No waste option on filter

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Michellekariemma

Member
Jul 4, 2019
12
Quebec, Canada
Hi there,

We just purchased a new home and the pool filter has no option for “waste”. I need to vacuum on the waste setting, is there another option I can use?
We have: Filter, Rinse, Whirlpool, Backwash, Winterize, and Drain.

Should I be vacuuming on Rinse?

(Not sure if it will help but, it’s an above ground pool... 39,400 L .. 21 feet .. sand filter.
We have done everything we can to clear the water, the levels are all good according to the water analysis I did today: alkalinity 104ppm, calcium hardness 302 ppm, pH 7.4, Stab 46 ppm .. chlorine is high because we just shocked it 48 hrs ago free chlorine was at 10.02 when we tested this morning.
Anyways, nothing is getting our water clear, we were given the Floc “magic potion” to try. It says to let it settle for 12 hours with pump turned off and then vacuum to waste, but we don’t have the waste setting on our filter. Any advice will be appreciated!)
 

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Rinse to to reset the sand after a backwash so no you cannot use it.........................The one I wonder about is the "drain" option. I have done a couple of searches but need your model # to dial it in. You can also see if the drain will bypass the filter which is what you want.
 
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I would just unscrew the hose going into the filter and attach a waste hose to it so you can direct where you want the water to go. You will need to plug the opening on the filter so your water doesn't run out, or you can attach another section of hose and run that back to the pool.
 
kimkats said:
Rinse to to reset the sand after a backwash so no you cannot use it.........................The one I wonder about is the "drain" option. I have done a couple of searches but need your model # to dial it in. You can also see if the drain will bypass the filter which is what you want.
Click to expand...
That’s what I thought too, the pool guy recommended rinse ... thought I’d ask here first and I’m glad I did because I wouldn’t want to muck up my filter with floc. I’ve used the drain setting before when I had to vacuum out algae, I saw the green water run through the pump but not sure it ran through the filter ... I will update and get the filter number and send it!
For now I’m holding off on the floc ... the pool is slowly showing improvements so I’m going to try to vacuum and backwash for a few days and see if it clears before I try to floc.
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Don't try FLOC!! Its a mess, rarely seems to work the way they claim it will, and is a pain to get out of the pool and filter if it gets in there. Run!

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up! They seem to sell these as “quick fix” solutions ... I bought it as I’m desperate to swim, it’s hot and 7 months pregnant. I will try to just vacuum and backwash over the next few days to see if it clears. All of my levels are in the proper range, could the cloudiness of my pool indicate a problem with my filter?
The previous home owners said the sand was changed last summer (2018). Everything appears to be running fine. I’m not sure what else we can do.
 
YippeeSkippy said:
What are you chemistry levels??
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

What are you using to chlorinate, and what did you add when you said you "shocked" the pool??

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...

As of yesterday:
FC 1.07
CC 1.26 ppm
pH 7.3
TA 86 ppm
CH 254 ppm
CYA 38 ppm ...

Just did a shock kit that included chlorine and algicide remover. The previous home owners did not do a cleaning before opening the pool this spring. When we moved in, they said it was treated and ready to go and they did a shock which is why it was cloudy. We went to get the water evaluated and added all of our products to get everything levelled out. No matter what we try, the water is still cloudy even though everything is levelled. When I vacuum on drain, I can see through the pump that there is still algae at the bottom.
Yesterday I used my vacuum brush, not connected to the pool, and scrubbed as hard as I could the bottom and sides to remove all the algae. After doing this, the water in the pool turned green (which I was told would happen) I purchased an extra strong shock treatment that included chlorine (90%) she said plus it had an algicide. At this point I don’t know what to do anymore and my husband doesn’t want to put anymore money into the pool.
I wish we would have known from the beginning that the vacuuming and cleaning after winter was not done.
What do you recommend I can do to clear the water? Is it possible to get clear water at this point? Pump and filter are running fine. It’s just cloudy, cloudy, cloudy no matter what ....
*** Edited to add photos, first one was after I scrubbed everything yesterday and it turned green from the algae caked at the bottom - was around 1:30pm. Second photo is this morning 7:30 am, it looks better but still cloudy and I know it won’t get clearer than this ... this is as good as it gets and it just never clears!
 

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crusemm said:
Your FC is too low, Also not sure where the CYA is coming from, usually it's in units of 10's.
FC/CYA Chart
The cloudiness is probably algae
Need to perform SLAM
Click to expand...

Looks like pool store tests. OP is in Canada and cannot easily obtain a recommended test kit. Very difficult to do the SLAM Process without a FAS/DPD chlorine test.

The proper levels of chlorine can clear the water. Tossing in pool store mixes are unlikely to do the job.





 

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ajw22 said:
Looks like pool store tests. OP is in Canada and cannot easily obtain a recommended test kit. Very difficult to do the SLAM Process without a FAS/DPD chlorine test.

The proper levels of chlorine can clear the water. Tossing in pool store mixes are unlikely to do the job.





Click to expand...

How can I do the SLAM process without the recommended type of test? Is there a way? Do you know what options I have in Canada?
I thought CYA was the Stability? I will have to go back and read the A,B,Cs ... my stability is at 38 ppm.
I just found some test strips (I know they are not accurate and cannot give a numbered reading) but CYA is on it and the colour says it’s in good range according to the chart.
 
Best option is to have a recommended test kit delivered to a US address by the border and have someone take it over the border. That seems to be what most Canadian members eventually do to use TFPC methods.

The SLAM Process is basically keeping enough FC in the water until all algae is killed. It is difficult knowing how much chlorine you need without testing the water periodically. And it takes FC levels over 10 which pool store tests and strips cannot do.

Stabilizer is another name for the chemical that contains the CYA. 40 (we round up) is a good CYA level if the test is accurate. You should not let your CYA get above that.

What is the feasibility of draining and starting fresh?
 
ajw22 said:
Best option is to have a recommended test kit delivered to a US address by the border and have someone take it over the border. That seems to be what most Canadian members eventually do to use TFPC methods.

The SLAM Process is basically keeping enough FC in the water until all algae is killed. It is difficult knowing how much chlorine you need without testing the water periodically. And it takes FC levels over 10 which pool store tests and strips cannot do.

Stabilizer is another name for the chemical that contains the CYA. 40 (we round up) is a good CYA level if the test is accurate. You should not let your CYA get above that.

What is the feasibility of draining and starting fresh?
Click to expand...
I will see if I can find somebody, but we are a few hours north of the border :( ....
Feasibility of starting fresh doesn’t look promising as we have already put in close to $250 in products ...
May just have to wait until next year if there is no other way.
 
With a CYA of 40 your FC should be 5-7 on a regular basis. See FC/CYA Levels

Definitely try and keep your FC that high as best as you can measure it or estimate it using PoolMath

Check it regularly. Do you have any test kit other than the test strips?

[/FC_CYA]
 
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A test like this tests FC up to 5. Not as accurately as a FAS/DPD test but better than test strips. You can play a dilution game if you get a measuring beaker and accurately add 1/2 tap water to 1/2 pool water. Then double your reading. It will not be very accurate but give you a ball park for where your FC is at.

Also test your tap water if it is from a municipal source as it may have some CL in it.

Note that pH readings are not valid when FC is over 10.

www.poolstorecanada.ca

5-Way OTO, Chlorine/Bromine, Alkalinity, Acid & pH Pool Test Kit

The Blue Devil way test kit has all you need for a healthy pool this summer. Test Kit with a handy Case testing Chlorine, Bromine, Alkalinity, Acid and pH
www.poolstorecanada.ca www.poolstorecanada.ca

SEOH Beaker Borosilicate Glass Low Form Graduated 25ml Each: Amazon.com: Gateway

SEOH Beaker Borosilicate Glass Low Form Graduated 25ml Each: Amazon.com: Gateway
www.amazon.com
 
You can buy test kits in Canada but due to a monopoly on distribution they are more than double the price! Same with LaMotte kit.
Click to expand...

Could someone in US Order and then ship across? or does it have to be hand carried?
 
crusemm said:
Could someone in US Order and then ship across? or does it have to be hand carried?
Click to expand...

That is between the shipper and Canadian Customs.

Retail outlets follow Taylors shipping restrictions.
 

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