Spring Texas, Construction Progress
- Thread starter Sunny daze
- Start date
Aw Man! Just seeing this. Wish I would have thought of that!
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HURRY up guys!
Kim:cat:
Love these emojis!
All done! Next step is to come back, clean up and start to fill the pool! This afternoon or tomorrow! Here's some more photos
I second the surge protector as a must in the South. Lightning took out my first almost new 2-speed pump. Couldn't even be rebuilt-fried the motor. I now have a VS, and do prefer it over the 2-speed.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PRETTY!
So Sunny here you go.................Make sure to show this and talk to your PB but this is our "cheat sheet" for new plaster BUT the PB holds the warranty card so...
Pool School - Start-up New Plaster
Do you have your test kit yet? Let us know which one he gives you and we can help you fill in the blanks if needed or tell you which one to buy if it is "guess" strips.
Here are some things others have found helpful for a new pool owner:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.
You got plastered, You got plastered! SWEET!
Kim:cat:
So Sunny here you go.................Make sure to show this and talk to your PB but this is our "cheat sheet" for new plaster BUT the PB holds the warranty card so...
Pool School - Start-up New Plaster
Do you have your test kit yet? Let us know which one he gives you and we can help you fill in the blanks if needed or tell you which one to buy if it is "guess" strips.
Here are some things others have found helpful for a new pool owner:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.
You got plastered, You got plastered! SWEET!
Kim:cat:
When they come back tomorrow for the acid wash, make sure to go and look for any areas that may still have a bit of "cream" left over. I had a couple spots near my drains that were a bit lighter than the rest. PB came out and put 8 gallons of acid in to help break it down. After a week of brushing twice a day and no swimming due to low PH; it's finally starting to fade out. PB said it would take about 2 weeks, but if the guys with the acid wash would have given it just a little bit of brush...I wouldn't have had to deal with it. See pic below by drains and you'll notice areas I'm talking about. Note: You can see them way better with polarized sun glasses.
I think the PB should HAVE to give each PO with Blue Smurf Pools a REAL Smurf! LOL
Kim:cat:
Kim:cat:
Thank you! Looking forward to seeing it with water!
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Thank you all! I am very excited.
Kim, Good idea about the Blue Smurf! I need to find one to be a mascot for the pool! Also, thank you so much for the links to all of these great resources! I've been making my way through the Pool School section of the website. I am so happy I found this site. Going to sign up to be a supporter. I've asked my PB what test kit I'll receive and he can't remember the name of it. As soon I get it, I'll share it for advice on this forum. If need be I'll buy a better one.
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When they come back tomorrow for the acid wash, make sure to go and look for any areas that may still have a bit of "cream" left over. I had a couple spots near my drains that were a bit lighter than the rest. PB came out and put 8 gallons of acid in to help break it down. After a week of brushing twice a day and no swimming due to low PH; it's finally starting to fade out. PB said it would take about 2 weeks, but if the guys with the acid wash would have given it just a little bit of brush...I wouldn't have had to deal with it. See pic below by drains and you'll notice areas I'm talking about. Note: You can see them way better with polarized sun glasses.
Thanks for this advice Tucker. I never would have thought of that. I can already see some thicker application of the the blue stuff near the drains in the deep end. I'll take a real close look tomorrow to make sure they clear the blue stuff off as much as possible. I really love the color of your pool! Very good choice!
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I am glad your brought this back up Greg! I need to re-ask my pool builder about it! I'd hate to have to unnecessarily replace the pump!
Clean up done! Filling up with a little help from mother nature!
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Also, I noticed that my drain covers pop up a bit above the surface of the pool. Is that normal? I thought they'd be more flush. I'll ask my PB.
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Today marks 3 weeks since we broke ground! :smurf:
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Also, I noticed that my drain covers pop up a bit above the surface of the pool. Is that normal? I thought they'd be more flush. I'll ask my PB.
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Today marks 3 weeks since we broke ground! :smurf:
Wow! 3 weeks! Say a prayer my PB can be that quick! We're scheduled to dig on May 30th.
Congratulations on getting plastered!!
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Congratulations on getting plastered!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sunny, those drains look normal to me. They are not flush with the plaster. I THINK that is to help prevent entrapment due to suction.
LOL on the mascot!
When you go to put the hoses in wrap cloths around the ends of the hoses. This will help filter and keep the metal form messing up your pretty new plaster.
You can also tape or ziptie empty coke bottles to the hoses so they will float as well.
Kim:cat:
LOL on the mascot!
When you go to put the hoses in wrap cloths around the ends of the hoses. This will help filter and keep the metal form messing up your pretty new plaster.
You can also tape or ziptie empty coke bottles to the hoses so they will float as well.
Kim:cat:
Water fill is complete! So the pool started out like this:
My PB showed up and got it to look like this
Here are my systems
Wow, the 2hp pump is way louder than the VS pump. Makes me wonder if I shouldn't have selected a quieter water feature pump. It does seem to provide great power to the waterfall.
Confusion with what my builder says/does with starting the pool
On my pebble sheen instructions, it states do not chlorinate your pool until water is filtered and pH and CA are within acceptable range. I am not sure that my builder waited for the water to be filtered. He came yesterday and said he shocked the pool. I was surprised because I believe I read here that you shouldn't Shock the pool for the first 30 days. Also, he said there is no need for me to brush the pebble sheen as instructed on the pebble sheen paperwork as well. I went a head and brushed it yesterday anyway. He did get the pump running on speed 2 at 1800 RPM. However, this morning the pump isn't running at all. I thought it would need to run continuously. He also said he programmed the polaris to run this morning. I thought I also read somewhere to wait before using a cleaner on new plaster. Either way. I am worried. I don't want to question him...he should know how to start a pool. Should I be overly concerned about these approaches to starting the pool?
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Oh, also, he said we could get in the pool after 24 hours! I thought the break in period was longer than that!!
My PB showed up and got it to look like this
Here are my systems
Wow, the 2hp pump is way louder than the VS pump. Makes me wonder if I shouldn't have selected a quieter water feature pump. It does seem to provide great power to the waterfall. Confusion with what my builder says/does with starting the pool
On my pebble sheen instructions, it states do not chlorinate your pool until water is filtered and pH and CA are within acceptable range. I am not sure that my builder waited for the water to be filtered. He came yesterday and said he shocked the pool. I was surprised because I believe I read here that you shouldn't Shock the pool for the first 30 days. Also, he said there is no need for me to brush the pebble sheen as instructed on the pebble sheen paperwork as well. I went a head and brushed it yesterday anyway. He did get the pump running on speed 2 at 1800 RPM. However, this morning the pump isn't running at all. I thought it would need to run continuously. He also said he programmed the polaris to run this morning. I thought I also read somewhere to wait before using a cleaner on new plaster. Either way. I am worried. I don't want to question him...he should know how to start a pool. Should I be overly concerned about these approaches to starting the pool?
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Oh, also, he said we could get in the pool after 24 hours! I thought the break in period was longer than that!!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's a great looking pool you have there. I think a lot of your concerns stem from the TFP Pool School - Start-up New Plaster page. Feel free to review it as "FYI" for now, although you still want to follow your PB's recommendation for the warranty. In regards to the FC, TFP says we prefer not to SLAM during the break-in period. I wouldn't use the Polaris at this time either. While we typically discourage tablets/pucks, you can use the in-line chlorinator for now to help with steady FC. Since the tabs are acidic, they will also help to keep the pH from rising quite as fast. Later though, don't forget to remove them and switch to regular bleach (HEBs Bravo or Wal-Mart's Great Value). In the end, many PBs don't get all wrapped-up in chemistry and testing water like you will. They just build the pool then dump some standard amount of products their company or industry has typically done for ages. Doesn't mean it's right, just how they've always done it. If you have the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006, then you can monitor it properly from now on. Please include which test kit you have in your signature as well. 
That's a great looking pool you have there. I think a lot of your concerns stem from the TFP Pool School - Start-up New Plaster page. Feel free to review it as "FYI" for now, although you still want to follow your PB's recommendation for the warranty. In regards to the FC, TFP says we prefer not to SLAM during the break-in period. I wouldn't use the Polaris at this time either. While we typically discourage tablets/pucks, you can use the in-line chlorinator for now to help with steady FC. Since the tabs are acidic, they will also help to keep the pH from rising quite as fast. Later though, don't forget to remove them and switch to regular bleach (HEBs Bravo or Wal-Mart's Great Value). In the end, many PBs don't get all wrapped-up in chemistry and testing water like you will. They just build the pool then dump some standard amount of products their company or industry has typically done for ages. Doesn't mean it's right, just how they've always done it. If you have the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006, then you can monitor it properly from now on. Please include which test kit you have in your signature as well.
You are right...I had read that info and surprised that his approach was so different! Thank you for the assurance, I figure, I'll go ahead and do things his way until I figure it out myself. I am still waiting for him to tell me which test kit I'll receive. I get pool school'd next week; I should receive it then. I am thinking I'll need to go ahead and order the TF-100 anyway. He is giving me a supply of the chlorine tablets. I plan to use them up then make the switch.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I can just about guarantee you'll need the TF-100. He'll probably give you a smaller Taylor-type kit that tests low levels of FC, pH, TA, and CH ... maybe a little CYA if you're lucky. My installer gave me test strips. Ugh. Make sure when you order the TF-100 you also include the "Speed Stir" with your order. That small mixing device is a lifesaver.
One of the most important things you need to test as soon as possible .... CYA. CYA is the foundation for your proper FC level - no matter what you hear from your PB or pool store. Get familiar with the Poolmath Calculator (link below and on home page). Enter your 18K pool size, then all the other parameters. Near the bottom look for "Effects of adding chemicals", and select your tri-chlor or di-chlor tablets. You'll see how each dissolved tablet not only increases FC (which is fine), but also increases CYA (which may NOT be fine). You have to watch that carefully. I would suggest not letting your CYA get any higher than 50 until you are sure you know your pool's chemistry. The tabs will be safe in a cool, dry place after that. If you have any other concerns, just let us know.
One of the most important things you need to test as soon as possible .... CYA. CYA is the foundation for your proper FC level - no matter what you hear from your PB or pool store. Get familiar with the Poolmath Calculator (link below and on home page). Enter your 18K pool size, then all the other parameters. Near the bottom look for "Effects of adding chemicals", and select your tri-chlor or di-chlor tablets. You'll see how each dissolved tablet not only increases FC (which is fine), but also increases CYA (which may NOT be fine). You have to watch that carefully. I would suggest not letting your CYA get any higher than 50 until you are sure you know your pool's chemistry. The tabs will be safe in a cool, dry place after that. If you have any other concerns, just let us know.
Thank you for this insight and advice. I have saved it for immediate reference as I get started. I also found my test kit along with my start up supplies. It's a Pentair test kit. Any opinions on this?
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My girls got in the pool yesterday! Still way too cold for me. Haven't checked the chemicals myself yet...