Should I abandon my Inline Chlorinator

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Newdude said:
Stick around. We will have 100s of these exact scenerio in the spring. MY FC is *spot on* at 3 and I shouldn't have algae. The pool store says my 175 CYA is in range. So why do I have a swamp ?

You sir/madam, are a quick learner. So Bravo. (y)

You can help us with the difficult struggle of making them realize they have gotten terrible advice, without hurting their pride/ego, *before* they've learned to trust us. It's fun to say the least.
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Well now i cant wait for the summer in more than one way! I was worried pool maintenance was going to be a chore but its actually becoming something very interesting and something im taking and strange but overwhelming pride in haha. Thanks for all the help and look forward to learning from and contributing to all the great conversation here.
 
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HermanTX said:
Throughout the summer of 2021 I left for several 7-20 day excursions. I increased my FC using LC to near "SLAM" level for my CYA level and then added 3-5 pucks to a floater that stayed in the pool. This worked out fine. I did have a neighbor help one time when I extended an excursion who added some additional LC for me to "just to be safe" until I got back home. So, use of LC and using pucks (as needed) does help get through extended periods away from the pool.

A SWCG is still in my future, just contemplating which one, the availability and overall cost. Right now, I use LC from Pinch A Penny and Home Depot which seem to have continuous supply.
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Great to hear! Are SWCGs difficult to find right now?
 
Newdude said:
^^^^^^^ there is TONS of that too. PB leaves the customer who does not pay attention to the pool thinking its 'set it and forget it' And let's be honest. We all get lazy at times also. Lol.
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Additional question and I think i know the consensus answer from this group but i'll ask anyway. In the winter/cold months when there is no swimming taking place, can I get away with adding LC every few days with adding enough to pump up my FC level to the high end to last me for a few days. I know during the Summer months ill be out there almost everyday and be more invested, but on the chance that this does start to become a chore or i have to leave it to my wife for a bit, is it acceptable to operate maintenance this way? Or should you really be checking every single day and adding enough to offset the lost FC for that day?
 
Learn your pool. If its telling you that your half-slam (or even full SLAM) is lasting weeks, great, so long as the weather is consistant. If you get a warm spell, pay closer attention while it lasts.
 
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It appeared SWGs were available from several sources today when i checked pricing for anothe member before.
 
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+1. In the north half of the country, its somewhere in between paying the Xmas credit card bill time and budgeting for the super bowl party time. Very few are thinking of and snatching up pool equipment. Pre supply shortages there was always a good sale in March or April but i wouldn't bet on them returning this year.
 
Looks like Discount salt pool.com still has the $1 upgrade going on w/ the larger circupool models but being as the op has a small pool & could do with a 20-30k rated cell he may not need/want to go with one of those. Around $900 ought to offer plenty of fc production.
 
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jlamb5990 said:
Great to hear! Are SWCGs difficult to find right now?
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I think others have provided a broad view on availability. So it just depends on what you want and price you are willing to pay.
You have a Pentair Easy Touch automation - so one idea is to consider a unit from Pentair to integrate with your automation. If you go 3rd party such as CircuPool SWCG which will not integrate to your current automation.
Also, you state to have a 10k gal pool so get a SWCG rated 2x your volume so if you consider Pentair it would be the IntelliChlor IC 20
 
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HermanTX said:
I think others have provided a broad view on availability. So it just depends on what you want and price you are willing to pay.
You have a Pentair Easy Touch automation - so one idea is to consider a unit from Pentair to integrate with your automation. If you go 3rd party such as CircuPool SWCG which will not integrate to your current automation.
Also, you state to have a 10k gal pool so get a SWCG rated 2x your volume so if you consider Pentair it would be the IntelliChlor IC 20
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Good to know! Ya im a big fan of automation and having everything work together. Obviously its not a deal breaker, but if the Intellichlor IC20 is a solid product, i would definitely go that route. Thanks for the recommendation!
 
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Newdude said:
🙋‍♂️

*nominates self as proof that any idiot can EASILY learn basic pool chemistry.

Be forewarned when the kit comes, it overwhelms alot of folks with the simplest of instructions when read line by line. Glance at the sheet as a whole and it might as well be rocket science. I documented my actual experience (link below) after the fact to help others in the same shoes. The tests are stupid easy. Don't let yourself make them difficult.

So you are new to testing

Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls, AH-64 Apache attack helicopters…… It’s that time of year again with an influx of newbs either getting a late start or coming to us trying to undo what hasn’t been working. First of all, I’d like to welcome you all. You’re gonna love it here. We will...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Just got my test kit in and I’m a bit confused. I ordered the Taylor 2006c and the kit I got says it is on the box and has all the extra bottles that come with but the tube with the color match test tube looks like it’s missing anything to read FC and and TC. Am I missing something. Pictures attached. Thanks!
 

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jlamb5990 said:
Just got my test kit in and I’m a bit confused. I ordered the Taylor 2006c and the kit I got says it is on the box and has all the extra bottles that come with but the tube with the color match test tube looks like it’s missing anything to read FC and and TC. Am I missing something. Pictures attached. Thanks!
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You test FC and CC using the FAS/DPD chlorine test with R-0870 powder and R-0871 and R-0003 reagent.

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Newdude said:
🙋‍♂️

*nominates self as proof that any idiot can EASILY learn basic pool chemistry.

Be forewarned when the kit comes, it overwhelms alot of folks with the simplest of instructions when read line by line. Glance at the sheet as a whole and it might as well be rocket science. I documented my actual experience (link below) after the fact to help others in the same shoes. The tests are stupid easy. Don't let yourself make them difficult.

So you are new to testing

Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls, AH-64 Apache attack helicopters…… It’s that time of year again with an influx of newbs either getting a late start or coming to us trying to undo what hasn’t been working. First of all, I’d like to welcome you all. You’re gonna love it here. We will...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Alright so here is the moment Ive been waiting for...I think I did all correct and i did the CYA test twice to be sure...


FC 8
CC .5
PH 7.8-7.9
TA 70
CH 400-410
CYA 60!!! :cry:
 
Looking good. The 60 CYA isnt aweful for LA. The spring rains will dillute that some along with a 5 or so ppm burnoff each month. Everything else is looking good for now.

Easy peasy, right ?
 
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mknauss said:
Test your fill water CH and TA. That level of CH in your pool already is odd.
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We added some calcium increaser to the pool about a week ago per the pools stores recommendations. (this was before i met all of you and did not know better than to take their advice at face value) Could that be where the higher level is from?
 
Newdude said:
Looking good. The 60 CYA isnt aweful for LA. The spring rains will dillute that some along with a 5 or so ppm burnoff each month. Everything else is looking good for now.

Easy peasy, right ?
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Well thats a relief about the CYA...Just have to keep my FC around 8 and should be good right? Should there be any concern about a CC level that is not closer to 0? Ive read some stuff about how FC and TC should really be close to the same number (making the CC 0). Is .5 on the CC number not that big of a deal? Or is there something to do to get it to 0?
 

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