New Pump Won't Power Up

jammingator

New member
Apr 11, 2020
4
Kansas City, MO
Good morning All,

I've used this forum for research over the years but only recently joined and now my first post is with a problem - sorry! Here's what I've got - replacing an old Hayward Super Pump 230V with a new Hayward Super Pump VS 230V # W3SP2603VSP.

Problem is that it won't power up. I wired it as required (1 wire to L1, 1 wire to L2, Green to Ground & Bonded) but the control board is not lighting up.
  1. I have new, old school 20A fuses in the box (tested good for continuity)
  2. There is no timer box to consider
  3. I have 125V at both L1 and L2 when connecting to ground
  4. I do not have 230V with probes on L1 & L2 - ???
  5. Checking the connections on the two control boards, everything looks ok though I did find a broken wire and fixed it.
  6. The default setting for the dip switches was 1&2 on with the rest off, I've tried a few combinations but nothing there either
What am I missing? Thank you in advance for all the help!
 
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You probably have one live wire and one dead wire. Remove the wires from the pump and check each to ground.

When you have the wires connected to the pump, the voltage from the live wire transfers through the motor to the dead wire making it look like it's live.

Once you remove the wires from the pump, you will see the dead wire and you can track it back to where the power dies.
 
You probably have one live wire and one dead wire. Remove the wires from the pump and check each to ground.

When you have the wires connected to the pump, the voltage from the live wire transfers through the motor to the dead wire making it look like it's live.

Once you remove the wires from the pump, you will see the dead wire and you can track it back to where the power dies.

Good insight James, thank you! I did check each side of the disconnect and across and got the same result in the box as at the pump. It may be the left side in the pic above - the wire appears gray as does the block and clip it is connected to. This fuse had some "burn" on the ends. I changed it for a new fuse but maybe it's the wire.
 
If they are both getting 120 but zero between them, they are both probably getting the same phase.

There are two legs that come in from the utility. They are 180 degrees out of phase. Each has 120 volts. Between them, they have 240 volts.

If you are comfortable working in the main panel, check the voltage line to line for the incoming power and at the breaker.

If you have 240 coming in but zero at the breaker, the breaker is bad.

Don't do anything that you're not sure that you can do safely.

Do at your own risk.
 
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