New to TFP but not new to pools - numbers are off

What makes you think it is Copper? Can you take a few pictures and post them here?
Shadows are too harsh (way too sunny) to take a photo but once we have an overcast day, I will take one. I think you'll be able to see what I'm talking about better. At this point, if it IS copper, I think you would agree that it's the least of my worries. Thanks again for the help...it seems like I have a long way to go before my pool is in shape. I'm going to get some distilled water tomorrow and do the pH test and will report back. I will also re-do the CYA test and FC.
 
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Any other solution?
Search for water delivery services. Someone like this:

Filled my 30k pool for about 1500. Ask them where they get their water.
 
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Search for water delivery services. Someone like this:

Filled my 30k pool for about 1500. Ask them where they get their water.
Thanks...prefer not to go that route unless ABSOLUTELY necessary.

OK redid testing except Calcium and results are as follows:
FC 23
CC - .5
pH - lighter than any color on the shaker so lower than 6.8 (using the distilled water method)
CYA - 130 (using pool water/tap water/shake/pour out half then add reagent method)
TA - 99

Pool still looks good.
 
To get the CYA down into the 60-70 ppm range, you will need to replace 50% of the water.
Since you are in Florida, probably best to do the no drain exchange.

With FC above 10, the pH will usually read falsely high - so your pH is probably in the low to mid 6's instead of 6.8. But your TA measurement seems a bit high for that pH - so check your TA and pH testing methods.

Also - test your fill water for pH, TA and CH. Don't bother with the others for the fill water test.
 
Check your TA test protocol. Cannot have a low pH with that TA.
Redid test using instruction from this website instead of the directions that come with the TF-100 (multiply by 10 instead of 11 and color instructions are slightly different). Color turned from green to pale pink then to a deeper pink, then remained deep pink with next drop so subtracted one drop so a total of 9 drops = TA of 90.
 
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Your pH cannot stay low with a TA of 90. So you need to wait until the FC is below 10 ppm. Do not adjust the pH chemically.
 
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To get the CYA down into the 60-70 ppm range, you will need to replace 50% of the water.
Since you are in Florida, probably best to do the no drain exchange.

With FC above 10, the pH will usually read falsely high - so your pH is probably in the low to mid 6's instead of 6.8. But your TA measurement seems a bit high for that pH - so check your TA and pH testing methods.

Also - test your fill water for pH, TA and CH. Don't bother with the others for the fill water test.
pH testing method is for FC >9 (up to 20 - mine is at 23) used distilled water/pool water method mentioned above. Maybe distilled water should have been added at less than 1:1 ratio since I am above FC 20??
 
Your pH cannot stay low with a TA of 90. So you need to wait until the FC is below 10 ppm. Do not adjust the pH chemically.
pH test was done with 1:1 distilled water before dumping out half and adding reagent as per instructions from Poolstored.
 

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Anyone heard of a product called Bio-Active Cyanuric Acid Reducer? Thinking of trying it...I know it has to be followed PRECISELY. Guess I have to let my chlorine level drop a whole lot though before I can try it.
Your pH cannot stay low with a TA of 90. So you need to wait until the FC is below 10 ppm. Do not adjust the pH chemically.
Ok will not touch it. How long do you think it will take for the FC to drop below 10ppm?
 
Can I remove about 4 inches of water a day from the pool and add back 4 over two days, continuing until there is a decrease in CYA? Or does the drainage all have to be done in one shot? Just as a reminder we have a whole house RO system so we do not have an unlimited supply of fresh water that can be put into the pool at one time...our whole house tank only holds about 500 gallons and cannot use it up as we won't have any house water for cooking, cleaning, wash, etc. Do not want to hire a water company to come fill pool.
 
The CYA reducer does not work.

The FC should drop relatively quickly in your climate. Check the FC every few days. Be sure you are not adding any chlorine.
No, we have not added any chlorine (we normally do liquid chlorine) in over 10 days.
 
No, we have not added any chlorine (we normally do liquid chlorine) in over 10 days.
Is the pool covered?

Can I remove about 4 inches of water a day from the pool and add back 4 over two days, continuing until there is a decrease in CYA?
It will take many times more water than the 50% you need to exchange. If water is free, sure.
 
The kit ta instructions have an example where the end result is 11 drops which you then multiply by 10 = 110. The instructions aren’t wrong, you always multiply the number of drops to reach no further change by 10.

Doing small replacements will just use more water overall since it gets mixed between each time. It will take alot of those to exchange 50% of your water.
You have a conundrum,
with your current level of cya the bare minimum fc should go to prevent nasties is 9.75ppm
.... "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
.... "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
.... "Shock FC" is 40% of the CYA level
As you can see, this makes maintaining ph kind of tough. Exchanging water sooner rather than later to reduce cya is the quickest path out of this conundrum.
FC/CYA Levels
 
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She’s referring to post 13 where I referenced this 👇
so she could get a better idea of ph
The margin of error increases when doing any diluted testing. The only one where it will give a reasonable result is the CYA test.
 

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