Pentair Ichlor30 and Automation

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Just backwashed and rinsed the filter. It had been a...couple months since I last did it.

I checked the pressure at 2700 RPM (the priming speed) and it was right around ~15 PSI. From what I wrote in the poolmath app back in December I believe it was right around ~12 to 12.5 PSI. If I remember reading correctly, TFP says to backwash after a 25% pressure change. Right now I'm reading just a bit over 12 after backwashing.

Water level still right above the third screw (and more rain for tonight).

I've read so many other accounts that running at 1200 rpm is fine for the salt cell, but then going back today I see some saying 1700-1800, so I guess it really just depends on the system and how it's piped. If I knew a bit more what I know now I would have had a few things done differently - but the biggest thing is making sure it just works. And if the air bubble I get now only gets that large before I ramp up for the day, then so be it!

I plan to check back in the morning and see where things are at. Let me know if you think of any other suggestions.

  • Would you re-plumb the intake to the pump from the three way valve to be 10 inches or leave it?
 
Your signature shows a Superflo VS. That is a 1.5 hp pump. Most of those running at 1200 rpm for the SWCG have an Intellflo VS. That is a 3.95 hp pump.
 
You know I didn't even think about that! I only really got to use the pool for a week or two before the water (and weather) got a bit too cold and I didn't need to really worry about the salt cell.

I also was wrong about the large air bubble causing low flow - I set the pump to 1600 today and even with a small bubble forming in the basket the flow light turned on the iChlor30. So I know the 20 GPM flow for the iChlor30 is somewhere > 1600.

The only thing I'm still semi-concerned about is the air-bubble, but if I'm running 24/7 and setting it to run higher to purge the bubble at least once a day, seems ok?
 
My Intelliflo gets a small bubble under the cover. But never gets bigger. I run mine at 1400 rpm or so most of the time.
 
Yeah I don't think mine is really small (as can be seen in the videos). I don't get air in the returns or filter. Back at the install I had the company do a pressure test and everything looked good.

The last test was adding a bit more water (about 2/3 up the skimmer). Seemed a bit better but the bubble still increases. My channel locks arrived so I want to check the union that's going into the pump. When it gets a bit less cold outside I want to try the soap bubble method again.

Running at > 2250 I don't seem to see an air bubble or the speed disperses it before I can really see it. Very frustrating.
 
Just a quick update. I had another company come out and quote for the Intelliflo VSF. This way I could use the rs485 cable to the power center and use “SmartSense” to turn the ichlor off when pump isn’t running. That and the superflo bearings went out Saturday and has been making a screeching sound. It was even worse this morning!


The new pump is installed but there must be an air leak somewhere as it won’t fully fill the basket when priming and seems to get more and more air in overtime. :mad: Its weird, when the pump is running it sounds like running water in the pump itself. A bit frustrating but they are coming back tomorrow.

While I know the chances are small that an explosion could happen, I still feel better having this thing hooked up to it to shut it off when not in use.
 
Hi all,

I have the IntelliFlo VSF installed and the RS-485 cable hooked up to the PC100 power center of the iChlor30.

For reference I'm referring to this:

1616602777955.png

Now the intelliflo pump does not let me control it - says display not active for address 1. Anything I'm missing? On the phone with Pentair support but they didn't even know this could be done....

Update: Seems to be working better now? I can control it but occasionally it goes into the display not active state, then switches back to the regular screen.
 
Last edited:
We have seen a few features around Pentair's automation that are in the manuals but when folks try and make them work they are told that feature is not available yet.

I would push Pentair support to escalate your problem to engineering. It sounds like this new feature is buggy.

@Jimrahbe
 
B,

When the pump is connected to an automation system the pump's display will say "Display not Active".. I am guessing here, but assume it will say "Display not active" showing it is connected to your IChlor, but then switch back so you can run your pump. I have no clue what that cycle time might be..

I suggest that you program your pump for all the speeds and times you want to run and THEN connect the IChlor.. In theory, the pump should run your programming, no matter what the display says..

We don't see many IChlor installs, so once you get it running we would appreciate your feedback on how it works and what all you needed to do to get it to work..

The IntelliFlo is a great pump, but even though it will work standalone, it was designed to be controlled by a Pentair Automation system.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yep will post some pics of the setup. I do know it’s working in “standalone” mode as I can see the blinking flow light on the iChlor30 (per manual). Like you said, there might be a cycle time but so far it’s it’s letting me into the main screen to control it. I’m planning on setting the schedule pretty soon. The eventual goal is to move to an automation system but it was very pricey (quoted 2500 + 1000 for electrical) so trying this way first.

One thing that’s fairly noticeable compared to the SuperFlo is that the priming speed seems to stop after a minute or so whereas the SuperFlo always ran for the 5 minutes. Even when it finishes prime, I still have a bit of air in the lid cavity. I’m now running it at 1700 rpm to see if that bubble increases anymore. It did last night quite a bit. I’ve since backwashed the filter and had the pool company install a bypass valve for the heater. I set the max rpm to 2700 as I was worried going to a 3HP pump I could cause issues with the equipment. Just weird that running higher rpms doesn’t completely eliminate the air.

Something doesn’t feel completely right though. I’m hearing a “running water” sound at the pump and the filter (SD80). The owner said to check back on it later today to see if the bubble increases.
 
Do you have the IntelliFlo VSF or the SuperFlow VST that is in your signature?

An air bubble when running at low speeds is normal in a VS pump.

Priming is different for different VS pumps but lets pin down which one you have.
 
B,

Did they install your IntelliFlo with unions??

I have three IntelliFlos that all have a few bubble under lid when running at about 1200 rpm (No heater).. They disappear very quickly when the speed gets about 1800 or so.. They have never caused me any issues and don't continue to get bigger..

Sounds to me like you have a suction side air leak.. The most likely causes are...

O-ring under the pump lid bad, or not lubed.
Leak at the threaded couple to the pump
Leak at Intake Jandy valves..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
They did not use unions, threaded pvc with silicone I think?

Allen this is the new Intelliflo VSF that was just installed. I am fine with some air in at lower speeds but it is odd that there is some when it primes. I can take a video of what it’s currently doing if that will help.

I did clean the lid and lubed the o-ring. I can do it again and check with some soap/bubbles around the valve and unions.
 
Bluthgg said:
Allen this is the new Intelliflo VSF that was just installed. I am fine with some air in at lower speeds but it is odd that there is some when it primes. I can take a video of what it’s currently doing if that will help.
Click to expand...

Below is a clip from the manual that explains how priming works on the VSF.

You can go hunting for a suction side air leak but as long as the air bubble does not grow to where it is blowing air out of the returns and the bubble gets smaller as you increase RPMs then I say it is normal.

911F05C9-9D53-4EDA-8780-291F5F5A1437.png

911F05C9-9D53-4EDA-8780-291F5F5A1437.png

 
Thanks Allen! I think I might need to adjust the limit and prime speed up a bit. I also adjusted the priming range from 5 to 3 to see if it would fill all the little cavities in the lid.

Running at 2750 I can't seem to get ALL the air out. It does dissipate though. I have the pump limited to 2750 as I was worried I was going to blow something up going from a 1.5 to a 3 HP pump. Max PSI I see on filter at 2750 is right around 16 PSI.

Here is a quick vid after running to purge some of the air then setting back down to 1350 RPM (trying to find the lowest I can go for the SWCG) --> IntelliFlo Noise/Air Video

Does it look/sound ok?

Running at 1350 shows so little pressure at the filter! I do seem to get decent flow in the skimmer/returns and the SWCG hasn't complained yet. I'm not sure how accurate the IntelliFlo display is for PSI/GPM (PSI is off compared to filter).

1616617878613.png

@Jimrahbe here is a video of the iChlor30 operating when connected to the IntelliFlo pump (via the power center) --> iChlor30 SmartSense. You can see the blinking of the flow light to indicate it's in communication. I'm not sure what else is supposed to happen if I stop the pump. I just see a blinking red light on the flow indicator. You are also correct on the display - there seems to be a cadence on the display. I'm still in manual mode so I will see what it looks like with an actual schedule put in.
 
Bluthgg said:
Here is a quick vid after running to purge some of the air then setting back down to 1350 RPM (trying to find the lowest I can go for the SWCG) --> IntelliFlo Noise/Air Video

Does it look/sound ok?
Click to expand...

That bubble looks fine to me.

Bluthgg said:
Running at 1350 shows so little pressure at the filter! I do seem to get decent flow in the skimmer/returns and the SWCG hasn't complained yet. I'm not sure how accurate the IntelliFlo display is for PSI/GPM (PSI is off compared to filter).
Click to expand...

Low pressure is fine at low RPM. My filter pressure is about 4 at 1800 rpm. Rely on your filter PSI gauge.
 
Bluthgg said:
Running at 1350 shows so little pressure at the filter!
Click to expand...
B,

My filter pressure when running at 1200 rpm is about 1 to 2 lbs.. Filter pressure is backwards from what most thing.. High is bad and low is good.. Filter pressure is really the amount of effort it takes to force water through your filter.

I have no idea what that sound is in your video... :scratch: My pumps do not have it.. Also, I can't tell in the video.. my basket is full of water and any bubbles that I do have are between the top of the basket and the lid.. It seems like the water level in your pump is not above the basket.. ??? Not sure if that is true or just the video.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Last edited:
I believe the water level is above basket, air just in the little cavities of the lid.

Yes, agree about the PSI - just seemed super low!

Yeah the noise is a bit odd - I’m out of troubleshooting steps at the moment. Going to let system run for a bit. at least it’s not the squealing that the SuperFlo developed.
 
@Jimrahbe could the noise be from too little back pressure?

I did a quick test with the new heater bypass valve and restricted the flow a bit from the filter and the noise seemed to go away or at least was severely reduced.

Is there anything else I can do to help this besides restricting flow? Maybe close one of the three returns?
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply