Proper location for new SWG

[geh]

I broke out my Sony pro gear for better images, to determine my plumbing for the SWG. Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like everything from that t-joint next to that bypass valve, all the way to the 90 degree elbow joint well past the chlorine feeder will have to be replaced? Looks like the vertical install kit might be needed. Thoughts?

 

[hexabc]

I called CircuPool the other day and specifically asked about vertical installation. While the flow switch needs to be on the upward flow leg (as shown) the SWCG can be on either. But they were a little vague on if the SWCG only has 1 flow direction. Their graphics on the website show the end with the wire connection to be start of flow (i.e lets say left to right) but when in vertical position the end with the wire is shown on the bottom so flow is opposite way. Do you have an confirmation that flow can be either direction in the SWCG?

I called CircuPool as well before installing my RJ60+ earlier this year and they were definitely not vague: it doesn't matter. In vertical configuration, it is better to have the cable connected at the bottom of the tall construct. A couple of pictures of my install:

My new Circupool RJ60+ install

I thought I would share some pictures of my new RJ60+ install - could be helpful to other folks who plan to switch to SWCG. For me it was an opportunity to also fix some unrelated issues: The old stand was small, rotten and placed too close to the equipment pad - there was not enough room to...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jedigrover]

I broke out my Sony pro gear for better images, to determine my plumbing for the SWG. Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like everything from that t-joint next to that bypass valve, all the way to the 90 degree elbow joint well past the chlorine feeder will have to be replaced? Looks like the vertical install kit might be needed. Thoughts?

If the plumber is really handy, he could cut right at the exit of that T, and de-weld the pipe left inside, then plumb past that.
I've done this method several times on my pool plumbing and it works very, very well:

 

[proavia]

Post a few pics from a bit further away so we can get a better idea of the entire plumbing layout.

No need to rush into the install. Plan it all out first.

Chances are it may be best to do a larger re-plumb to allow better access moving forwwrd. While you are considering this, replace all those cheap ball valves in the process - eventually, they will freeze up and become unusable.

 

[geh]

Post a few pics from a bit further away so we can get a better idea of the entire plumbing layout.

No need to rush into the install. Plan it all out first.

Chances are it may be best to do a larger re-plumb to allow better access moving forwwrd. While you are considering this, replace all those cheap ball valves in the process - eventually, they will freeze up and become unusable.

 

[HermanTX]

I called CircuPool as well before installing my RJ60+ earlier this year and they were definitely not vague: it doesn't matter. In vertical configuration, it is better to have the cable connected at the bottom of the tall construct. A couple of pictures of my install:

My new Circupool RJ60+ install

I thought I would share some pictures of my new RJ60+ install - could be helpful to other folks who plan to switch to SWCG. For me it was an opportunity to also fix some unrelated issues: The old stand was small, rotten and placed too close to the equipment pad - there was not enough room to...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks - good info. Your install looks great.

 

[randytsuch]

I'm in the process of planning my swg installation.
I have even less room than you for heater out to pool, so I have to do a vertical installation.
I bought a couple unions, so I will have heater out to elbow to union to vertical adapter section to union to elbow if that makes sense.

You can also make a little bypass with some pipe and a couple elbows. To install when you remove the vertical adapter so you would still have a working pool even without the swg stuff in place.

I stole all of this from someone else, see this pics to see what this looks like.

Randy

 

[geh]

Generally, pool salt has smaller granules so it dissolves faster. Cost is usually more than plain water softener salt.

Since you'll need a good deal of salt, shop for bulk discounts. Here are a couple options:

Pool Salt:

Diamond Crystal Splash Ready 40 lb. Pool Salt 110002702 - The Home Depot

Enjoy the Diamond Crystal 40 lb. Pool Salt 8526, that's 99.3% pure salt and specially formulated for use with most electric chlorinator systems at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

Softener Salt:

Diamond Crystal Solar Naturals Water Softener Salt Crystals 100012454 - The Home Depot

Minimize accumulation of brine tank residue by using this Solar Naturals Water Softener Salt Crystals from Diamond Crystal.

www.homedepot.com

There's under a $1 price difference here.

*Prices may vary in your area.

My current salt level is 2400 ppm. Circupool recommends 3500 ppm as optimal so I need to add around 140 lbs (just under four 10 lbs bags of salt) to get to that number. Those numbers are based on both Circupool's chart and pool math, which both came out to a comparable equivalency. Given that's not a lot of money, which is better, the water softener salt or the pool salt? Is there a difference in feel quality (softer water) or one dissolves better, or one will be better on the cells of the unit? also, when can I add that salt? Can I go ahead and do it now if I know this will be installed within the week?

 

[geh]

I talked to someone at Circupool. He said honestly the vertical bypass you could assemble with standard pvc fittings. He also said if a pool guy is giving a high quote, just get a plumber to do it for a lot cheaper. I may call on my local plumber and have him drop it in with a vertical bypass. As long has he can de-weld that one piece going into that t joint, the rest is just cutting and gluing.

 

[randytsuch]

I talked to someone at Circupool. He said honestly the vertical bypass you could assemble with standard pvc fittings. He also said if a pool guy is giving a high quote, just get a plumber to do it for a lot cheaper. I may call on my local plumber and have him drop it in with a vertical bypass. As long has he can de-weld that one piece going into that t joint, the rest is just cutting and gluing.

I bought the parts from HD, hopefully it will work, waiting for my SWG to see how it will go together. I was going to buy from Circupool until I saw shipping cost.

 

[jedigrover]

My current salt level is 2400 ppm. Circupool recommends 3500 ppm as optimal so I need to add around 140 lbs (just under four 10 lbs bags of salt) to get to that number. Those numbers are based on both Circupool's chart and pool math, which both came out to a comparable equivalency. Given that's not a lot of money, which is better, the water softener salt or the pool salt? Is there a difference in feel quality (softer water) or one dissolves better, or one will be better on the cells of the unit? also, when can I add that salt? Can I go ahead and do it now if I know this will be installed within the week?

Makes no difference. As long as it is 99.9% pure salt (NaCl), the only difference is the size of the granules. Once dissolved, NaCl molecules don't care what size the rock they came from was.

The smaller the granules, the faster it dissolves, but honestly, even the water softener salt (which is very similar in size to rock salt) dissolves quite quickly with a little brushing. I dropped a 40lb bag of softener salt in the other day and went to empty the skimmers on the way to grabbing my brush. When I returned about 4 minutes later, most of the salt had already dissolved.

You can add the salt ahead of time. Just be sure you are basing your amount off of knowing the actual amount of salt in your water presently, from a test like K-1766.

With a SWG, you want to turn it off before adding salt and leave it off until the salt is fully dissolved and water is well mixed (a few hours). This is to prevent damage to the unit from high salinity, which causes it to draw more current.

Also, when starting up a SWG, make sure you have the water at normal maintenance level of FC via liquid chlorine addition before turning on the cell. It is good at maintaining levels, not so good at bringing levels up from zero.

 

[geh]

To be clear, if I can engineer it, that is the correct location, where the chlorine feeder is: replace the feeder with the SWG? About to roll on this. Since I can't go in public, still quarantining, I am going to ask my local plumber to engineer it in.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

To be clear, if I can engineer it, that is the correct location, where the chlorine feeder is: replace the feeder with the SWG? About to roll on this. Since I can't go in public, still quarantining, I am going to ask my local plumber to engineer it in.

It looks like you have plenty of room for a horizontal install there. I'm sure the plumber will be able to make it work.

 

[almostakeeper]

Here's a picture of the vertical install on my pool. What you're looking at cost wise on labor. You do the 6 5/8 pipe cut out, install the unit on the cut out, install the wall unit, wire the wall unit to your timer, run the wire from the sensor to the wall unit, run your bonding wire, add salt. It shouldn't take more then 2 hours if you've never done this before. 1 hour if you have a basic understanding of electrics, mounting stuff and plumbing.

 

[HermanTX]

Here's a picture of the vertical install on my pool. What you're looking at cost wise on labor. You do the 6 5/8 pipe cut out, install the unit on the cut out, install the wall unit, wire the wall unit to your timer, run the wire from the sensor to the wall unit, run your bonding wire, add salt. It shouldn't take more then 2 hours if you've never done this before. 1 hour if you have a basic understanding of electrics, mounting stuff and plumbing.

Great update and picture. What size is the bonding wire that you had to add? I suppose I can purchase a clamp that connects to the existing bond wire running from the pump and then just tie the other end to the clamp on the control box.

 

[almostakeeper]

#6 bare copper, can be purchased by the foot and the clamps are usually in the electrical sections at the big box stores.

 

[geh]

Done! Now I just have to mount and wire the control panel, add my salt and run that new mixture for a while then it will be online tomorrow. Hired a plumber, took him exactly one hour. He had to ream out an existing coupling, he used the existing pipe and an existing coupling. Literally no extra pvc needed. It was a tight space to work, he said it was a tight fit but just enough room, so I’m happy it cost me an hour or so labor cost, to get it done right. I also called Circupool to confirm it is perfectly fine to locate the flow switch after the cell, and called Pentair to confirm there is no conflict with the pipe and cell running next to the pool heater

 

[Texas Splash]

Nice!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Looks good. Welcome to the club!

 

[geh]

(Edit, photos are out of order so rewording the post to match each photo)

Ok, wiring question . I think I have this right, just want to confirm. The leads coming from the main circuit (dual 50A circuit) into the pool equipment box (2nd photo). My multi-meter shows its 240V. The leads coming from the pool pump wiring (green/white/black) are in the third photo. The green goes into the ground on the far left of the 4th photo. The black and white go into this pump timer in the 1st and 5th photo. Two black then come from the timer, one into each of those two 20Amp breakers.

So it looks like this is 240V system, and I connect the wiring of my control panel (last photo) to the same connections on the timer that the pool pump wiring are connected (with the green anywhere on that grounding bus in the third photo). Is that correct?