New to Pools. Very High CYA

[Padle]

High, I bought a house with a pool, and as probably most people, I was led to TFP by Google searches.

So I have noticed one of the cornerstones of TFP is CYA. So full disclosure I have not yet got my own tests (aside from water guru - yes I read the threads on that) the results above are based on two different pool stores. They had a marginal differences, so I pretty much assume my CYA is very high.

That being said, considering everything I read here, that should be the first thing I take care of.

What would be the best way, without breaking the bank.

Thanks!

 

[Jimrahbe]

P,

The only solution to high CYA is to drain and refill the pool.

And, you are correct, doing anything else first is just a waste of time and money.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

Assuming that CYA level is correct, which you should confirm when you get your own test kit, you need to drain some 70%-80% of your pool. That can risk it popping out of the ground.

Read about our No Drain Water Exchange process at Draining - Further Reading

And your CYA level may be higher then 180 as pool store tests have limits as to how high they can go and they report the highest number their test goes to.

When you get your own test kit then...

For cold water (<70F), let CYA sample warm up first.

For CYA anticipated <90ppm:

1. Put sample in mixing bottle (up to the mark, ~ halfway).
2. Add an equal amount of R-0013.
3. Shake about 30 sec; let stand 2-3 minutes; briefly shake again.
4. Glance into C.A VIEW TUBE, slowly pour mixture in until the black dot is not seen when you glance in. Do not look for the dot. Natural indirect light gives the best readings.
5. Gradation closest to the fill level is CYA.

After reading, pour mixture back into the mixing bottle and try step 4 again; repeated readings on the same sample will lend confidence in the result.

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark (30 ml line) with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips in how to read the test results.

Test Kits Compared

 

[Padle]

Thanks! I read the draining pool docs, a little confusing, but then again, I'm a beginner...

Anyway, if I can drain directly into a rainwater drain, is there a issue with draining 50 percent of my pool at once?

That should fix the issue right away, cutting they CYA in half (assuming the numbers are correct)

 

[Jimrahbe]

P,

You want your CYA to be 40 or 50. Draining 50% is not going to do it.

The idea that every pool that gets drain will pop out of the ground is Bull Feathers. Does it happen, in a few cases, yes, but in most cases no it does not.

If you know you have a very high water table, then it is something to keep in mind. It is much more possible with a fiberglass pool. It is also more likely if you leave it empty for a month. Just think about it... How is it possible that they can replaster thousands and thousands of gunite pools every year and very, very few of them pop out of the ground.

A good analogy is that you can die from taking an aspirin, but it is not very likely to happen.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

How is it possible that they can replaster thousands and thousands of gunite pools every year and very, very few of them pop out of the ground.

Hydrostatic drains are opened or holes are drilled in the bottom of empty pool shells to equalize outside water pressure of pools that are drained in areas that may have a high water table.

The risk is real and @Padle is in FL where gunite pools have popped out of the ground and made the news.

 

[Padle]

Thanks all for your help so far!

So I emptied and refilled two feet of the pool, and now the levels are down to 77 (according to Leslie). So I assume I did something good. Now I need to get everything else balanced.

I realized my pool pump was pulling from the dedicated vaccum hose, so I just left one attachment on to pump below the skimmer line. I also monitored all day to make sure the pump didn't run dry.

So now my question is, if I would like to upgrade to a SWG, is 77 good enough?

My other question is , I was going to order the tf-100, but I noticed above 100 it's free shipping and the kit is $83. Is there anything else I would need from them that would put me above 100?

Finally, if it will be raining here for a few days, do I need to wait for the rain to stop before adding chemicals?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[ajw22]

If you are getting the a SWG you want the TF-100 Salt kit. That puts you over the free shipping..

TF-100 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net

See what your CYA is after you get your TF-100.

You can add chemicals while it is raining.

 

[Mdragger88]

There’s no way replacing 2 ft of water reduced your cya by that much - I suspect one or all of those tests are off.
Until your kit comes & you can get good results be sure to keep your fc above 7.5% of your suspected cya level - preferably higher to shore your bets & prevent algae & other nasties from taking hold.

 

[Jimrahbe]

P,

Kit wise, I would go with the TF-Pro Salt.

It comes in a really nice carrying case, it has the test you need for a saltwater pool, and it comes with the speed-stir device that makes testing more fun than work.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Padle]

Thanks! I'm all for spending more money, if it saves significant time.

Aside from the fun, how much time does speedstir save?

 

[Newdude]

Aside from the fun, how much time does speedstir save?

Not so much the time, but the effort. With the cool little machine doing all the work, all you have to do is count drops.

Once you have it and have used it, you'll understand. It's weird like that and so many folks chalk it up to a luxury item that they don't need. When they finally get one they kick themselves for not doing it on day 1. And hard too.

 

[Jimrahbe]

P,

I can't do two things at once. Swirling the test tube and counting drops at the same time.. When I start to think about swirling, I lose count..

If you get the kit without the speed stir, you will end up buying one later on. Might as well start off right.

Also, while most tests do not "require" a speed stir, it helps a lot. But, in my opinion, the salt test almost requires a speed stir to get consistent results. At least in my case.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[PoolStored]

Aside from the fun, how much time does speedstir save?

For me it is not the time, it is the accuracy and consistency. My brother, who had a pool for 30 years, came over. We did side by side tests (me speed stir, him swirl). Speed Stir showed 1ppm high FC because of the action. Brother was stunned. And he was swirling to beat the band.

It is also faster as Jim alluded to...I can do a drop a second with Speed Stir. Without, you have do drop, set bottle down, swirl, pickup bottle, repeat. I don't have the ambidextrous capabilities to hold the bottle vertical in one hand, be accurate with the drop and swirl with the other. Speed Stir in on my list of "take it away from me, and I fill in the pool" tools.

 

[Padle]

I don't understand why it's telling.mw the calcium is low if it's within range?

As far as PH, I lower that, and that will help with the TA?

And what does aerate in this context mean?

 

[Padle]

Just got my TF-100 PRO (the speedstir came broken, unless it mixes without me seeing it)

Good news, the Leslie test results seem to be spot on as far as CYA levels.

The waterguru FC levels are spot on, the PH was a little off.

Now that I have a test kit, I'll see how accurate it is.

 

[PoolStored]

Just got my TF-100 PRO (the speedstir came broken, unless it mixes without me seeing it)

Good news, the Leslie test results seem to be spot on as far as CYA levels.

The waterguru FC levels are spot on, the PH was a little off.

Now that I have a test kit, I'll see how accurate it is.

For the speed stir, you need to put the iron pill into the mixture AFTER your put your sample in. This is the pill, look for it.


You need to follow the CYA test instructions. If you are doing it indoors, you will have false readings.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

Just got my TF-100 PRO (the speedstir came broken, unless it mixes without me seeing it)

You are using the mix bar, correct? Should be in a small package.

 

[mknauss]

And what does aerate in this context mean?

Run the pump with returns pointed up, etc.

Your CH is in range. You can turn off the warnings if you like.

When acid is added to pool water, alkalinity is consumed, thus lowering the TA at that time.

 

[Padle]

For the speed stir, you need to put the iron pill into the mixture AFTER your put your sample in. This is the pill, look for it.
View attachment 465818

You need to follow the CYA test instructions. If you are doing it indoors, you will have false readings.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

You are using the mix bar, correct? Should be in a small package.

Thanks! Silly me! I was looking for a bar as it said in the directions, though it's now a plus sign. I was wondering what that was for