Possible New Pool In Central FL

[Jimrahbe]

Guy,

There are a lot of great equipment guys here on TFP...

For background I have three EasyTouch systems... While the IntelliCenter is much better, it is not enough difference for me to spend the money to upgrade my existing systems to the new IntelliCenter.

That said, it would not make sense to install an old EasyTouch instead of the new IntelliCenter on a new build.. as they are about the same price..

Here is why... The EasyTouch has a max of 12 schedules/programs.. the IntelliCenter has 100.. The ET is a "what you buy is what you get" type of system.. The IC is a modular system that you can modify to make it do new things. The ET has no ability to group functions together.. While the IC allows you to assign several function to one button that can turn them all or or off. The ET has a small back and white screen, while the IC has a color screen that allows icons. It goes on, but the IC is just better.

The one good thing about the ET plus ScreenLogic, is that you can use your PC, Phone, and Tablet without using the Pentair website.. The IC has remote control, but it needs to use a Pentair web server, which lately has been down quite often..

The more complex your pool, the more important it is to go with the IntelliCenter.. For a pool without a lot of water features, lights, and valves, the old EasyTouch should work just fine..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Tegguy]

Guy,

There are a lot of great equipment guys here on TFP...

For background I have three EasyTouch systems... While the IntelliCenter is much better, it is not enough difference for me to spend the money to upgrade my existing systems to the new IntelliCenter.

That said, it would not make sense to install an old EasyTouch instead of the new IntelliCenter on a new build.. as they are about the same price..

Here is why... The EasyTouch has a max of 12 schedules/programs.. the IntelliCenter has 100.. The ET is a "what you buy is what you get" type of system.. The IC is a modular system that you can modify to make it do new things. The ET has no ability to group functions together.. While the IC allows you to assign several function to one button that can turn them all or or off. The ET has a small back and white screen, while the IC has a color screen that allows icons. It goes on, but the IC is just better.

The one good thing about the ET plus ScreenLogic, is that you can use your PC, Phone, and Tablet without using the Pentair website.. The IC has remote control, but it needs to use a Pentair web server, which lately has been down quite often..

The more complex your pool, the more important it is to go with the IntelliCenter.. For a pool without a lot of water features, lights, and valves, the old EasyTouch should work just fine..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks Jim our pool has
2 pumps
3 waterfalls with LED light
2 bubblers with LED light
2 pool lights
1 spa light

Unsure how many valves yet.

My equipment guy (plumber) said the intellicenter was like 1K more. It sounds like I'll need the screenlogic either way and I though I read something about needing something for the salt cell with the intellicenter but maybe I misread.

With the website being down does that impact your schedules or just being able to control stuff? Is that just the remote or mobile apps also (assuming both)

 

[Tegguy]

We're in the "waiting for engineering" phase of our pool build but I'm trying to think down the road. As such I have 2 new questions....

1) What size wire and breaker should I plan for the sub panel? The sub panel is approx 30 feet of wire and will be running Pentair automation with a 120K ish heatpump, 2 VS pumps and SWG. I was thinking 100 Amp breaker with 1 AWG wire in a plastic conduit burried.

2) What is best for the equipment pad? Poured concrete? Pre fab concrete pad? Plastic pad?

 

[Tegguy]

I thought I had seen a document before but I can't seem to find it. Is there anywhere that has a good list of the process to build a pool and which sub is responsible for what? For example obviously layout, dig, and steel do the dig and the rebar but what else needs to be done by a different sub (I.E. light niches, plumbing, ect) before the gunnite can go in? Just trying to get a grasp on who will do what when to ensure I have everything figured out. Also trying to get a handle on who will provide which materials and which I should try to get myself.

 

[ajw22]

Try Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

 

[ajw22]

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

100 amp is fine

Poured concrete slab is best pad but don't bury pipes. Bring the pipes up alongside the concrete pad.

 

[Tegguy]

So the shortest distance for my electrical line would put it right under the pad. I also be have pre existing sprinkler and backflow lines that run in this area as well.

What's everyone's thoughts on water depth for a sunshelf? 6"? 9"? 12" the wife wants it for kid and dogs but I want to be able to have a lounger in the water and have my feet and butt in the water.

 

[kimkats]

sit on your lounger and measure the depth you would need for the wet butt and feet. THEN sit on the floor and see where that depth would hit your and your dog. Work it out from there.

 

[Tegguy]

sit on your lounger and measure the depth you would need for the wet butt and feet. THEN sit on the floor and see where that depth would hit your and your dog. Work it out from there.

We don't have any loungers yet....

 

[kimkats]

I guess you could go look at the ones at Lowes or such to see.

 

[Tegguy]

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

100 amp is fine

Poured concrete slab is best pad but don't bury pipes. Bring the pipes up alongside the concrete pad.

I'm trying to avoid rerouting my backflow lines and preventer which would run right underneath this pad after I did some more investigation. What's the second best option and what size (or sizes) should I plan for? Would something like this be a good option? 3" UltraLite® Lightweight Concrete Equipment Pads | Diversitech

 

[Tegguy]

Try Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

Thanks this is what I was looking for. Is there anything out there the helps explain the process and what has to be done before the next step and what subs are responsible for what?

 

[ajw22]

I'm trying to avoid rerouting my backflow lines and preventer which would run right underneath this pad after I did some more investigation. What's the second best option and what size (or sizes) should I plan for? Would something like this be a good option? 3" UltraLite® Lightweight Concrete Equipment Pads | Diversitech

I don’t understand the problem but I have no experience with that pad. My experience with pads other then poured concrete is they don’t last. Eventually they deteriorate and crack and equipment is no longer level.

 

[Tegguy]

I don’t understand the problem but I have no experience with that pad. My experience with pads other then poured concrete is they don’t last. Eventually they deteriorate and crack and equipment is no longer level.

I was trying to avoid burying lines under a poured concrete pad. Currently if I were to pour a pad my irrigation main line and pour equipment power line would be underneath the pad. I could possibly reroute the pool power line however the irrigation line would be more difficult.

 

[ajw22]

You have to decide which maintenance headache you would rather have in the future.

 

[Tegguy]

Need some more help please. We're working through the engineering and we have a 4ft sheer on a raised elevation (used to be 10'). This sheer will be a CMP Brilliant Wonders LED waterfall and I was telling the engineer that the wall had to be 24" thick because one pool builder told me that and this was her response

"The pool shell does not have to necessarily 24 inches thick to fit the water feature. I have seen many go in an 8 inch shell, it depends on the product you are using and the means and methods of the builder.'

I can't find and information on the wall thickness for the sheer but I need all the plumbing and electrical to be in the wall because it's the outer wall of the pool and I don't want it exposed and prone to damage from lawn equipment and such. Can anyone help me figure out what to tell the engineer or should this be a custom block wall or something after gunnite? Pictures below for reference and the columns are a similar question.

 

[Tegguy]

Just wanting to bump this up since the engineer is waiting on me.

 

[kimkats]

@bdavis466 @jimmythegreek any input?

 

[bdavis466]

An 8" wall is typical and the backside filled in with block to create the depth to conceal the plumbing and electrical.

 

[jimmythegreek]

You can conceal the waterfall amd plumbing in 12" I recommend burying the waterfall in the shell and leaving possible access from the back even if just emergency demo that wont disrupt the bond beam wall. You need 2" pipe for a 4 footer amd i always pipe the rock trap in.