Several issues, but most alarming is electric current in pool

bownut

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May 7, 2016
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Fayetteville
I think the backstory is important here because it might answer a few questions. Last year we had our vinyl liner replaced and had lights installed in our pool for the first time. Our house was a foreclosure and the lights were one of the items that disappeared before we bought. I had noticed that the deep end niche had some very small cracks and mentioned this to the pool guy. He said if the pool ends up leaking water then it will probably be the result of that niche leaking, although the pool was not leaking before and we had nothing covering the niche. He said he sealed the niche and then he installed the lights and we have a dedicated GFCI for the light.

I noticed the pool was losing water, but realized that I had not seated the clamp (not sure what it is called) on the cartridge filter properly and I was losing water there. Sometime between last season and this season, my husband reseated it and it the filter stopped leaking, but the pool did not and I know I am losing water because I am having to replenish salt. Fast forward to two three weeks ago, my kids coming screeching in the house and say there is an electrical current in the pool. I do not know how they discovered this but if you stand in the water and touch your tongue to the metal handrail or ladder (seriously, I have no clue how they came to figure this out) you can detect about the same level of current as you do licking a 9V battery. We turned off every breaker in the house--we have four panels--and the mains and you could still detect a current in the pool. I called the pool guy three times over the course of a week and half and finally asked my husband to call him. I add that because it might help you understand why I am working to fix this myself. He finally called me and told me he thought the niche was leaking, and he mentioned for the first time that this was from a bad batch of niches. He told me to mark the water level every 24 hours for two days with and without the pump running to eliminate something having to do with equipment. There was no change, I am losing about 3/16-1/4" of water a day. While draining the pool, I would stop draining and wait 24 hours marking the amount of water that was leaking out. It was always the same even when the water level was right at the very bottom of the silver part of the light cover. Ultimately the pool guy asked me to lower the water level to six inches in the shallow end so he could come out and look at the lights. I did all that and called the pool guy, but did not receive an answer or a call back. I lowered the water to below the lights because I have two issues, the leaking pool and the electrical current.

I was going to have a reading today on the leak, but I don't because it rained like cats and dogs last night so I had to reset my level this morning. However, there is still an electrical current in the pool, but it seems weaker than it was before. The water is not touching anything but liner and the floor drains. This tells me I might still have a leak somewhere in the pool that doesn't involve the lights. I am basing that on the idea of the LeakTrac system where they put a current in the pool and the ground in the yard to complete the circuit, and then electricity "leaks" out of the hole to the pool. The pool guy says he has no idea. One electrician I talked to said the pool isn't bonded, but it is however the grounding wire is not connected to the pump. I finally found the grounding wire that is supposed to be attached to the pump, but it is not attached and is 1" too short to attach it. This is likely because the original pump was also one of the items missing when we bought the house.

Lastly, the seam between two wall panels (that is behind the vinyl liner) is cover with what looks like duct tape. It has failed and water that goes into the ground is coming through that seam and leaving sand between the liner and the wall. When the pool was full this made it appear as if the wall had cracked. I pulled the liner back and did see that it is erosion.

No one has been in the pool since the discover of the current except me and I know I am taking a big risk. My electrician won't be back for another week and then it is going to take us probably another week to get on his schedule.

So, in summary, my issues are:

1. Possibly leaking niches... Can I use some sort of sealant to seal the niches if they are in fact leaking? And since there is still an electrical current does that mean there is still a hole in the liner?
2. Any ideas on the electrical current?
3. On the erosion and the seams, do I just remove the old tape, clean the walls, and apply new tape?

I appreciate any and all help. I am headed to a dental appointment but will be back to answer any questions. I thank all in advance for their help.
 
Is your pool bonded?? When you added these lights, did you add them to the bonding wire around the pool??

Bonding and grounding are two different things. Please do not use the pool. This needs to be addressed by a competent electrician familiar with pool bonding.

Maddie :flower:
 
So that was a lot to read! Whew, but I made it through it. :)

Lets tackle the bonding issue first.
1) You say that you found the bond wire at the pump but it's a little short. Did you add a piece of wire to it and connect it to the pump bonding lug?
2) Are you fairly sure that the rest of the pool is bonded?
3) Is there a water bond in the skimmer or in the plumbing anywhere that you can tell?
 
I suspect that the kids probably noticed the electricity from a cut or scratch.

Current is usually very noticeable at a cut or scratch.

The current might be from some sort of underground electrical cable that is making contact with the ground water and electricity is transferring to the pool.

You should not allow swimming until the current is figured out.

It might be something obvious to an electrician, but it might also be extremely difficult to diagnose.

You can use a multimeter to check for ac and dc voltage to see what that shows.
 
Thank you for getting through it all.

1) You say that you found the bond wire at the pump but it's a little short. Did you add a piece of wire to it and connect it to the pump bonding lug?
No, I have not but I can. What kind of wire do I need?
2) Are you fairly sure that the rest of the pool is bonded?
I don't know. The pool guy is the one who built the pool, 11 years ago maybe. I haven't been able to get in touch with him to ask. I have only found the bonding wire near the pump.
3) Is there a water bond in the skimmer or in the plumbing anywhere that you can tell?
I've looked online to see if I know what to look for, but I cannot determine what I am looking for.
 
I suspect that the kids probably noticed the electricity from a cut or scratch.

Current is usually very noticeable at a cut or scratch.

The current might be from some sort of underground electrical cable that is making contact with the ground water and electricity is transferring to the pool.

You should not allow swimming until the current is figured out.

It might be something obvious to an electrician, but it might also be extremely difficult to diagnose.

You can use a multimeter to check for ac and dc voltage to see what that shows.
Yes! That is what my daughter said that all her scratches were stinging! I blew it off thinking they were just fresh and the water caused the stinging.
 
You can find #8 gauge bare copper wire at Lowe's (by the foot)
Then get a copper split bolt (they have those also) to join the two wires together.

Make sure you clean the old wire end to shiny new copper AND the inside of the bonding lug on the pump motor - can you post a photo of it?
before attaching the extension to ensure a good clean connection.

This you can do, but definitely get the electrician to check everything out.
 
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Get the wire that borjis mentioned and the connector and connect it to the pump.

Most likely the builder relied on the light niche(s) as the water bond, so you may have to look in the junction box(es) to see if there's a bond wire connected to the bond loop. The original builder may be able to tell you what their practice was when it was built.

You may be able to check with the city and see if they have records of the inspections they did at that time. They may have a record of the electrical inspections.
 

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The fact that you turned off all the breakers and still have a current is strange.

In pool bonding that kind of problem is still possible to have. The breakers off don't always result in the problem going away.
Most often in those cases, it is an issue with the power company. The source of the problem could even be emanating from a neighbor's property.
I know of at least one other tfp person that had this issue too.
 
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The breakers only kill the hot wires based on a perfectly working circuit. Its not common but you could be sending current down the nuetral leg if you had a short somwhere else in the house.
 
You can pull the main breaker in the main panel to determine if the current is coming from somewhere in the house or external.
 
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Here is a pic of the connection on the pump. Thank you for the information. I will get those items.

Excellent. And there it is.
I'd spray a little wd-40 on that and let it sit for awhile before unscrewing. (mine was rusted like that too)
Then carefully unscrew that grub screw a few turns, clean it and the rest of the bond
lug so it is shiny clean copper metal (I used a strip of 3m scruffy pad pulled through like floss to clean mine),
before inserting the wire. And do what JamesW suggested,
checking the bond wire for any ac or dc current just to be safe, before you attach it to the lug.

Once the bonding wire is secured and tight in the lug, spray just a little spritz of wd 40 on it
again to help keep it from rusting sooner.
 
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Here is an update. I am headed to get the wire this morning to hook up the ground wire to the pump. When I get back I will be checking for the bonding wire in the light niche and checking for current on the ground wire at the pump before reattaching it.

When I got out our multimeter I decided to check the current in the pool. The red lead is in the water and the black lead is on the handrail. It is DC, I had the meter as you can see on 200m V---. I added three pictures because I don't get a single number, it moves constantly within the 70s, but sometimes jumps much higher or much lower. I didn't get any reading on the AC side. Does it say anything that the current is DC? Additionally, wouldn't having a current in the pool indicate there is still a leak somewhere in the liner because the pool water is only touching liner at this point (the water level is below the lights, the ladder, handrails, skimmers, seats, and stairs)?

I think there is still water loss, but VERY LITTLE. I am going to measure it again but more carefully over the next day.
 

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Your SWG controller probably puts out DC. Among other possible things. I just has a blown fuse on my IC60. The controller was 240V AC in and it converted it to 39V DC out. Mine is Pentair but they probably use something similar. Still weird though with the breakers off, but DC should be easier to track down.
 
You could have some current leakage, but it could also just be ground potential.
Once you make sure the light niche is bonded and hook up the loop to the pump hopefully you'll see the current go to zero (or essentially zero). If the niches aren't bonded you can add a water bond and that'll take care of it.
 
This article may help you test your bonding grid. Note it says an analog multimeter is required.

 

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