New to TFP but not new to pools - numbers are off

[PoolStored]

ok so the only diluted test I will do is CYA.

Good choice. It can be done with pH, but it introduces a wider margin of error. It also tends to not work with higher levels of FC. With your FC of 23, diluting will only bring it down to about 11.5, which is still above pH validity level. Keep is simple (trouble free) and you can't go wrong...

 

[reggiehammond]

My advice: don't waste any more chemicals or time on a pool with CYA over 120+. The only way to fix it is to dump a large portion.
Many, many, many people over the years have tried to fix a high CYA pool, with no real success stories, just a lot of wasted $$.

Confirming if you really do have copper staining may lead to needing a full replacement.

 

[CopperGirl]

Good choice. It can be done with pH, but it introduces a wider margin of error. It also tends to not work with higher levels of FC. With your FC of 23, diluting will only bring it down to about 11.5, which is still above pH validity level. Keep is simple (trouble free) and you can't go wrong...

Should I still continue to check the pH with the normal procedure or wait? Thanks for all of the help.

 

[PoolStored]

Should I still continue to check the pH with the normal procedure or wait? Thanks for all of the help.

Let your FC come down. When it is under 10, then test your pH.

 

[CopperGirl]

My advice: don't waste any more chemicals or time on a pool with CYA over 120+. The only way to fix it is to dump a large portion.
Many, many, many people over the years have tried to fix a high CYA pool, with no real success stories, just a lot of wasted $$.

Confirming if you really do have copper staining may lead to needing a full replacement.

I have had copper staining before...about 3 years ago and was able to get rid of it. Like I said, it may not even be copper. It was a bit overcast this morning so here is a photo of the area where there appears to be something.

 

[CopperGirl]

New numbers for today
FC - 20
CC - .5
CYA - 130
Calc - 250

Used my new Speedstir...love it!

 

[mknauss]

I have had copper staining before...about 3 years ago and was able to get rid of it.

How did you get rid of it? The only way to remove copper from the pool water is to replace the pool water with non copper laden water.

 

[CopperGirl]

How did you get rid of it? The only way to remove copper from the pool water is to replace the pool water with non copper laden water.

I had instructions that I found on the net but for some reason I have misplaced them and cannot find them. I want to say that it had to do with adding muriatic acid though, possibly.

 

[JamesW]

Looks like copper stains to me.

Why did you choose the name coppergirl?

Can you pull the cartridge and show what it looks like before cleaning?

 

[JamesW]

What was the original color of the pool?

Do you have earlier pictures?

 

[mknauss]

I had instructions that I found on the net but for some reason I have misplaced them and cannot find them. I want to say that it had to do with adding muriatic acid though, possibly.

Sulfamic Acid will remove the stains. Then the pool must be drained and refilled to remove the copper. Or the stains will return.

 

[CopperGirl]

Sulfamic Acid will remove the stains. Then the pool must be drained and refilled to remove the copper. Or the stains will return.

As I guess they have...but it took a few years.

 

[mknauss]

A small amount may be removed via the filter or due to overflow from rain.

 

[CopperGirl]

What was the original color of the pool?

Do you have earlier pictures?

original color is as you see it just without the stains...there are no stains in the shallow end...yet. The mottling you see is a reflection from the trees.

 

[JamesW]

I don't see copper in the cartridge.

Copper almost always stains a cartridge a turquoise color.

Has the cartridge ever turned blue/green or turquoise?

The original color of the plaster is close to copper stains, which makes diagnosing copper extra difficult.

I would probably try some sulfamic acid on a spot and then do a full treatment if it works.

You would then have to dilute to remove the copper and sulfamic acid.

Don't drain unless you are sure that the pool will not float.

 

[CopperGirl]

I don't see copper in the cartridge.

Copper almost always stains a cartridge a turquoise color.

Has the cartridge ever turned blue/green or turquoise?

The original color of the plaster is close to copper stains, which makes diagnosing copper extra difficult.

I would probably try some sulfamic acid on a spot and then do a full treatment if it works.

You would then have to dilute to remove the copper and sulfamic acid.

Don't drain unless you are sure that the pool will not float.

Yes, I know it should leave a green/blue stain on the cartridge. I tried a chelator last week which did not leave any green/blue on the filter as has happened before. I wish I could find those relatively simple instructions that I had found before about testing for and treating copper...cause it worked. I believe the test involved pouring muriatic acid on the stain to test (previous stains were on the steps and more in the shallow end).
I'd venture to say that the pH has been too low over time as a couple of years ago I replaced the trim around the pool light (because the metal had eroded to a brown color) and I notice that it is that way again. I suppose in a well-balanced pool, the trim should stay nice and shiny stainless for years?

 

[CopperGirl]

I'm also inquiring about someone to come and place filters from our well pump to the pool to refill the pool quicker if we end up draining half of it versus having a water company come out and dump water in to alleviate the CYA problem.

 

[Hal3]

I am not an expert.

I was going to say that, depending on the quality of your well water, RO is probably much more rigorous treatment than necessary for a pool fill. A particle filter or no filter may be just fine. Your pool has it's own particle filter anyway.

Remember, I am just making this up!

 

[CopperGirl]

I am not an expert.

I was going to say that, depending on the quality of your well water, RO is probably much more rigorous treatment than necessary for a pool fill. A particle filter or no filter may be just fine. Your pool has it's own particle filter anyway.

Remember, I am just making this up!

We have A LOT of iron in our well water so not sure I would want to introduce that to the pool (unfiltered) in such a big quantity. I would definitely filter it if I go this route.

 

[CopperGirl]

Let your FC come down. When it is under 10, then test your pH.

So, we are at FC 14 now so probablty just a few more days til we hit that 10 mark. At that point, should I ONLY be testing the pH or should I re-test EVERYTHING at that point to see where we're at with all chems?