Pressure drops inexplicably

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gonfishin said:
We had a similar issue, but at our electrical box. Went to Lowe's and purchased 1/2" to 3/4" reducers (yeah, product is named backward). So, the 1/2" connection on the electrical whip now firmly and watertightly connects to the 3/4" hole in the box.
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I’ll bring the existing elbow in to HD and ask what to get that will fit my conduit and go to the 1/2” on the housing :)
 
There is a seal on the back side of the impeller. The impeller will have reverse threads so it screws off reverse what you normally would screw it off. If its like mine ( looks the same) it is a two piece seal with plastic type rubber and some kind of porcelain type washer part that fits together with a spring. Mine as instructions that says don't touch the porcelain part with your hands ( oil from your hands does something to it). Before I would replace the seal make sure to fill the strainer basket with water ( I usually pour a 5 gallon bucket of water into the strainer) then screw the top back on fast and start the pump. If the pump doesn't prime in about in 45 -60 seconds the seal is probably bad. You will need to replace it. While you have the impeller off check the vanes inside it they could be plugged with leaves and junk.
 
Now I just have to figure out how much to set it to run. I’ve read other threads and have an idea.

If I want it to just run 24 hours like during a slam, do I need to reprogram it? Can’t see a way to just override it on constantly.
 
Ice, I'm somewhat struggling with my new VSP and its settings too.

I've decided to run 24 hours a day because I have a SWG and I like to keep the water moving, so you may decide to do differently. I have 3 settings right now and will likely change things once we get to summer. Here's the current schedule

800 RPM for 15:45 hours - this is overnight when the solar cover is on. This is about 200 more RPMs than I need to keep the SWG happy.
2700 RPMs for 0:15 hours - because the water level in the pump basket decreases a bit overnight, I run at "priming" speed for a bit to fill it back up.
2000 RPMs for 8:00 hours - I need this speed to run my heat pump.

When the weather warms up a bit more and I won't have to run the heat pump, I'll probably eliminate the higher RPMs and simply set it to run about 1200 RPMs 24 hours / day. I can't recall what kW the pump tells me it's using at these RPMs, but I'm pretty sure I'm using less than 10 kWh/day to run the pump. This compares to over 30 kWh/day with my old pump!
 
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gonfishin said:
Ice, I'm somewhat struggling with my new VSP and its settings too.

I've decided to run 24 hours a day because I have a SWG and I like to keep the water moving, so you may decide to do differently. I have 3 settings right now and will likely change things once we get to summer. Here's the current schedule

800 RPM for 15:45 hours - this is overnight when the solar cover is on. This is about 200 more RPMs than I need to keep the SWG happy.
2700 RPMs for 0:15 hours - because the water level in the pump basket decreases a bit overnight, I run at "priming" speed for a bit to fill it back up.
2000 RPMs for 8:00 hours - I need this speed to run my heat pump.

When the weather warms up a bit more and I won't have to run the heat pump, I'll probably eliminate the higher RPMs and simply set it to run about 1200 RPMs 24 hours / day. I can't recall what kW the pump tells me it's using at these RPMs, but I'm pretty sure I'm using less than 10 kWh/day to run the pump. This compares to over 30 kWh/day with my old pump!
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Yes your power bill will drop a lot, I compared June 2018 and June 2019 and seems like it was around 30% less for comparable months. I run my pump 24x7
 
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IceShadow said:
Now I just have to figure out how much to set it to run. I’ve read other threads and have an idea.

If I want it to just run 24 hours like during a slam, do I need to reprogram it? Can’t see a way to just override it on constantly.
Click to expand...

I run mine at 1800 rpm all the time now that I have a robot..
On mine you turn it off, push the setting and toggle between hours and RPM then push the next setting and that saves it. Now I just have the first set to 1800 24 hours, if I want to circulate more I use the oevrride one
 
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...and now I’ve had the motor shut off twice with an Err 0002 message. I did some googling, spun the impeller, restarted it. If it happens again I’m assuming there’s some sort of electrical issue with the line, but I have no voltage tester to troubleshoot with. Any advice if it happens again?
 
IceShadow said:
...and now I’ve had the motor shut off twice with an Err 0002 message. I did some googling, spun the impeller, restarted it. If it happens again I’m assuming there’s some sort of electrical issue with the line, but I have no voltage tester to troubleshoot with. Any advice if it happens again?
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Maybe somebody had seen that before.
You can buy an expensive volt ohm meter if you need it at homedepot. I have even seen them at Walmart for around $20
 

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markayash said:
Is it still acting up?
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It didn’t error again today. I am going to see if the guys coming out to check the heater will look at the pump and make 100% sure we have it connected right when they stop out. I’ll keep an eye on it over the weekend.

The last time it errored (second time) I used an allen wrench fromnthe back of the pump to spin the impeller. Maybe it was just another pine needle getting caught.
 
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Based on the issue with the previous pump, I suspect that there's something wrong with the power supply.

You need to check the voltage while the pump is on.

You need to use a good "True RMS" multimeter and watch the voltage for a while.

What breaker feeds the pump?

If the breaker is old and in poor condition, I would replace it with a Pentair PA220GF.
 
JamesW said:
Based on the issue with the previous pump, I suspect that there's something wrong with the power supply.

You need to check the voltage while the pump is on.

You need to use a good "True RMS" multimeter and watch the voltage for a while.

What breaker feeds the pump?

If the breaker is old and in poor condition, I would replace it with a Pentair PA220GF.
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Do you have a recommendation for a multimeter to buy?

I will check the breaker panel and report back.
 
IceShadow said:
Do you have a recommendation for a multimeter to buy?

I will check the breaker panel and report back.
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No just get a basic digital one. Homedepot may have a better quality then walmart. Amazon has one for $12 as an example. Your not super concerned if you read 221v instead of 220.

AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter Continuity Test (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn) - - Amazon.com

AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter Continuity Test (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn) - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
 
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Don't get a cheap multimeter. You want one that says "True RMS".

Cheap multimeters use averaging and rely on the voltage being a clean sine wave.

Certain equipment, like a variable speed pump can distort the sine wave, which can cause a cheap multimeter to be inaccurate.

 
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That should work. The CL600 model is a little bit less expensive and should be ok.

It might be easiest to access the wires for a voltage or current test at the switch.

Do you have a picture of the switch or timer that provides power to the pump?
 
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