Spa draining into pool

[proavia]

You are in good hands with @ajw22
Keep asking questions and you will more comfortable with your pool and its operation in no time.

In the pic in post #42, there appears to be a number of PVC pipes on the left side that run vertically. Any idea what those pipes are for?

Also, post a pic of the outside and inside of your automation panel and any other electrical panel in the vicinity of your pool equipment.

As to your infloor issues.... have you located your infloor water valve? It is probably located somewhere between the equipment and pool - possibly closer to the pool deck. Something similar to this:

Paramount Water Valves Parts - INYOPools.com

Paramount Water Valves - INYOpools.com has the largest selection of swimming pool and spa replacement parts with over 70,000 parts in stock. Order today and save!

www.inyopools.com

The following links may help you better understand the Paramount infloor system.
Owners manual:

https://www.1paramount.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/041715HomeOwnersManual.pdf

FAQs and troubleshooting

Water Valve - FAQ - Paramount Pool & Spa Systems

Water valve for in-floor cleaning systems for pools FAQ.

www.1paramount.com

 

[soranen]

Chemicals from service company and filter pressure below.

 

[soranen]

I read the area about removing the minerals. I don't have the original blank (that I can find). Can you clarify how to get that Fusion unit to the desired state while I wait on the cell and cord? thx

 

[soranen]

adding more requested pics; panel, floor piping and Salt cell. I disconnected the power cord from the Fusion2 to stop the arcing as it was very near the gas line. circled in the image 2nd image

 

[proavia]

Pic #3 is your water valve.
When it is in use, what is its pressure gauge reading?
Are all Jandy valves coming out the bottom of the water valve open?

By chance, is your equipment below the water level of your pool?
Is the concrete wall a part of the pool structure?

 

[soranen]

When it is in use, what is its pressure gauge reading? 20 psi? See pic. In the clean state, water leaks from the Fusion2 salt sensor gasket due to pressure.
Are all Jandy valves coming out the bottom of the water valve open? Yes
By chance, is your equipment below the water level of your pool? Yes. Lowest (deepest) area of pool is several feet above the equipment pad. The largest pool deck covers/shades the equipment pod.
Is the concrete wall a part of the pool structure? Yes. That's the West end and deepest area of pool. Directly overhead is the pool deck.

 

[proavia]

When it is in use, what is its pressure gauge reading? 20 psi? See pic. In the clean state, water leaks from the Fusion2 salt sensor gasket due to pressure.
Are all Jandy valves coming out the bottom of the water valve open? Yes
By chance, is your equipment below the water level of your pool? Yes. Lowest (deepest) area of pool is several feet above the equipment pad. The largest pool deck covers/shades the equipment pod.
Is the concrete wall a part of the pool structure? Yes. That's the West end and deepest area of pool. Directly overhead is the pool deck.

Thanks for those responses. They will help us moving forward while addressing your issues. Please add a short statement to your signature stating the equipment is below the pool water level.

The 20psi is the recommended pressure I believe. Quite possible, some of the water valve internals may be jammed or broken. Additionally, some of the pop-ups may have dirt/debris in them or just worn out. Here is where your hands on investigation will help figure out what is wrong and if it's actually worth fixing it.

Do you have the tool to remove the pop-ups from the pool? If so, you can remove one or two that are stuck up and clean them to see if they extend/retract.

You can also take the top off the water valve to see if anything inside is jammed or broken - *** CAUTION *** - close ALL Jandy valves at the water valve and the one Jandy valve at the equipment pad to prevent water gushing out of the water valve.

If you choose to look at those two items, let us know what you find. And take pics to post here of your findings. Use the links I posted in post #61 for "inspiration".

 

[soranen]

Thanks Gene! I don't have the tool for the head removal but see them on Amazon.
The salt cell and cord should arrive Thursday and the test kit tomorrow. Pressing are the chemical levels and salt cell plus the hope that the water flows as it should.

 

[ajw22]

I read the area about removing the minerals. I don't have the original blank (that I can find). Can you clarify how to get that Fusion unit to the desired state while I wait on the cell and cord? thx

@PoolGate can you help with this Jandy Fusion cell and how best to get rid of the minerals?

 

[PoolGate]

You can take any cartridge and just cut or remove the top portion. It should clip out but if you need to just cut it. The top portion is all you need.

FYI: It looks to me like that "mineral" cartridge is just the blankout plate anyway. The actual mineral cartridges have either a yellow or orange top. If it hasn't been used in awhile, you could probably just use the old one I doubt it would have any "minerals" (metal) left in it anyway.

 

[soranen]

Thanks. It may never have had a mineral cartridge since it's gray/silver.

 

[soranen]

I found some test strips in the garage and got some of these readings today. My color # estimates IMHO:
TH 1000 (High)
TC/TB 3-4
FC 1
pH 7.6
TA 240 (High)
CA 100
I'll take a sample to the pool store tonight and also get my kit tomorrow for compare.

 

[mknauss]

I'll take a sample to the pool store tonight and also get my kit tomorrow for compare.

No reason to for us. We only provide guidance based on you doing your own testing via your own proper test kit.

Wait to get your test kit.

 

[soranen]

I got my kit but did not know the salt kit was separate. I've ordered one. Testing so far:

FC. 1.8
CC. 0
pH >8
TA 225
CH 0? Pink; could not turn blue
CYA. 100+? Black dot disappeared before a number on the chart
SALT. Kit on order
CSI. Pool Math says look good without a salt reading.
WATER TEMP. 88

 

[mknauss]

Great.
I suspect you need to do a very large drain/exchange. The CH is most likely very high if it would not turn blue. Try using a 1:1 sample of pool water and distilled water and do the CH test again.
The CYA is also very high.

Are you ready to drain/exchange the pool volume?

 

[soranen]

Are you ready to drain/exchange the pool volume? Do you mean drain the pool and refill? Define large.

 

[mknauss]

Define large.

Depending on CH, the entire pool volume.

 

[soranen]

OK. I get water from a well that does not pass through my salt softener. The well water here in TX is very "hard." I will likely be filling with water that will need work. Should I test the CH out of the spigot as well?

 

[mknauss]

Should I test the CH out of the spigot as well?

yes. If the fill water is very high in CH, that changes the path forward.

 

[soranen]

Ps. I re-did the CH test using the high CH math and added 28 drops to get to blue. SO CH is 700