Ph after water softener First readings

[kul]

You may be surprised at the salinity of your pool water. Liquid chlorine, trichlor, dichlor, muriatic acid, body fluids, all contain salt.

Up to you, but it is wise to get it tested, especially if your pool water and fill water temperatures are very close. If 20F difference, not as big a deal.

You have been so helpful. Thank you so much.

 

[kul]

What is ideal level for CYA?
My pool guy says it’s 60 for commercial pools because they need more chlorine due to bather load and that it’s 120-160 for residential pools.

Also what CH level in areas where we have hard water is generally acceptable? He said he doesn’t recommend drain/refill until people reach 1000 because if other “levels” are kept in check there shouldn’t be issues. I checked my CSI and it was negative so that’s possibly why I don’t have scale as bad as it could be.

Regarding RO, he was mostly unfamiliar except he said he knew two people who did it 7-8 years ago and it was like 5000-8000. I feel he might be mistaken or prices have come down? My current information is that it’s $800. There aren’t many who do it so maybe they price gouge.

 

[PoolStored]

What is ideal level for CYA?
My pool guy says it’s 60 for commercial pools because they need more chlorine due to bather load and that it’s 120-160 for residential pools.

Also what CH level in areas where we have hard water is generally acceptable? He said he doesn’t recommend drain/refill until people reach 1000 because if other “levels” are kept in check there shouldn’t be issues. I checked my CSI and it was negative so that’s possibly why I don’t have scale as bad as it could be.

Regarding RO, he was mostly unfamiliar except he said he knew two people who did it 7-8 years ago and it was like 5000-8000. I feel he might be mistaken or prices have come down? My current information is that it’s $800. There aren’t many who do it so maybe they price gouge.

Best place to look:
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Levels
FC/CYA Levels

 

[Donldson]

You're experiencing what happens when you try to combine pool care methods. It's nothing but conflicting information and confusion. That's why we say to pick one method and work that method. Obviously we highly encourage you to pursue TFPC because we know it works and have data on why it works, but regardless of which you choose you need to manage it in the method chosen.

IMO, this pool guy sounds completely daft. 120-160 CYA level?!? Keeping water with that CYA and 2 ppm FC is unsanitary. He has given you bad advice, doesn't understand how CYA or evaporation works, and can't even give you accurate information on his own experiences (we had plenty of people on TFP in SoCal 7-8 years ago and while it was expensive nobody said it was $5000). You can't keep going back and forth on advice, if you want him to continue managing your water then you're going to have to let him manage it. If you want to manage it to TFPC then he needs to be relieved of his work. If you disagree with my opinion of him then that's fine, but our advice for your water and his are clearly never going to match.

 

[kul]

You're experiencing what happens when you try to combine pool care methods. It's nothing but conflicting information and confusion. That's why we say to pick one method and work that method. Obviously we highly encourage you to pursue TFPC because we know it works and have data on why it works, but regardless of which you choose you need to manage it in the method chosen.

IMO, this pool guy sounds completely daft. 120-160 CYA level?!? Keeping water with that CYA and 2 ppm FC is unsanitary. He has given you bad advice, doesn't understand how CYA or evaporation works, and can't even give you accurate information on his own experiences (we had plenty of people on TFP in SoCal 7-8 years ago and while it was expensive nobody said it was $5000). You can't keep going back and forth on advice, if you want him to continue managing your water then you're going to have to let him manage it. If you want to manage it to TFPC then he needs to be relieved of his work. If you disagree with my opinion of him then that's fine, but our advice for your water and his are clearly never going to match.

Agree. Doesn’t seem like it is going to match but I like to ask so I can see the differences. He is paid through the end of the year so at the very least I will be using his service through then. Though at this point he doesn’t seem like he’s doing much.
I like this site. I have learned a lot and I think most of the information has been helpful. Don’t mean to frustrate anyone! Take care.

 

[aussieta]

He is paid through the end of the year so at the very least I will be using his service through then.

i would rather lose a couple of months of payments than have my pool in poor condition

 

[Newdude]

Hey Kul !! Don’t hesitate to ask questions. We would love to tell you the differences and steer you in the right direction. Just don’t ask questions that are leaning towards using or justifying bad advice / service. There is a huge difference between gaining knowledge and picking and choosing which tidbits you wish to follow. That might frustrate some folks, and believe me it will frustrate you too in the end.

Between here and your previous posts we have proven to be extra helpful with many members chiming in to help you, and they are all telling you the same thing with nothing to gain but the goodwill of helping another pool enthusiast. Your pool guy, or any service for that matter, cannot say that. Nor can they match this thread with photos of their pools.

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.

www.troublefreepool.com

I understand wanting to finish out the year because it’s paid for, but you’ve used 85% of your pre paid service (on Nov 9th) so you really wouldn’t be losing much to cut your losses and take control now. That remaining 15% may leave you with bigger problems to solve that require more effort/cost than you thought you were saving.

Either way, we’d love to help now, or in January.

 

[kul]

Hey Kul !! Don’t hesitate to ask questions. We would love to tell you the differences and steer you in the right direction. Just don’t ask questions that are leaning towards using or justifying bad advice / service. There is a huge difference between gaining knowledge and picking and choosing which tidbits you wish to follow. That might frustrate some folks, and believe me it will frustrate you too in the end.

Between here and your previous posts we have proven to be extra helpful with many members chiming in to help you, and they are all telling you the same thing with nothing to gain but the goodwill of helping another pool enthusiast. Your pool guy, or any service for that matter, cannot say that. Nor can they match this thread with photos of their pools.

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.

www.troublefreepool.com

I understand wanting to finish out the year because it’s paid for, but you’ve used 85% of your pre paid service (on Nov 9th) so you really wouldn’t be losing much to cut your losses and take control now. That remaining 15% may leave you with bigger problems to solve that require more effort/cost than you thought you were saving.

Either way, we’d love to help now, or in January.

Good points! I’m going to get it under control. Thank you everyone for guiding me in the right direction. I feel a bit overwhelmed and it’s likely because I’m nervous to make the jump and overwhelmed by some things. I wonder if I’m alone in this or if others had similar trepidation when starting. Anyhow I’ll post again once I have made a stride.

 

[Newdude]

. I wonder if I’m alone in this or if others had similar trepidation when starting

Every. Last. One. Of. Us. Were in your shoes. And after the fact we realized that *we* were 95% of the problem. It’s an assault of info at first and overwhelming but any iota of it is as simple as can be. With a small army of helpers. It’s EVEN easier.

To quote Oscar the Grouch…..

It’s a garbage *can*
Not a garbage *cannot*.

You got this and we got you.

 

[mknauss]

If it doesn’t pan out a drain and fill will be my only other (less preferred in my case) option.

Re read the above posts. An EXCHANGE does NOT entail draining the pool.

 

[kul]

Re read the above posts. An EXCHANGE does NOT entail draining the pool.

You are right. An exchange is different because it does not involve draining- it should be an even amount in and even amount out. My understanding from the information posted was that basically you remove water by essentially suctioning water out from the deepest part of the pool and adding new water into the pool from skimmer area (top of pool). When this is done the heavier water with all the TDS and other stuff continues to be removed while the newer “clean” water remains at top. I do like this idea a lot, if my understanding is correct because it keeps the plaster submerged. However what this still involves is disposal of at least 7500-8000 gallons of water during the course which I’d prefer to not do for drought related beliefs.

However if the RO doesn’t pan out as I am awaiting scheduling call from the company still - then I will then be left with the exchange option or drain/fill if I’m feeling gutsy.

I appreciate the guidance everyone!

 

[TampaKathy]

Kul, my build is coming to the end and I am responsible for my pool now...first pool. I feel good about being responsible for it due to all the reading I've done on here and if you have an issue and post about it, there's always someone that can help you. I didn't read thru the whole thread but make sure you get the test kit and I recommend subscribing to Pool Math...it's very helpful...you plug in your test results and it tells you what you need to do to get in range. If you haven't gotten the test kit yet...it comes with step by step directions on how to do each test.

 

[ccbill]

Now that you have decided to take the bull by the horns you should fill out your signature with your pool and equipment information. It helps us when you ask questions.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kul]

Kul, my build is coming to the end and I am responsible for my pool now...first pool. I feel good about being responsible for it due to all the reading I've done on here and if you have an issue and post about it, there's always someone that can help you. I didn't read thru the whole thread but make sure you get the test kit and I recommend subscribing to Pool Math...it's very helpful...you plug in your test results and it tells you what you need to do to get in range. If you haven't gotten the test kit yet...it comes with step by step directions on how to do each test.

Appreciate the kind words and support! Congratulations on your new pool!

 

[kul]

Hey all, have some questions about where I should be after RO. I looked at the ABCs and want to confirm I should be at the following to start:
CH: 250? More?
CYA: 40-50
FC: depends on Cya? So 3-4
PH: 7.6
TA: 60

 

[mknauss]

Those look OK. The CSI will be a bit negative with the lower TA, so let the ph rise to 8.

 

[kul]

Those look OK. The CSI will be a bit negative with the lower TA, so let the ph rise to 8.

Thanks. Should I ask for TA to be higher? And if yes, what would be the number I’d aim for? In the ABC guidance I thought TA of 60 was ideal? Is it ok to be relaxed about TA?

 

[mknauss]

TA should rise slowly as you use fill water for evaporation losses. The pH will also rise naturally. I would not chemically intervene. Just monitor your levels weekly during the winter.

 

[kul]

TA should rise slowly as you use fill water for evaporation losses. The pH will also rise naturally. I would not chemically intervene. Just monitor your levels weekly during the winter.

Do the rest of the levels I noted sound ok?

 

[mknauss]

yes. Keep the FC at or above Target for the CYA level. See FC/CYA Levels