Pentair IntelliFlo VS+SVRS

[Kneedeep47]

All,

I'm having a "debate" with my pool cleaner about RPM settings on my Pentair IntelliFlo VS-SVRS pump.

My pool equipment is sitting about three feet higher than my pool's water level, due to ground contours. I imagine that equates to a pump dynamic head of three feet (although this is a "draw" from the pool to the pump--not outlet flow back into the pool; the flow back to the pool is downhill for the same distance....)

As a rule of thumb, I'm planning for about a 1-1/2 changeover of all pool water (to include the spa) during the 10 hours/day I have to pump running.....

This is a 18,000 gallon pool, so for a 1-1/2 changeover, I'm calculating: (18,000 * 1.5) / 10 as my hourly flow need = 2,700 gallons/hour = 45 gallons/minute.

Using the chart provided with the IntelliFlo VS, I figure I can run the pump at about 1,100 RPM to meet that flow rate. (Again, that's assuming the dynamic head to pull the water from the pool is about three feet, and a 1-1/2 changeover is a good rule of thumb.)

My pool cleaner keeps saying I need to run the pump at 2,000 RPM--and that implies the pump would provide a 70 gallon/minute flow.

Perhaps I'm getting too far into the math, but I'm wondering where my assumptions and/or calculations might be wrong. I'm partly interested due to the math...but also would like to run the pump at a lower rate (1,100 RPM) to save wear on the pump, and help (slightly) my electric bill.

Help please? Are there errors in my thoughts? My pool chemicals are checked weekly, and my high-rate Pentair sand filter is backwashed frequently, so I don't think I'd be encouraging algae at the lower rate..............

 

[mknauss]

Turnover is not applicable to a residential pool.

See Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time

You need to only run your pump sufficiently to keep your pool clean and generate enough chlorine if you have a SWCG.

Be aware the VS-SVRS is very problematic as it senses entrapment when there is none. Not a good design.

To save electricity your best bet is to run your pump at as low a speed as you can to skim the pool and no more than 4 hours to keep the pool circulated. You would then get a robot to clean the pool. You could also unplug the Ozone generator as it is doing nothing for your chemistry balance.

How do you chlorinate and test your pool water? Can you add that to your signature?

 

[Jimrahbe]

kd,

You don't need to be knee-deep in Math for this one..

As Marty says, X turnovers a day is an old wives tail... Chemicals sanitize your pool and almost mix without the pump running at all... The pump only needs to run long enough to skim the surface and to run any water powered cleaners..

So, when you say "My pool cleaner keeps saying I need to run the pump at 2,000 RPM.." are you saying that the pool cleaner's manual says to run the cleaner at 2K or are you saying the pool cleaner won't run at less than 2K??

My suggest is run your pump at the lowest speed that keeps the surface skimmed and then crank up the RPM for whatever it takes to get the cleaner to work the way you want.

For reference I run my IntelliFlo SVRS at 1200 rpm because I have a SWCG. I would probably run it at 1000 rpm, if the SWCG was not installed.

I can also attest to the fact that the SVRS IntelliFlo will go into a false entrapment mode if there are any surges in the water flow. It happens to me about twice a year...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[Kneedeep47]

Thanks guys, for the comments. Three clarifications:

1. No SWG here....

2. Re: my "pool cleaner" that wants to run the pump at 2,000+ RPM....(!) I have no water-powered cleaner/robot. My "pool cleaner" comes without a manual--but his name is, in fact, Manuel (i.e, the guy who cleans my pool and adds chemicals weekly). He changes the daily schedule to run the pump at 2,000 RPM each time he comes by. Sorry if you misunderstood me, and thought I had a mechanical pool cleaner--although sometimes I think Manuel is a beer-powered robot....

3. My Clear O3 ozone generator has been retired.... After three new bulbs and two new ballast units--with no noticeable advantages to pool chemistry--I disconnected it.

 

[AftonJeeper]

"Pool cleaners" are great, I plug mine in once a week. We never bicker about anything and my beer stays in my fridge.

I run my pump at 1200 RPM 24/7 unless my heater is running or my water feature is on.

I'm going to guess if Manuel shows up once a week you are using pucks to chlorinate your pool. Does he put the pucks in the skimmer as well? That is hard on your equipment.

If you have some time read through pool school at the top of the page. A good place to start is ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. I would also recommend reading this section: Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool

 

[Jimrahbe]

kd,

If Manuel wants you to run the pump at 2000 rpm all the time, then he is just wrong... If he just wants to run it at 2k while he is vacuuming, cleaning or whatever he does, then I can't see a problem. I would set up an aux button on a egg timer function that ramps the speed up to 2K, and times out after an hour or so..

If Manuel is actually going into the ET and changing the programming, I'd start thinking about getting him a finger amputation...

Thanks for the feedback,

Jim R.

 

[Kneedeep47]

Thanks for the education, guys. I will update my signature with additional info for you'all (now that I'm living in Florida, I'm'a working on that southern drawl....)

My pool guy (Manuel) manually adds liquid chlorine once a week. I have a Pentair Rainbow Lifeguard model 320 in-line chlorine dispenser--but upon opening the canister, I found it to be bone-dry and without any chlorine tabs. I do not have a salt water system, and I have my Clear O3 disabled, so it appears the liquid chlorine (once a week) is the only chlorine treatment the pool gets.

Two questions:

1. It is proper to not use the in-line dispenser, and just rely upon the weekly liquid chlorine add? Should I start to routinely use the in-line dispenser?

2. With regard to my earlier posting (pump RPM) I have a Paramount Eco-Pool system with three floor sweep returns, and two wall returns... The 1-into-2 Paramount water valve alternates between the floor and wall returns...... I intend to up the pump RPMs to make these returns more effective (i.e., not certain the water valve internals are working at 1,300 RPM). What RPM would be good for the pump to insure the sweepers are working well? And how long should I let the pump/sweepers work (and how many times a day) at the higher RPM.

I'm still a newbie, here.....and I'll be walking on eggshells until I understand my "egg timer" settings and scheduling.....

Best of the season to you'all..............

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I think your head calculations are way off. 3 ft is simply the elevation difference and that doesn't matter when the system is primed and running. Your head loss calculations need to account for the run length of your plumbing, the head loss of your in-floor cleaning system as well as the head loss of the filter and any components in between (SWG, heater, etc). Your real head loss is quite a bit larger than 3ft and so your pump will have to run faster (depending on the pumping curve) to get the flow you want.

 

[mknauss]

Answers to questions:
1. The daily use of solid chlorine (the tablets that go in that in-line chlorinator) are not recommended. See Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool. The once a week liquid chlorine might come close to working in the winter, but it must be daily in the summer. With daily testing.
2. The pump speed that is necessary to make your cleaning system work and the time it takes it to work is the answer. Every pool and system is different. First get the RPM set so the system functions, then run it for a set period and see if that keeps the pool clean, if not, run it longer.

Take care.

 

[gary300]

I run my VS pump at 1500 RPM for only six hours a day on my 38000 gallon pool, and use daily doses of liquid Chlorine (via a Stenner pump). I have used this method for a few years now, and have never seen a hint of Allege. Crystal clear water always. There is a huge difference between summer and winter chlorine demand, so you must use a good test kit (TFP-100) to accurately measure your chlorine level freqently and adjust how much chlorine to add daily.

If you do not want to go for a SWG generator, then I highly recommend a Stenner pump. Beats manually pouring in bleach every day.