Pp newbie looking for help

Initially pum was running at 3000, I tried to lower and it was when i fiound up that spa wasn’t working, and i adjusted the speed until spa worked, so to 2400
Gotcha. :goodjob: Okay, we'll see if Jim can give us some clarification.
 
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Aramor,

I am a little confused, so help me catch up... :mrgreen:

When in the Pool mode, you would not normally get much water flow back to the spa.. Just a little bit.. When you have a raised spa, even this little bit will cause the spa to spillover into the pool.. When you have a sunken spa, like yours, the extra water going to the spa would not be very noticeable. Obviously, the faster you run the pump, the more more water you will get. I am not sure that you actually need to see it, before you call it good.

Your plumbing has a big loop between where the water goes back to the pool and where (in the pool mode) the water has to go up over this loop before going back to the spa.. Water tries to seek its own level, so at low RPMs, it is easier for the water to go back to the pool than it is to go up and then back to the spa. You can play with this valve and reduce the water going to the pool which will force more water into the spa..

Keep in mind that there may only be one jet or pipe that sends water to the spa when in the Pool mode.. it is not going to be like being in the Spa mode.

With a heater, I'd think you have to run at 1500 to 1800, so you are not too far off.

There is nothing 'magic' about the RPM speeds set up by the pool builder. Just adjust them to make your pool, work for you..

Please let me know if that did not answer your question..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Hello Jim,
Sorry for the late response, I was at work and spent some time checking again everything, I am so confused rn, my pump is working to low speed , 1300 and spa as well, it has 2 returning jets, the only thing with sense that I can think now, it’s that spa water was not circulating to low speed bc of the SWG. Bc I started slam process last Saturday, and now really I don’t remember if I tried low speed when Swg was still on or not. Idk if that has any sense.

- you said, bc of the heater maybe I have to run from 1500 to 1800, even no using it? (Sorry for my ignorance).
- what’s the valve do I have to open a little bit to get more circulation in the spa? ,

Supposedly bc of the Swg, after process done, when I have to turn Swg on (that is gonna be another headache for me …), how should I manage the speeds with the purpose of saving energy? A couple of hours run as lower as possible allowing spa works and the rest of the hours ( i have no idea how many) to minimum speed in spite of spa doesn’t work?

Thank you so much, I appreciate a lot your help guys, that’s too much, but baby steps. 😊

Tonight OCTL again, 🤞🏻
 
Aramor,

The valve in the blue circle adjusts how much water goes down and back to your pool and how much goes up and into your Spa, when you are in the Pool Mode.

The heater is in the water's path all the time. It does not matter if the heater is on or off.. I can run at 1200 RPM because I do not have a heater. If I had a heater, then I would have to run at 1500 to 1800 to have the same amount of flow. I would expect that your pool is about the same.

There is no reason to run the pump if you are not making a little chlorine.. So, the slowest speed you should run is whatever speed turns on your salt cell + 100 RPM just to make sure.





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Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thank you sooooo much, idk what would do without you guys, 😊
I’ll keep you update about my OCTL
Good morninggg!!!
Slam is done 💃💃. I already added my cya , at noon in my break, I will get home to test fc and cya, and if everything is fine (finger crossed )I will add salt this evening.
We got it 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
 
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Good morninggg!!!
Slam is done 💃💃. I already added my cya , at noon in my break, I will get home to test fc and cya, and if everything is fine (finger crossed )I will add salt this evening.
We got it 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hello again!!!
It’s time to turn my SWG ON. I was reading about that, basically I have to generate the amount of Chlorine used during daylight hours. I was taking note of some formulas to calculate FCH, FHU..
manual way. I also was looking at Pool Math, but I don’t understand what values has to be entered.
I entered 0 in current fc, and 5 as a target. But it’s talking about how many rppm of fc is used or the fc target? Basically, what data I need to enter “ current chlorine and target free chlorine.
 

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What you entered is fine to start. First pic says, run the pump 24/7, and set the output to 35% and it will generate 5FC over the day.

5 is a good target to start in Houston in the summer.

When you are ready to start it up, raise your FC to target range for your CYA using this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Then turn the cell on. Test in 24 hours. If you are in range still, then your setting is good. If you are below range, raise with liquid again to range and turn your cell up %. If you are above range, turn your cell down a bit.

^^^Make sense?
 
What you entered is fine to start. First pic says, run the pump 24/7, and set the output to 35% and it will generate 5FC over the day.

5 is a good target to start in Houston in the summer.

When you are ready to start it up, raise your FC to target range for your CYA using this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Then turn the cell on. Test in 24 hours. If you are in range still, then your setting is good. If you are below range, raise with liquid again to range and turn your cell up %. If you are above range, turn your cell down a bit.

^^^Make sense?
Yes, make sense for me. I just tested and my level are:
FC = 5.5 (no added chlorine)
Cya= 70
Salt =3200
Ph was 8.2 and I added muriatic acid to lower to 7.6
I already turn SWG ON 24/7 , 5 ppm target, bc it’s too hot. Now I am adjusting the speed.
The only thing left is adjust the calcium hardness, it is 250, can I do it with the SWG working?

Then, no test until tomorrow this time, right?
Thank you so much, another step done 😉
 
FC = 5.5 (no added chlorine)
Raise your FC to 7 now with liquid. You are adding the 5ppm with SWCG to maintain 7,
I already turn SWG ON 24/7 , 5 ppm target, bc it’s too hot. Now I am adjusting the speed.
Great.
The only thing left is adjust the calcium hardness, it is 250, can I do it with the SWG working?
Before you raise CH, test your fill water. 250 is fine for a plaster pool. If you have high CH fill water, raising CH now will shorten your window that you will have before you may need to lower it.
 

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Ok, I am doing it, but I don’t understand how you calculate 7 as a target. I thought it was to cya=70 fc target =5. Please explain to me, I am confused now.
Maybe is bc you choose as a target the value in the middle of the target range, to avoid fc goes down below 5?
Cya =70 target range (5-10)
 
Ok.

Your CYA is 70. Per this link-->FC/CYA Levels Your FC range is 5-10. 7 is an ok intermediate in the range. As a new pool owner, I might even target 10.
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SWCG is not good at raising FC. The liquid will raise it to 7 or 8 or 9 or 10, whatever you choose. All of these levels are good.

If you have 5ppm demand, and you are adding 5ppm with SWCG, you should end up, at the end of 24 hours back at 7. If you are low (<7 or whatever you raised to tonight), then add liquid back to target and increase % output on the cell, or increase runtime. If you are high, lower the % output or runtime.

7 (your addition tonight) -5ppm FC demand + 5 cell output = 7 tomorrow.

^^Make sense?
 
Maybe is bc you choose as a target the value in the middle of the target range, to avoid fc goes down below 5?
Cya =70 target range (5-10)
Yep! You got it!

Running higher, protects you from the downside. Running lower, allows you to get into algae territory!

Run at 10 until you learn what your pool consumes...then you can lower your target.

You always want to be "in range" when you test. If you have to go higher, so you are in range when you test, do that...
 
I keep my CYA 80-90. Reduces the demand on my cell. I keep my FC 10-12, to protect the downside if I have a high FC demand.
 
Hello!!!
Yesterday I adjusted pump speed to 1750, 24/7, and Swg working. It looks like it was working well, until 2 hours ago, now no water circulating in the spa. That’s weird? It was working well for almost 24 hours and now look like pressure is much lower. And the flow of the water in the cell is lower as well, but I don’t understand why is working perfectly for 20 hours and now it lost pressure.
Do you know what is the valve with red circle?
Also has less water circulating.
 

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The red circle is a check valve.

The two valves that have actuators, have the right pipes closed. Your automation likely has a schedule for the spa to turn it on and off, and has likely closed the valves to the spa.

Red arrow side are closed by the actuated valves.

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The red circle is a check valve.

The two valves that have actuators, have the right pipes closed. Your automation likely has a schedule for the spa to turn it on and off, and has likely closed the valves to the spa.

Red arrow side are closed by the actuated valves.

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Sorry, but I have no idea about equipment, nothing scheduled , bc filter pump is working 24/7 I just turned filter pump on in iAquaLink, but nothing is sheduled. I was talking about no water is circulating in my spa when pump is working to 1750 speed, but it was working perfectly during 20 hours.
What does 2 right pipes closed mean? What do the valves corresponding to?
 
The valves right next to the end of the red arrows have actuators (the valve position is controlled by the actuators). In the position the valves are in, the pipes coming out the right side of each valve is closed. I don't know where those pipes come from (right side suction) or go to (left side is returns). If the two pipes that are closed come from and go to the spa, that is your issue.
 

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