nit: How to read Taylor salt test that's on the cusp

[generessler]

Hi. Just a silly detail question. Usually the Taylor salt test is unambiguous: from yellow to obviously orange in one drop.

This time was a bit different. The 16th drop caused a just barely noticeable orangish tinge. Then the 17th was all in: dark and obvious.

The Taylor instructions are a bit weird. They say "first change from yellow to milky salmon (brick red)." In my experience "brick red" is a dark red-brown and salmon is pinkish orange. So which do they mean?

More to the point, is the salt at 3200 or 3400 or maybe call it 3300? I know the difference is pretty meaningless. Just curious about the chemistry...

 

[wireform]

They mean the drop count that you had that caused the orange color.

 

[generessler]

They mean the drop count that you had that caused the orange color.

Got that. But it never turned a "salmon" color. At 16 drops is was just a tiny tint of orange. At 17 it was dark orange/red. I'm trying to figure out whether to count 16 or 17 (3200 or 3400 ppm).

 

[Oly]

What salt ppm does your cell display?
With a test resolution of 200ppm you are just howling at the moon.

 

[wireform]

Up or down by 200 is fine. Call it 3200 or 3400 is the same as far as ballparking the salinity.

 

[Dirk]

Dark and obvious, not a "barely noticeable orangish tinge." So:
Brick red. 17. 3400ppm.

Like most Taylor tests, there's a 10% margin of error anyway.
And any SWG's reading is at least that bad or worse.
Trust the test over the SWG.

 

[Dirk]

It's unfortunate that Taylor uses the word "salmon." That can mean just about anything. They mean the darker color, not the color of your pink shirt you try to convince everyone is "salmon!"

 

[Dirk]

"Brick red" isn't all that helpful, either...

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

The exact color is just not important as you are looking for the moment of change not a specific color.

When you get close to the actual salt level, as you add drops you will see a flash change from milky to solid (call it any color you want) then it will instantly change back to milky.. The first time it changes and stays a solid color, is your end point.

In my mind the salt test is the easiest test there is, as there is only one point where it instantly changes and stays that way.

I use a speed-stir for this test..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[woodyp]

That speed stir makes quite a difference...to me at least. Just when yiu think you need one more drop...POOF!

 

[wireform]

I drop the magnetic pill into the cya mixing bottle and then sit it on the the stirr

 

[Newdude]

+1 Jim and Woody above. I don't get hung up on the exact shade. Its always a hardcore difference between yellow-y milk with a hint of pink and BOOM red/salmon/puke color.

 

[generessler]

Thanks all.

Yeah I know not to trust the sensor, but I must be lucky because mine always tracks Taylor within 0 to -300 (i.e. it tends to read a little low). Often it agrees exactly.

 

[IceShadow]

"Brick red" isn't all that helpful, either...

As someone who has to color match such walls for raceways on illuminated letter signage: no, no it is not.