Replacement IC-40 flow, temp sensor with aftermarket

[Flying Tivo]

Has anybody tried Optimum Pool Technologies for replacement sensors? They are at least half off original parts.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

It’s the same part. So likely the same quality control issues. But yes, they are half the OEM part cost.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Felipe,

I don't know if it exactly the same part or not, but either way, it is just luck if it lasts a year or not..

In "theory" Pentair has come out with a new flow switch assembly that only has three wires and is supposed to work better.. Who knows for sure...

I would either buy a new version of the flow switch assembly, or I would install the following mod that JamesW came up with.. I have this mode on two of my pools and so far it has worked great. Time will tell.. Basically, your install a standard temp probe, just like the one for water temp, and use it in place of the one inside the flow switch assembly.




Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

I all ready have a temp probe for our heater. Can I splice of it and do the same thing? Or would I need an additional temperature probe?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Marty,

I would not hook two units up to the same probe as I could see that as an issue..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Already had an extra temp probe so great tip @Jimrahbe . The thing is that my IC started acting up since i installed my Iph without the control box. The addition was schedule 10:00-10:01 and my pool mode was schedule 10:00-2:00pm. So my guess is that high concetration of 15%MA is messing with the initial calibration/sensing of the IC. This modification could really help in installing the temp probe before the IPH and not effect the sensing and still have the benefit of acid before the cell.

 

[Jimrahbe]

..since i installed my Iph without the control box

Felipe,

Does this mean that your SWCG and the ipH are not interconnected as they are normally installed? I ask because I am not a fan of the ipH, just because I don't like the idea that the ipH controls the cell..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I’d move the IpH injection to later in the POOL Mode schedule. Have it inject acid at 10:15 or 10:30. The IC is doing its startup sequence for the first 3min or so and during that time it is sensing salinity. You don’t want an acid injection messing that up.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Does this mean that your SWCG and the ipH are not interconnected as they are normally installed?

Correct, its basically installed as a Stenner through the Aux2 relay, still powered by the SWG transformer.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You don’t want an acid injection messing that up.

Exactly what i did after it started acting up. We did have a big storm come in a few day ago and power went out. I cycled the ET8 2 times and it appears its back to normal. Wanted to have a spare sensor just in case.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Update on my IC-40, Salinity reading is 2750(taylor 3200), low salt red light is on but the catch is that the cell light is green and in screen logic i dont get Alarm "low salt". Production is as expected. Im almost sure the cell should not work at that low level. So the strange thing is that ET does not raise an alarm even when the red light is on. I will let it ride until it stops producing. Any suggestions?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Low salt chlorine generation cutoff for the IC-40 is 2600. The light is on below 2800 but will still generate chlorine down to 2600. Mine continuously reads 2650-2750. Taylor showing 3600-3800. I need to call Pentair and complain but I've been swamped at work and by the time I think about it again, they are gone for the day.

--Jeff

 

[Jimrahbe]

Felipe,

Below 2800, the red salt light comes on and ScreenLogic should say "Low Salt", but the cell will still work..

Below 2600 the red light is still on and ScreenLogic should say "Very Low Salt" and the cell should shut off.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Flying Tivo]

@Jimrahbe and @JamesW Thanks for the guidance on the Temp sensor mod. Finally the old flow/temp sensor(built 2014,used 2 years)read below 2600 and stop producing FC. I believe the Acid additions and the failing was just a coincidence. So today went ahead and did the mod. The IC40 now reads exactly as my Taylor test.
A few pictures for future reference. Used a small connector for future use/trouble shooting.

Thanks again everybody

 

[JamesW]

Ok, I suspect that you will find the sensor to be much more reliable.

Make sure to cover the connections to prevent water getting into the wires.

 

[Flying Tivo]

I did put the cover back on but forgot to take a picture.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Nice work. That mod is still on my list of to do’s but since my cell is producing chlorine with no salt errors, I’ll wait until fall. It will cool off and the SWG will throw a false “VERY LOW SALT” alarm. Then I’ll do the mod.

 

[Jimrahbe]

It will cool off and the SWG will throw a false “VERY LOW SALT” alarm.

I am pretty sure if you wait long enough it will throw a "Get off your Rear" alarm also..

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

The device that throws the "Get off your rear" alarm is called the w.i.f.e.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I am pretty sure if you wait long enough it will throw a "Get off your Rear" alarm also..

Jim R.

The device that throws the "Get off your rear" alarm is called the w.i.f.e.

Since any expenditure of energy increases the entropy of the universe, I choose to do the least amount of activity possible so as to add a few more nanoseconds on to the inevitable Big Crunch that will occur ....

... you can thank me any time.