My pool wall looks like this. Concerned about longevity. I only have a 3 year warranty. Is this normal or acceptable? Any feedback is greatly appreciated!!
Thank you
Thank you
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,460
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Attachments
- May 23, 2015
- 24,629
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don’t understand the construction - is that supposed to be a negative edge pool where water flows over the back wall into a trough?
Also, the back wall thickness doesn't look right - in the pictures where you have the plywood forms and the plumbing, it appears as though there are PVC pipes running right up against the plywood which would leave near zero thickness between the buried pipes and the back surface of the wall.
Can you confirm how thick the wall is?
And finally, as a matter of aesthetics, the gunite (concrete) wall should be properly finished and not left as bare exposed concrete. The entire length of that wall from several inches below the soil all the way up to the top should have a moisture barrier material applied like HydroBan and then some kind of finishing material - either stucco, or tile, or stone fascia. Leaving bare concrete with no water barrier will cause the concrete to absorb water from rain and ground water and then you will get very ugly patches of efflorescence (the white patchy stuff) all over the wall. Eventually mold and moss will grow on the wall.
In my opinion, that wall is not only not finished, but not very well constructed if the thicknesses and plumbing layouts are as bad as I think they appear to be ... sorry, not trying to be negative or scare you, but I would have not accepted that as a final build. I realize you're building on a slope which makes it very tricky to put a pool in but an exposed pool wall needs a lot more attention to detail than a pool wall that is buried in the ground with earth all around it.
Also, the back wall thickness doesn't look right - in the pictures where you have the plywood forms and the plumbing, it appears as though there are PVC pipes running right up against the plywood which would leave near zero thickness between the buried pipes and the back surface of the wall.
Can you confirm how thick the wall is?
And finally, as a matter of aesthetics, the gunite (concrete) wall should be properly finished and not left as bare exposed concrete. The entire length of that wall from several inches below the soil all the way up to the top should have a moisture barrier material applied like HydroBan and then some kind of finishing material - either stucco, or tile, or stone fascia. Leaving bare concrete with no water barrier will cause the concrete to absorb water from rain and ground water and then you will get very ugly patches of efflorescence (the white patchy stuff) all over the wall. Eventually mold and moss will grow on the wall.
In my opinion, that wall is not only not finished, but not very well constructed if the thicknesses and plumbing layouts are as bad as I think they appear to be ... sorry, not trying to be negative or scare you, but I would have not accepted that as a final build. I realize you're building on a slope which makes it very tricky to put a pool in but an exposed pool wall needs a lot more attention to detail than a pool wall that is buried in the ground with earth all around it.
Last edited:
Oona
Well-known member
I am currently in the middle of my build and have a faux infinity edge-basically the edge is a reverse 45 degree angle and the water doesn’t overflow and just comes to the top giving it the look of an infinity edge.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. The back is a reverse edge with no catch basin. The water is not usually quite that high. I see what you are saying the plumbing is right against the outer edge, so I am assuming normal condensation around the pipe will cause water to weep out due to no real barrier. I assume that is what is happening here? They did leak a test and there was no leak. The wall originally did not touch the ground in most places and frogs were starting to live so they brought in fill to cover the bottom. If they were to Hydro Ban and finish this wall as is, and then paint over it what would be the risk there? Other wise to fix this I assume that means a lot rework. Is my wall going to crumble over time much more rapidly due to the poor construction? Or is it more of just an eyesore meaning more frequent maintenance etc. Thanks so much for you advice, I really appreciate it.
TampaKathy
Gold Supporter
What are they going to do to finish around the spa? Looks like there's exposed gunite there too (?).
- May 23, 2015
- 24,629
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I think at the very least you need to finish that back wall. Some options would be waterproofing membrane and stucco OR waterproofing and tile OR waterproofing and stone fascia. Tile and stone would be the more expensive options but they would tie in better with the overall design. Plaster is fine too but it will be a solid wall of color and so you’d probably want to plant shrubs or some kind of landscaping back there.
The fact of the matter is, the cement used for gunite is NOT waterproof. So it will absorb and weep water. The pipes that are close to the surface will definitely increase the chance of condensation build up. Also, because the gunite is not waterproof, your rebar is in danger of rusting and that is a major structural issue. That is another reason why the surface need to be sealed.
As far as the design goes, I understand the aesthetic appeal of the knife edge look on a raised wall so that’s a matter of personal choice. Nothing wrong with it. However, with my engineering eye on the design, I would have designed that back wall a little differently with buttresses behind the raised sheer descents to accommodate the piping and allow for more thickness to the wall. Clearly since your PB built it that way, they must be comfortable enough with the design as-is. Again, nothing wrong with that.
I do not understand the reverse infinity edge with no spillway? ,, if these pools are going to be filled to the top of the angle it seems like the pool water spillover will be
a problem ?
the 3 year warranty is a concern, but I am unsure what remediation you can get on a "potential" issue at this stage ?
Yesterday IO was thinking about what I would do if it was my pool, I would probably do as Joyfull noise suggested in one of his ideas and waterproof the exterior wall and I would put a larger top stone on the upper ledge of a stone veneer . so when pool water spills over it will pour off the top layer onto the ground and not cascade down the veneer
the other raised areas I would waterproof mortar and sand wash stucco over / paint
keep us posted
a problem ?
the 3 year warranty is a concern, but I am unsure what remediation you can get on a "potential" issue at this stage ?
Yesterday IO was thinking about what I would do if it was my pool, I would probably do as Joyfull noise suggested in one of his ideas and waterproof the exterior wall and I would put a larger top stone on the upper ledge of a stone veneer . so when pool water spills over it will pour off the top layer onto the ground and not cascade down the veneer
the other raised areas I would waterproof mortar and sand wash stucco over / paint
keep us posted
Thank you very much I will ask the PB to seal this up properly, thank you again.
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