Pressure switch (or flow switch) is an interesting idea. Probably over kill, but interesting.Thanks for the info on the stenner pump wring. Those options crossed my mind for feeding the power to the timer, but, lol,, always a but. If say the main pump timer kicks in. Now the stenner timer can come on when it is ready. Here is the but.. One of the windings in the main pump opened which would not cause a short and pop the breaker. Or if possible the impeller screwed up someway ( never had that one yet in 40 years ) . OR a short in the main motor that in enough to stop it but not high enough in current draw to pop the breaker, if ,, just if, one of those happened the chlorine would be pumped into a dead return line. Guess not the end of the world unless you do it every day. SOOOO, what my dream is is to add a pressure switch via a tee on one of my filters pressure gauges. No pump pressure, switch is open. Pressure and switch is closed. Now the stenner can do its thing when its timer wants to. I am using a 24v output timer i had laying around . It feeds a 24V relay coil which when energized closes the contacts and switches the 120v stenner on. I would wire the pressure switch into the 24v line and if not closed the relay will not close. Timer has battery back up but don't want to depend on that.
If accurately knowing your bleach concentration is important to you, Taylor does sell a bleach testing kit that can accurately give you the wt% sodium hypochlorite concentration. It’s based on the starch-iodine analysis method and it’s used by commercial liquid chlorine manufacturers and suppliers for spot testing bleach strength. It’s more accurate than trying to dilute a sample of bleach in water and using the DPD-FAS test.My Stenner pump and my supply of 6% bleach. This is more than I will use for the rest of this season. I don't like to haul bleach. 2 trips a year is all it takes. The good thing is that at lower temps over the winter, the half life should be > 3 years. So it will still be OK to use next year. Just to be sure, I'll do a check on the leftover bleach strength next year.
Runboy, i’ve been watching this thread too, I’ll probably eventually go for a pressure switch so that I can tee it off my stenner injection point. But that 2” flow switch is nice if you are redoing some plumbing (is that in your near future?)...I don’t have any place to insert it in my setup.I did end up ordering a flow switch on Amazon for $31
now I just need to come up with a good solution for wiring it
Yes, I will be doing some Plumbing and adding a second Stenner for Acid injecrion anyway, so a good time to ad a flow switch as well.Runboy, i’ve been watching this thread too, I’ll probably eventually go for a pressure switch so that I can tee it off my stenner injection point. But that 2” flow switch is nice if you are redoing some plumbing (is that in your near future?)...I don’t have any place to insert it in my setup.
That seems pretty safe, a reasonable risk, anyway. Was it this thread or another that discussed the various ways to handle this? Flow switch. Wiring to pump circuit. Using current-sensing relays when the pump is wired to hot all the time, etc. Definitely something to be sorting out for this How To guide, as others will want to know the options available...Stenner offers flow swtiches: Dry Contact Two Wire Flow Switch for PVC or copper pipe installations . Update: this is for 3/4 or 1" plumbing. Most pools have 1.5 or 2" PVC plumbing. So this won't work.
and flow indicator AK600: Miscellaneous parts for Stenner Peristaltic Metering Pumps
Dirk, my 120V outlet feeding my Stenner comes of the pump timer. My Stenner cannot run without the pump timer being on - of course the pump could fail, but unlikely to fail without warning.
Your Stenner has a fan? What Stenner do you have?Does anyone else's Stenner pump run very hot? I had a case around mine initially that included quite a bit of circulation possibilities, including an "exhaust" for the fan that forced it to pull new air into the case and push hot air from the fan out. The fan on my Stenner seems to circulates very little air.
On my first day, I was testing it out in 105 degree weather, and it overheated very quickly and shut off (after 15 minutes, for about 30 minutes). I ended up jettisoning this smaller case and encolosing it with a much larger one that was essentially almost open on the front, bottom, and one side. It hasn't given me any problems, but I also only run it at night (my use model).
In my case, all pump programming is done on the pump itself. So running this of the pool pump timer is out of the question.