. They'd have a hard time making it useful measuring device across the spectrum of liquids that a Stenner will handle.
 
Last edited:

runboy

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2018
146
Mesa/AZ
Yes, chlorine consumption is pretty crazy in AZ. In the heat of the summer, my pool requires 3PPM/day in the winter months where temperature is more comparable to other peoples summer it needs about 0.6PPM/day. Scared me a bit when I initially started doing this in the summer and saw I used 10 Gallons of Chlorine per month :)
Love my Stenner setup. I inject both Chlorine and Acid. I only check my balance about once per week and when temperatures etc. are consistent maybe every 14 days. I do have my setup highly automated though, so I get alerts if something is off (Pump not running, Chlorine/Acid tank running low)
 

CeeElGee78

Member
Sep 19, 2018
24
Battle Creek, MI
Don't forget to consider a SWCG - the easiest solution if it fits your situation.
Yes, I considered that. And if the Stenner this season doesn't necessarily make life easier for me, that'll be my next project. But I inherited a stainless steel Sta-Rite spinning D.E. filter and was told that a saltwater pool would corrode it quickly.
 

jmusits

Active member
May 22, 2019
29
Greenfield Center, NY
I'm a Johnny-come-lately to this discussion but I believe my solution for 2019 is a Stenner pump as we have traded in our 18-ft. Intex for a house with a full-on, 18x36 in-ground behemoth. The days of dribbling a quart of LC in front of a return are over! I'm interested in doing more research on the longevity of 6% vs. the more concentrated (thus less to lug around) 12.5%, but I'm wondering if this is a photo of your setup and how far it is from your return line injection site? I have a spot is a basement that is probably six feet below and maybe 25-30 feet away from my pump/filter/return line. Could the whole Stenner setup be that far away from the injection site?



That's me!
Would one need to be concerned about venting any chlorine gas dissipated from the tank in an enclosed area like a basement?
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
23,624
SouthWest Alabama
Would one need to be concerned about venting any chlorine gas dissipated from the tank in an enclosed area like a basement?
Only very slightly. No more than leaving a bottle of bleach sitting in the laundry room. Even bleach bottle lids are vented. If there's good air circulation in the room I wouldn't worry about it. Don't store MA (muriatic acid) in there though.
 

jmusits

Active member
May 22, 2019
29
Greenfield Center, NY
Only very slightly. No more than leaving a bottle of bleach sitting in the laundry room. Even bleach bottle lids are vented. If there's good air circulation in the room I wouldn't worry about it. Don't store MA (muriatic acid) in there though.
How are the bleach bottles vented? Isn’t there a seal underneath the cap? Or do you mean after they are opened?