%Output does not match the adjustment knob

[eengrms]

First post here so hi, and forgive me if this is a common issue. I searched but didn't seem to find much. I am having an issue with my Aquarite system. The system was installed in 2013 and I'm still on my original T-15 cell. We are in a Midwestern climate so we only use the pool five months a year. I recently replaced the thermistor (for the second time). Salt levels and instant salinity are both at 3200. Last time we checked the real salt levels it was pretty close to that, so that portion seems to be functioning correctly.

The issue now is that the % desired output on the display fluctuates from 8P to 11P, switching back and forth every couple seconds. It does this regardless of the knob position, and does not change when I turn the knob. I don't have any automation equipment installed. When I switch it to super chlorinate it will say 100P and stay there. We are also getting very low residual chlorine levels in the pool, so it's clear the system is not running very much.

Any ideas?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
Run the diagnostics as described in this article and post them here.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[JamesW]

You might need a new display board.

Electronics cleaner might help if you remove the display board and spray it with cleaner and allow it to dry well.

CRC 11 oz. QD Electronic Cleaner 05103 - The Home Depot

CRC's QD Electronic Cleaner is a petroleum distillate/alcohol based precision cleaner designed as an alternative to CFC based cleaners. This is a fast drying formula. This product works well on circuit

www.homedepot.com

 

[laprjns]

Maybe a bad adjustment knob potentiometer. Did you get any moisture on the board recently? I had a similar issue with the adjustment knob on my Crystal Pure SWG (which is a clone of the Aquarite system) after leaving the door to the controller box opened during a storm. Although I bought a replacement display board, I did confirm that replacing the potentiomenter in the damage board fixed the problem. See my responses in this thread.

Also, you should be able to chlorinate the pool by switching to super chlorinate and adjusting pump run time.

 

[RJ-45]

I have extra display board you can borrow to test if electronics cleaner does not fix your problem, actually they come from Crystal Pure SWG (which is a clone of the Aquarite system) laprjns mentioned.

I am very sure your pot is bad, if you can solder, you can just replace it, see the link above.

 

[eengrms]

You might need a new display board.

Electronics cleaner might help if you remove the display board and spray it with cleaner and allow it to dry well.

CRC 11 oz. QD Electronic Cleaner 05103 - The Home Depot

CRC's QD Electronic Cleaner is a petroleum distillate/alcohol based precision cleaner designed as an alternative to CFC based cleaners. This is a fast drying formula. This product works well on circuit

www.homedepot.com

Thanks for the reply. I will try the cleaner and see if it helps. I assumed the display board was likely the culprit since that's where the adjuster knob was, but wasn't sure if the main board could also be the problem.

 

[eengrms]

Maybe a bad adjustment knob potentiometer. Did you get any moisture on the board recently? I had a similar issue with the adjustment knob on my Crystal Pure SWG (which is a clone of the Aquarite system) after leaving the door to the controller box opened during a storm. Although I bought a replacement display board, I did confirm that replacing the potentiomenter in the damage board fixed the problem. See my responses in this thread.

Also, you should be able to chlorinate the pool by switching to super chlorinate and adjusting pump run time.

Thanks for the link. I will take a look if the cleaner option doesn't work. It also looks like I can get a fairly inexpensive generic display board off Amazon for it. I don't think it got wet as I am pretty careful to keep the door closed, but you never know. The super chlorinate function does work as it's reading 6A on the cell, so it is a good backup. Just wish it didn't have a 24hr clock on it. We only run our pump about 8hrs/day so we typically keep the knob around 100 anyway.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

I am with JamesW on this. The % output potentiometer on the Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP is a 4-Terminal,10k with D-Shaft. Terminal 1 is Negative, #3 is 5Vdc and #2 or #4 or both is variable and either one is a dummy!
At this time, I cannot justify to break open a good pot to confirm the pinout. However, a direct fit replacement pot is available, you just have to do the leg work. Or better yet, replace the dsp bd.
And please be aware, the replacement pot other members are referring to in the above link will not fit the OEM dsp bd.

 

[laprjns]

And please be aware, the replacement pot other members are referring to in the above link will not fit the OEM dsp bd.

Yes, looking at that board with the knob removed, it's a 4 pin potentiometer, not a three pin like the one I replaced on my board. It is interesting that the Blue Works generic replacement display board available on Amazon for $83 does use the 3 pin potentiometer. There appear to be other differences from the OEM board. Are there operational differences between the two boards that @eengrms should be aware of?

 

[RJ-45]

I have both boards here (OEM and generic), they are 100% the same.

The only difference I have seen so far, is older generic allow you to change temp from F to C.

Recent ones I got seems not able to change the units.

They function 100 % the same, other than the generic is much cheaper, I would let you borrow one for testing if needed.

 

[RJ-45]

They may be designed with different Pots, but they are completely interchangeable, I have done that many times and both ways.View attachment 347929

 

[eengrms]

Quick follow-up. I ordered the Blue Works generic board from Amazon above and it's been in an running for about a day now without issue. I actually prefer it over the OEM board as the LEDs are brighter, the tactile response from the button is better, and the adjustment knob works flawlessly. The only negative is the off/auto/SC switch isn't as solid, but it works fine.

Thank you guys for your help!