New white grout turning YELLOW! Help!

Update: well we bought a good test kit and some ascorbic acid. The chlorine is almost at zero, which I read it's supposed to be before we use the ascorbic acid). The Ph (which had been really high) is now about 7.2.

We haven't actually done anything with the ascorbic acid yet. The staining has gotten a bit lighter on it's own (how? I have no idea. Maybe because we had added some muriatic acid last week? Would that do it? Not sure). Anyway hopefully we can do the ascorbic acid thing this weekend and be done with it.

We talked to the pool guy about what kind of testing he does. He has a good test kit (looks just like the one we just bought) and seems to know what he's talking about.

I still don't know where we would have gotten copper in our water. The pool was filled with city tap water (no clue where it comes from) but our tap water tests negative for copper (we had the pool store test it and also used our own test strips). I also verified with the pool store that the algaecide we used does not contain copper (and I googled the active ingredient myself because I do not really trust the pool store...it's not copper).
 
Update:

Well we just did the ascorbic acid treatment. Here's an "after" pic with the "before" superimposed (yes, the lighting is a bit different but trust me, the grout really WAS that yellow, and the Tahoe Blue Quartzscapes greenish in many areas):

2jb88bn.png


WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

Anyway we put a "CuLator" packet in the skimmer and added sequestering agent. We are still not sure why we would have copper. My husband thinks it could be iron, from the rocks around the pool. I pointed out that our pool never had yellowish staining like that before, but then again our finish before was so damaged, with so many different colors in different areas (black, gray, kinda beige-ish) that maybe we just never noticed. Before the re-plaster:

wrjdxy.jpg


It would have been hard to notice stains on that finish.
 
That is quite a difference! Looks good! It could be iron, ascorbic acid works the same for iron and copper. Usually, iron is eliminated if the water isn't from a well. But, there are some municipalities that get their water from a well.
 
I am breathing a sigh of relief right now to have my pretty finish back!

The CuLator packet is supposed to turn different colors depending on what type of metal is in the water. I will update when we find out (not sure how long it takes to change color...the packet is supposed to last for a month so maybe it takes awhile).
 
I will definitely update when my CuLator packet changes color (asumming it does end up changing color).

I checked the city water district website, and it says "the [city water district] provides water through a series of groundwater wells and a treatment and storage facility." But our tap water tested negative for all metals at Leslie's. Not sure how accurate they were though. We bought copper test strips but the color chart on the canister had little example squares that are literally all the same color except for the highest level! So all that tells me is that if we have copper, it's at less than 3ppm. Kinda useless.
 
Update: well we are slowly bringing our chlorine back up. Yesterday the water was looking kinda cloudy so we added some algaecide (I know extra chlorine will also kill algae, but our instructions following the ascorbic acid treatment were to bring up the chlorine slowly and add algaecide). We also added more chlorine. Right now it's at 1ppm free chlorine, 3ppm total chlorine, and 7.2 Ph. Our CuLator packet has not changed color yet.
 
I would raise FC faster. That 2ppm of CC is an indicator that algae is growing now. Algaecide does not kill algae it prevents it. Poorly named, I know, but most algaecide bottles actually say on the bottle that it does not kill algae. Right?!?

Raise FC 1 ppm per hour until it gets to min for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], and brush. You will probably have to add more than 1 ppm of bleach to get a 1 ppm rise. Keep it at min for a few hours and watch for stains. Then raise it the same way to target.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
So....the yellow appears to be coming back a bit. At first I thought it was my imagination, because it's very, very minor. It just looked a bit...dingy. But to test, we rubbed a vitamin C tablet on the grout in the skimmer (where our staining showed up first, and worst, last time) and it turned back to bright white.

What could cause this? We JUST got our chlorine and Ph back to normal. We used sequestering agent following the ascorbic acid treatment, and put a CuLator packet in the skimmer as well. Are there some metals that sequestering agent doesn't work with? Our packet hasn't changed color yet so I don't even know for sure what kind of staining we are getting. I'd post a pic but it's so minor right now you'd never see it.
 
Did you use the polyquat 60 algaecide? Other algaecides have copper.

Sequestering agents don't get rid of metals, they just suspend the metals in the water. The sequestering agents break down over time and you have to keep adding the sequestering agent to keep the metals suspended in the water.
 
Our algaecide did not have copper. I googled the active ingredient...it wasn't copper.

We are using a CuLator packet in the skimmer along with sequesterant. The CuLator packet is turning somewhat yellow which supposedly indicates the presence of iron. However, according to the pool store, our water tests negative for both iron and copper. We also bought test strips which are hard to interpret but seem to confirm the pool store's diagnosis of no metals present.
 
This is not really something for the Deep End. That is for deep questions about how the chemicals work and why.

I say all of the evidence points to iron so treat it as such and see what happens. :( Why, oh why do the test not show it?? WEIRD.

Kim:cat:
 
Well to be fair, the test strips ARE quite hard to read (like the color differences on the chart are practically indistinguishable at all but the highest level). So maybe I am just not reading them right...? Or would the sequestering agent interfere with the strips?

I think I forgot to mention that we read that a calcium hardness test with our Taylor kit should turn purple if there is metal in the water. Ours went from red to purple but eventually came out blue. I am not sure if that test only works with copper though, or if it would work with iron too. Once again, the sequesterant was already in the water so I am not sure if it would have worked anyway.

On a different note...do we need new filter cartridges? Or does the one in the pic still look useable? We have lived here 2 years and never changed them so I don't know how old they are. I am also not sure how long they are supposed to last in the first place.
 
Your cartridges look fine though i can't see the top and bottom. Once you clean them they should be pretty white. And the the top and bottom rubber caps/seals should be in good shape (not cracked) so water entering is forced into the center of the cartridges and doesn't leak out around them. You also don't want any blown out pleats which would allow unfiltered water to come right through. They generally last a while with routine cleanings when pressure rises 25% from a clean filter pressure.
Every so often they should be soaked overnight in a solution of TSP. If you search for TSP on this site the ratio should be pretty easy to find. That helps with cleaning off lotions and oils that accumulate on them and don't come off as well with plain rinsing.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.