New to me pool - needs work

[hcrossing]

Closing on a house in the Charlotte, NC area on Monday that has a pool. During our last visit, middle of September, we had a pool inspection performed. The kidney shaped pool is approximately 21k gallons gunnite in-ground. The pool has two pumps, a Hayward Super Pump that is 2.5 hp for the main pool and a booster pump, also 2.5 hp with a motor from AO Smith. The filter area looks like the Super Pump. It has an Aquarite Salt System with a T-Cell 15, a Hayward H400 heater, Hayward sand filter and an Aqua Logic Automation system.

Only the main pool pump was working properly. The sand filter was leaking at the valve and backwash hose.

The equipment resides about 60 feet from the far end of the pool where the spa is and the closest part of the pool is within 20 feet of the equipment. Widest point is about 17 feet and the narrowest point is about 10 feet. The length is 33 feet with a 7 foot depth and a 3 foot shallow end with a small area that is barely under water.

Questions I have include the following:
1. Based on the calculations I've seen for HP I think a 1 hp VSP would be sufficient. Does that seem correct?
2. The TCell-15 appears to be for a 40k gallon pool. Is there a reason I should replace this Tcell with the same size or move to the 25k gallon pool size?
3. Since the Hayward Super Pump seems to be working, should I just move that pump to the spa and replace the main pool pump with a VSP?
4. Should I consider getting an entirely new SWG system or try to replace the board and the TCell to start?
5. Should I do anything with the Aqua Logic Automation system? If so, what should I consider doing there?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Closing on a house in the Charlotte, NC area on Monday that has a pool. During our last visit, middle of September, we had a pool inspection performed. The kidney shaped pool is approximately 21k gallons gunnite in-ground. The pool has two pumps, a Hayward Super Pump that is 2.5 hp for the main pool and a booster pump, also 2.5 hp with a motor from AO Smith. The filter area looks like the Super Pump. It has an Aquarite Salt System with a T-Cell 15, a Hayward H400 heater, Hayward sand filter and an Aqua Logic Automation system.

Only the main pool pump was working properly. The sand filter was leaking at the valve and backwash hose.

The equipment resides about 60 feet from the far end of the pool where the spa is and the closest part of the pool is within 20 feet of the equipment. Widest point is about 17 feet and the narrowest point is about 10 feet. The length is 33 feet with a 7 foot depth and a 3 foot shallow end with a small area that is barely under water.

Questions I have include the following:
1. Based on the calculations I've seen for HP I think a 1 hp VSP would be sufficient. Does that seem correct?

A VS pump is a variable HP pump. A 3 HP VS pump running at low speed giving you 1 HP will be more efficient then a 1 HP pump. Get a 2.5 - 3 HP VS pump. Probably a Hayward Tristar Vs pump.

2. The TCell-15 appears to be for a 40k gallon pool. Is there a reason I should replace this Tcell with the same size or move to the 25k gallon pool size?

A SWG cell should have at least 2X the capcity of your pool volume. A 40K cell is what you need. That let's you run the cell at less then 100% and have excess capcity should you need some additioanl chlorine.

3. Since the Hayward Super Pump seems to be working, should I just move that pump to the spa and replace the main pool pump with a VSP?

You can do that. If you have some pics of your equipment pad then post them so we can see your setup.

4. Should I consider getting an entirely new SWG system or try to replace the board and the TCell to start?
5. Should I do anything with the Aqua Logic Automation system? If so, what should I consider doing there?

The AquaLogic and T-15 is a fine SWG system. It is maintainable and parts will fix it. Wait until you get into the house and then give us diagnostic information from it and let's see what your situation is.

Some helpful reading...

Hayward TriStar VS Pumps - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Hayward Aqualogic - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[hcrossing]

Thanks for the information. I will have the Aqua Logic system diagnosed after I close. I should add the the SWG was giving a "high temp reading" and tripping the breaker during the inspection. It was not diagnosed further at the time.

 

[ajw22]

High temp reading could simply be a bad temperature sensor - air or water.

Tripping the breaker can be any number of things. What devices are on the breaker? Id it a GFCI breaker? It is unusual for the Aqualogic system to draw enough amps to trip a breaker.

 

[hcrossing]

Hello again. In most installation instructions for wiring the pump i see black and red wires going to L1 and L2. In my wiring setup they have black and blue. Is there a difference to where these wires should go, specifically?

 

[wgipe]

Hello again. In most installation instructions for wiring the pump i see black and red wires going to L1 and L2. In my wiring setup they have black and blue. Is there a difference to where these wires should go, specifically?

Technically speaking, L1 is black, L2 is red, but it really makes no functional difference as they are both hot. I would be really careful about assuming anything, though, as I have seen white (and even green) used as a hot, etc. It’s always best to assume that everything is hot until you do enough testing with your multimeter to verify that everything is connected as it should be. Note that sometimes, a different color wire is used - but there should always be the proper color electrical tape (black for L1, red for L2, white for neutral, etc) wrapped near the end of the wire to signify this is the case. If any of this makes you uncomfortable, call a friend who knows this stuff - no sense in having to call in dead for work tomorrow.

 

[ajw22]

Hello again. In most installation instructions for wiring the pump i see black and red wires going to L1 and L2. In my wiring setup they have black and blue. Is there a difference to where these wires should go, specifically?

There is no polarity on a 240 circuit. Both wires are hot and can go to either terminal.

Black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground) color coding on wires are fairly standard. For a 240V circuit where another hot wire is needed the electrician will often use what he has be that a red or blue wire. There is no set usage standard for red or blue wires.

If a non-standard wire color is used on a circuit a good electrician wraps the proper color electrical tape around the ends to indicate its usage.

 

[hcrossing]

Thanks for your replies as they are appreciated.