No chlorine

[Ti3155]

Hello. So on top of all the problems I'm going through I'd like someone's advice on my SWG.

I have pentair 3 month old.
The pool open (brand new) on April 15th 2021 , the person who treat my poll start it with chlorine tablets at the skimmer until 30 days passed , after 30 days we start running the SWG (pentair IC20) MY Pool is plaster with 15k volume.

My pool cleaning guy asked me why my SWG does not produce any chlorine (or very very low)

I added pucks every time when I see the chlorine level was under 1ppm.

So I called pentair they asked me questions about the led indicator lights on the cell, I see the flow green , the cell set at 80% or 100% and the salt level is 3500.
The "cell" light is on and off as producing chlorine.

I'm not getting the chlorine into the pool , I went to the store and they analyzed the water, see image , pentair told me there 0.4ppm of copper in my water , do you think this will effect the SWG from producing chlorine.
It's still under warranty.

I haven't clean the cell , I opened and looked inside but I don't see any buildup its very clean (maybe I'm missing something)

No "clean" indicator light is on ,

I'm not sure what to do .

The ph is high because of the salt added 24 hours before the test and I also have spillway spa running 24/7 I can't add another actuator because all 4 slots are used .

I can add manual value to close the spillway but im not sure If I want .

What your thoughts?
Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Your IC20 is too small for your pool and cannot generate enough chlorine in 24 hours.

What brand pucks are you using? Does it say “blue” on the label? If so it is adding copper in your water.

Stop using pucks due to the copper and your CYA is getting too high. You need to use liquid chlorine to chlorinate your pool until you get your SWG sorted out.

Read Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

You need to get your own test kit to fix your water chemistry problems. Either the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. Read Test Kits Compared

You may have a developing algae problem consuming your chlorine considering your low FC. Once you get your test kit you should do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

Raise your FC to recommended levels using liquid chlorine.

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Follow the FC/CYA Levels for a liquid chlorine pool…

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

Read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Bperry]

Should also test your own water to find out whether the store test numbers are accurate or not.

 

[Ti3155]

Thanks for the replay , I wonder why IC20 is too small If My pool is right under 15k gallons , thanks

 

[ajw22]

Thanks for the replay , I wonder why IC20 is too small If My pool is right under 15k gallons , thanks

We recommend a SWG cell be at least 2X the pool volume. The IC20 is approproate for a pool that is under 10,000 gallons.

You say you run the cell at 80%-100% for how long a pump runtime?

You need to run the cell at that rate for close to 24 hours to make enough chlorine daily. That is running the cell at max rate. With a 2X cell you don't need to run the SWG at such a high % and for so long.

 

[Ti3155]

Wow I wish I knew that, so that's where the problem is ?
Pentair must change the specifications on it because I choose the 20 because it says it'll be enough for pools under 20k , now I'm kinda stuck lol .
Thanks for the information

 

[Ti3155]

So should I go with ic 40 or ic60 now ?

 

[ajw22]

What is your pump runtime?

 

[setsailsoon]

Ti,

Your pool service is not doing you any favors. The pool store tests are unreliable other than the metals tests. If they are correct you probably already have algae chewing up the FC you are adding which makes the undersized swg problem even worse. Also, you are likely to have stains develop from the metals. I strongly recommend you read carefully the articles that Allen gave you links to, especially ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. While you are doing that get your test kit ordered. Once you have a test kit you can perform simple pool maintenance methods yourself that work just like hundreds of thousands of us on this site do. But you can't do it without the kit. We don't sell anything on this site so our advice is never conflicted like the pool store can be.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[JJ_Tex]

So should I go with ic 40 or ic60 now ?

If that is an option to upgrade from the IC20, then absolutely. If not, then you can get by with the IC20 by setting it to 100% and running the pump all day, supplementing with liquid chlorine when needed. Then when the cell goes out, bump up to the 40 or 60.

 

[Newdude]

I added pucks every time when I see the chlorine level was under 1ppm

Hey Ti !!! This was addressed above but got kinda overshadowed by all the other great advice up there.

You never EVER want to be at or below minimum based upon the FC/CYA Levels. The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm daily and right now, in SC, during the peak season you could be a little higher, or at the high side of that. If you are dropping down to 1ppm you could be at 0 in an hour on some days. Once you start an algae bloom, no SWG out there will keep up.

Both the SWG and pucks are slow to release/produce. If you ever see the FC even approaching minimum, dose with liquid chlorine to spike it right away. Then you’ll have plenty of leeway to figure out the whys.

 

[Ti3155]

What is your pump runtime?

So im paying more attention now .
It was 12 hours per day , at 2200rpm , sometimes i change it to 2650 2750 .
But it was 12 hours per day , after I see there's a drop on chlorine I start run it for 24 hours per day at 2200 , 2350 , then I noticed the FC level was higher , I think this answare the question, the SWG does not produce enough chlorine within the 12 hours , I clean the SWG as well and I think I see some improvement because every time I test the water I see the chloring level is ok , maybe nor as high but it's between 2 and 3ppm .

So as my understanding it's normal process to "help" the SWG by adding a puck in the skimmer for few hours then remove it when the pump is off , this will help the water to get more FC then after removing it the SWG keep adding more chlorine

I will stop using the pucks in the skimmer after the pump turned off and I will remove them from the skimmer basket, do I get this right ?

I dont think I will need to use it on a daily basis because I see better FC level at this point. All I have to do is "help" the SWG a little so it. Can maintain the chlorine level .
By the way, no alge , I don't have s cloudy water
Thanks

 

[Ti3155]

Thank you so much for your comments I will get liquid chlorine right away thanks

 

[setsailsoon]

Ti,

Most important thing you can do right now is to get a recommended test kit.Test Kits Compared . We recommend these because they work and are relatively easy. You can buy from multiple places. If you try to use TFP methods with "free" pool store tests you are likely to fail. This is because they often do not maintain their equipment properly and/or lack training of employees. Our methods depend on reliable test results.

If you are consuming excess FC you may have algae even if your pool water looks clear. I would recommend you perform an OCLT test to be certain. But you need a test kit to do this. If you fail you should perform a SLAM but this requires a recommended test kit. Then to maintain your pool, you need to run FAS-DPD FC, CC tests plus the PH test. These are included in the recommended test kits. See what I mean? This is very easy for you or any pool owner to do. Takes 10 minutes or less several times per week. Once you get to know your pool you can do it even less... but you need that kit! Every pool's a little different so you test more often at first. If your pool is like mine was you'll find you can get your settings right and only test for the basics a couple times per week to just watch the FC go up and down within a range for your CYA level. Only thing you'll do is add a little acid now and then. CYA level will be adjusted about monthly or every 6 weeks. Get a pool robot and maintenance gets even easier since you won't have to even clean it hardly ever... it all starts with a test kit Buddy!

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[Bperry]

So im paying more attention now .
It was 12 hours per day , at 2200rpm , sometimes i change it to 2650 2750 .
But it was 12 hours per day , after I see there's a drop on chlorine I start run it for 24 hours per day at 2200 , 2350 , then I noticed the FC level was higher , I think this answare the question, the SWG does not produce enough chlorine within the 12 hours , I clean the SWG as well and I think I see some improvement because every time I test the water I see the chloring level is ok , maybe nor as high but it's between 2 and 3ppm .

So as my understanding it's normal process to "help" the SWG by adding a puck in the skimmer for few hours then remove it when the pump is off , this will help the water to get more FC then after removing it the SWG keep adding more chlorine

I will stop using the pucks in the skimmer after the pump turned off and I will remove them from the skimmer basket, do I get this right ?

I dont think I will need to use it on a daily basis because I see better FC level at this point. All I have to do is "help" the SWG a little so it. Can maintain the chlorine level .
By the way, no alge , I don't have s cloudy water
Thanks

Dont use a puck in the skimmer at all. If you need to use them to add CYA, put them in a floater. Just don’t use too many of them.

 

[Newdude]

By the way, no alge , I don't have s cloudy water
Thanks

Algae grows exponentially. The last few multiples are the difference between clear water and pea soup. Regular testing gives you TONS of warning that it is brewing and you need to use that heads up to keep the upper hand in the fight. If you listen to your testing, which we all do.

We will happily teach you how and guide you until you are your own pro. For free. With dirt cheap generic chems like $4 a gallon bleach and $7 for 13 lbs baking soda.