Overwhelmed with starting over & doing this on my own.

[Xuna]

So I have decided to use TFP and all of you to learn how to manage my pool without the help of the pool store. I am currently in the process of draining my 31,000 in-ground pool because I have been fighting cloudy water since I opened up 3 weeks ago. I have dumped so much stuff in my pool as advised by my pool store. Absolutely nothing they told me to do worked and I've already spend over $500 trying to fix it. In frustration, I googled my problems and found TFP.

Here is where the panic on my part begins. After the pool is drained and refilled I will test the water with some strips I just purchased. How do I even begin to know how much of each recommended pool product do I add?

 

[dianedebuda]

The wizards here will first tell you that the strips are unreliable. Get the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006 because 1) it will give you results you can trust 2) this will give you and the wizs a common frame of reference so they'll know what you need without wasting time & $.

They'll need to know the specifics about your pool, so the best place to put them is in your signature (part of your Account details).

With the test results & pool info, you'll be able to use the PoolMath calculator to know what to add to the water. There's also an app alternative. Many wizs here will be happy to hold your hand.

Study Pool School, particularly the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry right now.

We all started just like you, so you've tons of company. Welcome to TFP!

​

 

[mknauss]

How do I even begin to know how much of each recommended pool product do I add?

As diane* stated, you need to order a proper test kit now. You can get by for few days but get it ordered now.

When the pool is full, add 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine. Start 40 ppm CYA worth of dry stabilizer dissolving using the sock method.
Add 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine to the pool every evening with the pump running. When you get your test kit, run a full suite of tests and post them here.

Please do not use the test strips to make any chemical addition decisions.

Also, draining a pool has risks. What type of pool is this? Only a gunite/plaster pool can be fully drained, and even those have risk primarily to popping out of the ground if there is a high water table.

 

[Xuna]

As diane* stated, you need to order a proper test kit now. You can get by for few days but get it ordered now.

When the pool is full, add 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine. Start 40 ppm CYA worth of dry stabilizer dissolving using the sock method.
Add 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine to the pool every evening with the pump running. When you get your test kit, run a full suite of tests and post them here.

Please do not use the test strips to make any chemical addition decisions.

Also, draining a pool has risks. What type of pool is this? Only a gunite/plaster pool can be fully drained, and even those have risk primarily to popping out of the ground if there is a high water table.

I have a 31,000 ga vinyl in ground pool. It is about 1/3 drained as of now. Pool is 8.5 feet deep and still can't see the bottom. I did have it completely drained 2 years ago when I got a new liner. Had it filled with trucked in water. Using 2 hoses this time.

 

[mknauss]

If you go any further with a vinyl liner pool the chance of destroying the liner is high. I would be very wary of doing what you are doing.

 

[AK-]

I have a 31,000 ga vinyl in ground pool. It is about 1/3 drained as of now. Pool is 8.5 feet deep and still can't see the bottom. I did have it completely drained 2 years ago when I got a new liner. Had it filled with trucked in water. Using 2 hoses this time.

You need to keep at least 1’ (preferably 2’) of water on the shallow end to avoid the liner shifting. If your liner shifts in the best case scenario you will end up with wrinkles and in worst case it may tear up. So, unless you are going to replace the liner again don’t completely drain the pool.

 

[Xuna]

You need to keep at least 1’ (preferably 2’) of water on the shallow end to avoid the liner shifting. If your liner shifts in the best case scenario you will end up with wrinkles and in worst case it may tear up. So, unless you are going to replace the liner again don’t completely drain the pool.

thank you

 

[Xuna]

If you go any further with a vinyl liner pool the chance of destroying the liner is high. I would be very wary of doing what you are doing.

If you go any further with a vinyl liner pool the chance of destroying the liner is high. I would be very wary of doing what you are doing.

My shallow end is now clear, but the deep end is not. Adding water will dilute the bad water. Is that a good way to go instead of completely draining.

 

[AK-]

Is it green or just cloudy?

You might already get a good dilution where you are, but if you want to further remove “bad” water you will need to add new water at the same time, in the same rate and in a way that does not disturb the deep end too much.

There are several things that can make water cloudy including unbalanced chemicals, algae and FLOC. Did you add any FLOC? If so, you are going to need to vacuum it out of the bottom.

 

[AK-]

Here is where the panic on my part begins. After the pool is drained and refilled I will test the water with some strips I just purchased. How do I even begin to know how much of each recommended pool product do I add?

With TFPC you are going to need very few products. You will most of the time be better off getting them on Walmart, Lowe’s, Homedepot, etc.

Here is what you are going to need:
- A reliable and Test Kits Compared
- CYA/Stablizer: Since you are refilling you need to add some CYA back in order to avoid sunlight to almost instantly burning all you chlorine. Liquid is best, but granular can be added with the sock method.
- Liquid Chlorine (Either Pool Chlorinator Liquid/Shock or Plain unscented non-splashless without any additives Bleach. No Clorox or other “technologies” to make laundry better): Liquid Chlorine is the only way to chlorinate your pool without adding stuff that will require you to drain it again. You are going to need a LOT of it, but don’t stockpile too much as LC looses streng

Here are the other things you may have to use:
- Muriatic Acid: To lower your pH if it drifts up too far.
- Baking Soda or 20 Mule Team Borax: To increase either pH or TA. Borax will also add borates to the water.

You should most definitely go over the articles on the Pool School. There is a wealth of knowledge there. Including Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool and Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool

 

[Xuna]

Is it green or just cloudy?

You might already get a good dilution where you are, but if you want to further remove “bad” water you will need to add new water at the same time, in the same rate and in a way that does not disturb the deep end too much.

There are several things that can make water cloudy including unbalanced chemicals, algae and FLOC. Did you add any FLOC? If so, you are going to need to vacuum it out of the bottom.

I was thinking about both adding water while still pumping water out. My pool store had me dump in about 80 bags of Burnout to fix a chlorine demand because of phosphates. The clarity of the pool did not improve with all of that. Phosphates problem fixed. Into week 3 of fixing the water fight I put Sparkle Up for a filter aid. It did nothing at all. Draining the pool was my only fix because I have poor suction to vac. I did have the pump and filter check and they said it was fine. They did tell me I could put in Floc, but without good suction, I wasn't doing that. I turned the pump off last night and this morning the shallow end with about 10" of water was crystal clear, but the deep end was still cloudy. Can see the sides but not the bottom of deep end. I did start adding water this morning with 2 hoses hoping I can now dilute whatever is going on in the deep end. My filter is a Hayward S310T with glass. My pool is a Utopia Pool, which they no longer make. When the pump died for the 6th time with the Utopia pump, they replumbed and put on the Hayward and a pump. I am constantly running and cleaning my Maytonics vac.

 

[mknauss]

You need to follow the SLAM Process when you get your pool filled back up. All the chatter about chlorine demand and phosphates is just junk. Typical pool store blather.

Get your proper test kit.

Once you get the pool filled back up, add 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day until you get your test kit.

 

[kimkats]

You are on your way now! Glad you asked questions before you took all of the water out. We can and will get your water clean and clear with your help.

Which test kit did you order?

Since you are not draining all of the way I would NOT add any CYA aka stablizer as we don't know how much you will have left after mixing the old and new water up.

Can you please fill in your signature? Go up to your name, click on in. That will bring down a drop down window. Go to signature. Put in kind of pool (inground vinyl), size in gallons, kind of filter and what is in it, any other special features your pool may have. Also list which test kit you get so we know what you are working with.

Look down at my signature to find the "recommended chemicals" link. You will love this one! That is what we use on our pools IF needed. Do not go buy any of them just yet. See what TFP teaches is to only buy and use what YOUR pool needs. Your pool might not need most of what is listed on that link.

One thing your pool WILL need is chlorine. Liquid chlorine is what you will need for now. See if a pool store has it in stock. That is the ONLY thing you will buy from them. Everything else can be bought from Target, Walmart, Lowes, etc. How neat is that???

 

[Xuna]

You are on your way now! Glad you asked questions before you took all of the water out. We can and will get your water clean and clear with your help.

Which test kit did you order?

Since you are not draining all of the way I would NOT add any CYA aka stablizer as we don't know how much you will have left after mixing the old and new water up.

Can you please fill in your signature? Go up to your name, click on in. That will bring down a drop down window. Go to signature. Put in kind of pool (inground vinyl), size in gallons, kind of filter and what is in it, any other special features your pool may have. Also list which test kit you get so we know what you are working with.

Look down at my signature to find the "recommended chemicals" link. You will love this one! That is what we use on our pools IF needed. Do not go buy any of them just yet. See what TFP teaches is to only buy and use what YOUR pool needs. Your pool might not need most of what is listed on that link.

One thing your pool WILL need is chlorine. Liquid chlorine is what you will need for now. See if a pool store has it in stock. That is the ONLY thing you will buy from them. Everything else can be bought from Target, Walmart, Lowes, etc. How neat is that???

I ordered the TF-100 kit. I filled in my signature. Not an expert on the pool equipment. I always relied on the pool store to know what I had.

You guys are absolutely AWESOME! Thank you for the help!

 

[mknauss]

Take pictures of your equipment pad and post them. Close up on labels, etc.

 

[kimkats]

Well done! While you are waiting on the test kit to get there keep filling up the pool and add liquid chlorine (about 1 gallon) each day. Run the pump 24/7 once the pool is full enough to help clear up what was left in the old water.

Lets also talk about the glass in the filter. I think you need to take it out and clean it extra good. I would take it out and put it in a wheelbarrow. That way you can turn it over and over to get every thing off it. Now if you don't want to do that you can do a big back wash but you will lost some new water.

Kim

 

[Xuna]

Well done! While you are waiting on the test kit to get there keep filling up the pool and add liquid chlorine (about 1 gallon) each day. Run the pump 24/7 once the pool is full enough to help clear up what was left in the old water.

Lets also talk about the glass in the filter. I think you need to take it out and clean it extra good. I would take it out and put it in a wheelbarrow. That way you can turn it over and over to get every thing off it. Now if you don't want to do that you can do a big back wash but you will lost some new water.

Kim

I'll go for losing some water at this point. With my 2 sons' wedding coming soon and vacation, along with work, just don't have the extra time. I will make sure it gets done correctly. Thank you so much Kim.

 

[kimkats]

2 sons' wedding coming soon

Say what???? Back story please!!!

I support your thinking of back washing it then!

 

[Xuna]

Take pictures of your equipment pad and post them. Close up on labels, etc.

I don't think I have enough filtration power.

 

[Pv2]

looks to me like you have plenty of filter, biggest is usually best but with TFP people even manage on the little intex toys, so read and take the advice given here. don't panic, your water looks fine compared to some! LOL you will be so amazed at what YOU can do yourself!