Pool suddenly cloudy overnight

ohaya

0
Jun 17, 2015
94
VA
Hi,

We have a 28000 gallon gunite inground pool (using DE filter) that was opened on 6/10/2019 (today is 7/4/2019) and it was fine until today. When we checked it this morning, we noticed the water in the entire pool looked "cloudy".

I did a quick check of the chlorine (using 2 different tests - a Poolmaster and an Accuchek strip test) and it appeared to show like 0 free and 0 combined chlorine.

So, I decided to try to do a backwash before shocking, but when I did the backwash, it looked like the bulb never showed cloudy, i.e., it looked like there was no DE in the filter (when I backwashed, the small bulb never looked like it got cloudy).

So I was wondering if maybe, for some reason, the DE from the filter had all gone into pool? Is that possible?

Anyway, for now, we have put new DE in (via the skimmer) and then we shocked the pool with 3 lbs of pool shock, and we will check it over today and tomorrow, and see how it looks tomorrow.

Is it possible that the DE might've just gone into the pool like that? What would cause something like that?

Thanks!

Jim

P.S. Happy Fourth of July to everyone!!
 
I just tested again, this time with a Taylor kit, and it looks like it was about 8 fc, with no cc.

So I added 2 more lbs of chlorine to try to bring the FC up.

Pool is still cloudy. My wife says it looks better, but I think it is still the same.
 
I think you caught a algae bloom before it went all of the way. GOOD JOB! Now you need to do a SLAM to make it go away completely! Here is the link to the SLAM just in case you have not had to use it before:

What test kit are you using?
 
kimkats,

I do have a Taylor kit, but the powder for the chlorine test turned to rock :)... I was able to scrape enough off for 2 dips, but not sure if I'll be able to get more (I just ordered some from Amazon).

So what I have is a Poolmaster kit and an Accuchek test strips. I'll have to try to make do with those until the new powder arrives.

I added 2 more lbs of chlorine earlier (so total 5 lbs so far) and will check CL with whatever I can in a bit.

Hopefully it is what you said, and I can get it cleared up.

We have been some really hot and sunny days here (in Virginia/DC area), so that is probably why? We usually don't have this problem before.

Jim

EDIT: P.S. I always thought that algae bloom would be greenish? The pool water is still blue... almost the same color as normal, but just cloudy.
 
I always thought that algae bloom would be greenish? The pool water is still blue... almost the same color as normal, but just cloudy.
It will turn green quick if not hit with SLAM level FC.

You say 'pounds of chlorine'? Solid chlorine adds either CYA or calcium. Best to use liquid chlorine.
 
We don't have liquid so I am using pool shock we got from intheswim, which comes in 1 pound bags.

Just tested, and then added 2 more lbs. (so total 3+2+2 = 8, so far) I will check in awhile, but do you all have an estimate about how many pounds I need to add to bring it to SLAM levels?

Jim

P.S. Wifey keeps yelling at me because she thinks it will damage the pool?
 
What is the powdered 'pool shock'. Get liquid chlorine from now on.

Use PoolMath for how much to add. If you want us to check your figures, post up what you calculate before adding.

We need your signature filled out so we know details about your pool.
 

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Read the SLAM Process. The M is maintain. Hold your SLAM level FC - see FC/CYA Levels - until you pass the the three criteria.

That is cal hypo. Adding calcium. That may be OK for you. Just be sure it is fully dissolving so it does not stain your pool.
 
If you need to follow the SLAM Process; you use the SLAM level FC - with a 60 ppm CYA, that is 24 ppm FC. You add enough chlorine to get to that level, pump running 24/7. Test every few hours and add enough chlorine to get back to 24 ppm FC. Do that until your water is crystal clear. Then do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
Hi,

I have some (possibly doubtful) info. The test strips I have are Aquachek7, and include CYA. If I believe that, it is saying that CYA is < 30.

When we did the renovation, they brought water in in several tankers, i.e., the water in the pool has mostly only been there for maybe 2.5 - 3 years now.

So maybe that is why the CYA is so low (i.e., it hasn't been sitting there for 20 years with tablets all the time)?

So anyway, if the CYA is actually like 0-30 then it looks like my SLAM level should be 10-12, right?

Also I just measured CL now and TC and FC were ~5, so according to that Poolmath site, I should just need to add ~2 pounds more?

EDIT: So BTW, the low CYA may also be the reason that we got this problem if it is an algae bloom? I mean because CYA is low, so the pool wouldn't hold CL, right? And we haven't been paying attention to it because we 've have this pool for 20+ years and rarely have to do anything other than keep the CL floater re-filled.
 
If you cannot reliably test your CYA, you should not SLAM.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
 
Ok, I just realized that the Taylor K-2006 kit can also measure CYA and I ran the test and got 100 :(!!

SO now, it looks like the SLAM FC is like 39?

And then according to the poolmatch, I need like 9 pounds 7 ounces of shock?

Ok, I know you recommend using liquid bleach, but I don't have that. Does that sound right?

Thanks,
Jim

P.S. BTW, if I did have bottles of Clorox, how many would I need instead of the shock?
 
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.

Then determine how much water you need to drain and replace with fresh water to get your CYA to 40-50 ppm.
 
Find out your approximate CYA levels with a diluted test. You will likely then need to do a water exchange to lower the CYA levels. The test is to find out how much.
 
Hi,

Sorry - we all got busy with family activities over the fourth holiday, but I wanted to update this thread.

I was somewhat doubtful of the readings I was getting with the 3 different methods I was using (Taylor K2006, Poolmaster, Accu strips). Maybe they were too old or something, but anyway, I decided to take a sample to a local pool place (evening of 7/4/2019) and they tested it and FC 7.5, TC 7.5, CYA 90. pH 7.6. They said everything looked ok except the high FC/TC ( :)! ) and Phosphates were high (300).

Anyway, that is just some new/additional data. I have some new reagent for the K2006 coming today so will retest after I get that.

Anyway (sorry for the many "Anyways"), our pool guy finally got back to us about the cloudiness, and he said that he thinks we got a lot of rain the last few days (which is true), so let the pump/filter run over the weekend to see if it clears up and if not and we let him know, they will come over on Monday (that call was on Friday, 7/5/2019, morning) and check if there is a problem with the filter (recall we didn't see the bulb go cloudy when we backwashed).

So we've been watching, and sure enough, the pool is clear today/this morning!!

Now, we don't have an explanation for the cloudiness or for the DE disappearing from the filter, but I was googling for that, and found reasons for DE being dumped into the pool and found that leaks at the pump could do that, and when I mentioned that, my wife said that she had noted that there were bubbles in the pot, even though we had flushed the air out, so now we are wondering if maybe the O-ring on the pot cover or the drain plug was allowing air to get into the system?

I have ordered new O-rings for both and they should get here tomorrow (Sunday) and we will try replacing them.

So anyway (again!), that is where we are. I am trying to monitor the chemicals with what I have. It has been (and is) really sunny and hot here, plus it rained again yesterday, which is probably not helping the CL levels.
 

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