- Jan 28, 2021
- 165
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
River Pools C40 Fiberglass Pool Installation - [Gore, Virginia]
- Thread starter xpnsvtoys
- Start date
Good luck with this project and hope you get some use this summer. We had a RP I30 installed Labor Day last year. Installation seemed to go fine, it was lining up the other trades for everything else that took us awhile. We just finished in time for high 90s temps this weekend. Here are some pics from when we were about where you are in case it helps.
Attachments
Now that we have some water in the pool I'm concerned it'll go south before I get my equipment hooked up. I've considered putting my submersible pump in the deep end and pumping water to the shallow end to keep the water moving a bit...Should I add any chlorine or take any other steps to try and preserve the clarity of the water?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Get some CYA dissolving and keep the FC at 3-5 ppm.
Don’t worry about circulating the water. Just brush the pool to stir the water around.
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We've got about 12k gallons in now. Should I just dissolve the CYA in a 5 gal bucket then brush around?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That will work.
Folks say stabilizer dissolves better in hot water although I never tried it.
CYA is a mild acid so brush it around and don’t let it sit on the pool floor.
Equipment pad is partially set up. Photo after all was glued up except equipment connections. Got the pump wired and running last night. Pretty exciting to see the system finally moving water.
I'm going to wire the transformer for the Intellicenter and the transformer for lights this evening. Is there any benefit to wiring these 240 vs 120? Should the Intellicenter transformer be on its own breaker?
I'm going to wire the transformer for the Intellicenter and the transformer for lights this evening. Is there any benefit to wiring these 240 vs 120? Should the Intellicenter transformer be on its own breaker?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Looks good! Unions are almost always a good thing. Little surprised they used DWV fittings versus standard schedule 40, but it should work. Appears you have a placeholder for a new SWG at some point. Nice. 
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
120V or 240V does not matter to the IC electronics.
If you are doing a dedicated breaker for the IC then 120V takes only one slot.
If you have a breaker slot available then I would do a dedicated breaker for the IC. Otherwise whatever else you have on the breaker can trip it and you will have a dead IC.
Looks good! Unions are almost always a good thing. Little surprised they used DWV fittings versus standard schedule 40, but it should work. Appears you have a placeholder for a new SWG at some point. Nice.
I definitely wanted the unions, despite their ridiculous price. I selected, purchased, fitted and glued every piece of this entire project. I was fairly certain I selected all pressure fittings and no DWV. I'm curious where do you see a DWV fitting? SWG is on hand, just wanted to run the pump and get thing cleared up a bit before putting in line.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Those look like US Plastics Schedule 40 sweeps...
Schedule 40 Value PVC Socket 90° Sweep Elbows | U.S. Plastic Corp.
PVC fittings are resistant to corrosion and chemical attack from most acids, alkalis, salts, fungi, and bacteria.
Some vendors like Lasco make smooth hubs other make them wide.
This is what a DWV looks like with a short hub...
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just some questions about your plumbing at the equipment pad so I can try to get smarter on this before I try and do my own:
After your pump you have a 3 way valve, where one of the splits goes to the filter. Where does the other split go to?
On your return manifold, what is with the one valve still going horizontal?
I am assuming one of these is going to be a drain/waste connection, but not sure which.
The valve after the pump is for drain/waste if need be. I don't have it going anywhere at the moment. Just a 90 on there pointing down as I was evaluating options...I'll likely run it to a drain and daylight across the yard or possibly just use a backwash roll up hose and string out when needed. The one horizontal valve will get the three ball valve manifold laying on the equipment pad for deck jets. Deck jet flow will be set with ball valves then the Jandy valve will handle the on/off operation, eventually we'll use an valve actuator to tie into the automation system. I decided to run it horizontal due to the excessive height I was getting from having in run vertical in combination with the ball valves. The one unused vertically oriented valve will supply a line for a future slide or water feature.
We got the ledge supported with block grout poured underneath. It was a chore, we could have done better as there is one small spot where some air got trapped and created a void resulting in a hollow spot. I knew I'd probably have to take a few lumps along the way, I had really hoped to have done better with this part. I'm living with it as there's not much more to do I suppose, until if/when it becomes an issue.
Pool is running! Well it has been for a few days now, but everything (well not everything, but the important stuff) is running. Started with just pump/filter, then added in communication line to IC for the pump, lights, temp sensors and wireless connection. Just brought the SWG online yesterday. Overall I found the IC setup pretty painless, I was able to fumble through most areas to get equipment set up and on schedule, only had to reference the docs a time or two. Salt is at 3650ppm per the cell. FC is at 3. TA is high at 190 (was 220) even after adding 42oz of Muriatic Acid per the Pool Math app. It has only been about 12 hrs since I added the Muriatic Acid, maybe I should wait longer to test? PH was 8.1-8.2, seems to have come down some where around 7.8. CH is 200.
Prior to bringing the SWG online, I had been adding liquid chlorine to keep the water clean. Despite my efforts it dipped and dived from 1-5. Once it hit 4 I brought the SWG online and set it to 25% for the first day, then once it hit 3 I increased to 50%. CYA was at 50 and I added some last night. Need to test it in a few days. Any recommendations as to where to run the SWG?
We have gravel mostly around waiting to get on our concrete guy's schedule. We are planning on using 6x6 WWM and the fiberglass rods provided to connect the concrete to the fiberglass shell. We are going to pour 12" thick about 12" out from the wall then taper out to 4", 3' wide total. While I was initially going to go this route to add a bit more strength and to capture the deck jets, now I'm just hoping this buy's me some more time to install coping/pavers
. A few more lines to run for a future slide and the deck jets then we can cover it all up and run our bonding wire.
Pool is running! Well it has been for a few days now, but everything (well not everything, but the important stuff) is running. Started with just pump/filter, then added in communication line to IC for the pump, lights, temp sensors and wireless connection. Just brought the SWG online yesterday. Overall I found the IC setup pretty painless, I was able to fumble through most areas to get equipment set up and on schedule, only had to reference the docs a time or two. Salt is at 3650ppm per the cell. FC is at 3. TA is high at 190 (was 220) even after adding 42oz of Muriatic Acid per the Pool Math app. It has only been about 12 hrs since I added the Muriatic Acid, maybe I should wait longer to test? PH was 8.1-8.2, seems to have come down some where around 7.8. CH is 200.
Prior to bringing the SWG online, I had been adding liquid chlorine to keep the water clean. Despite my efforts it dipped and dived from 1-5. Once it hit 4 I brought the SWG online and set it to 25% for the first day, then once it hit 3 I increased to 50%. CYA was at 50 and I added some last night. Need to test it in a few days. Any recommendations as to where to run the SWG?
We have gravel mostly around waiting to get on our concrete guy's schedule. We are planning on using 6x6 WWM and the fiberglass rods provided to connect the concrete to the fiberglass shell. We are going to pour 12" thick about 12" out from the wall then taper out to 4", 3' wide total. While I was initially going to go this route to add a bit more strength and to capture the deck jets, now I'm just hoping this buy's me some more time to install coping/pavers
. A few more lines to run for a future slide and the deck jets then we can cover it all up and run our bonding wire.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
So lowering TA is a slow process. Manage your PH and the TA lowers with it. With a high TA, the Ph won't take long to rise, you'll lower it and the TA goes down by 10 when you do. PH goes up, lower it. TA goes too. Lather, rinse, repeat.
Also, 15 mins of circulation is enough to verify Muriatic Acid worked. Or chlorine.
While you learn, with the peak season around the corner, you would be well served to use the LC side of the chart. Overshoot target level for now and you'll have nothing but time to play with FC levels and learn the system far away from minimum. When you goof, your FC will be in the teens and so what ???? It's safe up to SLAM, 40% of CYA, 24 FC at 60 CYA, 28FC at 70.
If you goof with 2 FC to spare from minimum, and it's real sunny that day, you may find yourself learning how to clear a swamp as well.
Once you know the system backwards/forwards and how your pool responds to it, dance the minimum line as close as you wish. 10 years later I never stopped running hot as it worked so well.
I've been adding some Muriatic Acid to try and lower TA. I have my return jet eyeballs pointing up to aerate the water and bring PH back up. Left the pump running last night like this and the PH went from 7.2 to 7.9. Thanks for the insight, I feel like I'm on the right track...
Yesterday I noticed a fair amount of white flakes in the bottom of the pool. I assume they are coming from the SWG? Could this be a result of the high TA? Should I bring the SWG offline until I get the TA in check?
It's often a combo making the CSI being out of whack but I'm a vinyl guy with no experience in those matters. Hang tight for Pat. (Or others)