Overwhelmed

Should I do the non-diluted test again?
Apologies, not trying to be difficult. I'm recording/reporting these results to the best of my ability, but the CYA one in particular seems to be the trickiest.
 
Should I do the non-diluted test again?
Apologies, not trying to be difficult. I'm recording/reporting these results to the best of my ability, but the CYA one in particular seems to be the trickiest.

CYA of 30 versus CYA of 100 is a big difference and hard to get confused.


CYA_End_Point.png
 
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Thanks for the link. I was performing the test while watching the dot as I poured, rather than filling to each line and then checking. It's also quite possible that I was interpreting the bottom of the tube as a faint outline of the dot. I'll try the original, non-diluted test again and report back with my results.
 
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My regular CYA test again gave me a result of 100.
Before I waste any more reagent, can someone confirm how to properly perform the diluted test?

My bottle has a low marking of 7.5ml, a middle marking of 15ml, and an upper marking of 30ml.
How much pool water do I start with, which line do I fill to with tap water, and how much should I let out before filling with reagent?
 

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What is your goal? a CYA of 50? If so pump out about 40-50% of your water retest when it is full.
Do you have this kit for CYA? The bottle tells you where to fill it to on the label.

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At this point, my goal is simply to provide those in the thread with accurate test results so that I can get some guidance on next steps.

I have the similar, but distinct bottle which came with the TF-100. I have attached a photo below, but there are 3 markers (low, middle, high).

The instructions for the normal/non-diluted test are quite clear. Fill to 15ml with pool water, fill to 30ml with reagent.

However, Step 8 here for the diluted CYA test says the following:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water. (my question is, is the lower mark 7.5ml or 15ml?)
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water. (to 30ml or 15ml?)
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark. (based on the non-diluted test, I would think "lower mark" here means 15ml, but since 7.5ml is lower than that, I just want to be sure.)
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
Hopefully these aren't stupid questions. I really just want to understand and perform these tests properly so you all can help me effectively and so I'm not dumping reagents down the drain needlessly.
 

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The regular mix needs to be 50/50 pool and R0013. The TF 100 has a 30ml tube and the TFpro uses a 15ml tube. So you need the full squirt bottle with half pool water and half R-0013 to 30ml for a normal test.

To do the diluted test, mix up a 50/50 of pool and tap water. (15ml each). Dump half the bottle and fill with R0013. Double the result.
 
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Thanks for bearing with me.
We all had to figure it out and we exist to help it suck less for others. Please ask at any time. Or ask 10 times if thats what you need. :)
CYA: 120 (
Ok so you need to exchange/drain half the pool. You need to leave 18 inches in the shallow end to hold the liner in place. Multiple drains lose new water with the old and lose efficiency. Consider an exchange instead of a drain. Read the draining article in the TFP Wiki which is linked towards the bottom of the page.
 
Alright. Given what I'm working with, I think my preferred approach is to drain by vacuuming to Waste.
It's extremely hot & sunny this week, so I worry about my vinyl liner getting damaged if I expose it to much. Is that a sound fear?

I could set a vacuum head in one area and fill from the garden hose in another (hose water is at least 10 degrees colder than pool water at this point).

I know cold water sinks, so if I place the vacuum in the shallow end and fill in the deep end, would that prevent mixing? Or do I have that backwards? I've been filling while vacuuming to waste just about daily up to this point.
 
A submersible pump will give you better control to match the fill flow. With a standard nozzle or shutoff, you can adjust the output so the water level remains about the same. Every pool owner should have a submersible, when they come in handy, they are worth their weight in gold.


Let's call you @mknauss for maths on where you want to drain and fill. I'm not in a good spot for advanced calculations at the moment. Lol.
 
Have you read Draining - Further Reading ?

Run through the information there and make the determination on where to drain/fill from.
Yes, I read through. That's what led me to believe I should be filling from deep and draining from shallow. I didn't do any specific calculations, although I could if necessary. However, it wasn't clear how to calculate TDS for the pool or the fill water.

@newdude I was looking at this pump since it's low-cost and has a garden hose attachment. Not sure if it has a standard nozzle or shutoff as you suggested, though.
 
TDS is primarily salt, calcium, and CYA. Your fill water likely has only a 200 or so TDS. So it is likely the TDS of your pool water is well above that. If you have been using liquid chlorine for awhile your salt is likely at or near 1000.

The temperature difference dominates the equation. If your fill water is substantially cooler than the pool water, like over 20 degF difference, then add the water to the deep end and pump out of the shallow end. Once you start, do not stop.
 

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