New pool with UV and SWG - consistent high PH level

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Hi Frog,

I am using the Poolmaster 5-way test kit that measure C, FC, pH, acid demand, TA, and bromine (which i dont test). I use the test strips just to compare and affirm the solution test results. Yes, the test strips don't always provide consistent results (used strips on same water and have different reading).
I didnt mentioned the other results (C, FC) other than the pH and TA because they are within the recommended level.
Based on the some of the recommended articles, there seem to be other chemicals i should be concerned with (or should I?). Looks like i will need a different test kit to track the other chemicals.
We have a plaster pool with mini pebbles (not sure if that would change anything).
Right now, i am focussing on getting the TA and pH to acceptable level. Should I be concerned with other chemicals or get these fixed first, then tackle the others?
I noticed some slightly green stuff on a couple of the corner walls today. Looks like an algae brewing although the C and FC is an ideal level, but pH is still quite high making them ineffective. I brushed them and let the MX8 vacuum, but my guess is they will just go to filter and back to the pool.
With regards to the water features, already asked wifee to limit them to day time and only turn them on if she is in the back yard. As for the pool pump, i still scheduled it to run at night since i skeptical with standstill water. Current schedule (7am to 6pm, 8m to 12am, 2am to 6am). Is that too much?
Any further advices or recommendations are greatly appreciated.
 
As to the time of pump runs- you're running it a LOT. Probably more than necessary, but hey..... we all like to see are pools shimmer and move. I get that. But you have to be prepared to pay the electricity bill & the added chemistry bill (time and money) .

Your test kit is inadequate. You don't have a bromine pool so that isn't anything you need to deal with. You DO need to know and deal with-
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

You're going to want to follow closely your calcium along with that pH and TA as you California types do tend to have a problem with building up higher levels.

You also keep mentioning your TA, but I don't recall your saying what it actually is running??

Maddie :flower:
 
darrel.nguyen said:
Hi Frog,
Right now, i am focussing on getting the TA and pH to acceptable level. Should I be concerned with other chemicals or get these fixed first, then tackle the others?
I noticed some slightly green stuff on a couple of the corner walls today. Looks like an algae brewing although the C and FC is an ideal level, but pH is still quite high making them ineffective.
Click to expand...

If you're seeing algae, your FC is clearly inadequate. High pH has nothing to do with algae. If you have algae, you are going to have to follow the SLAM Process.

Right now you should get your test kit on order (see Test Kits Compared - the TF-100 with the XL option is probably your best bet) and till it arrives work on lowering your pH only. What does your 5 way show your FC level at anyway?

Check out ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, and also FC/CYA Levels. The SWG chart is what you'll use for regular non SLAM FC levels.

TA is the last thing you adjust. Chlorine is the most important to worry about right now.

Do you have any idea what your CYA level is? Do you know what level it was set to when your SWG was started?
 
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Thank you everyone for the responses and education with the essential pool chemicals, how they interact, proper maintenance, etc..
My pool guy should be back tomorrow from his vacation and i am pretty confidence he'll make the appropriate adjustments.
He comes every Friday, except the last 2 weeks so i was trying to take matters into my own hands. Apparently, it was much more than i anticipated. Of course, i didnt want to swim in "harmful" water so went on Amazon and bought that Poolmaster 5-ways test kit and some Aquacheck test strips (both have the most and highly rated reviews) and that is how this started.

The test results (confirmed with multiple tests) show extremely high pH level so went and bought some MA, added based on the acid demand test recommendations (2 quarts), retest and showing TA level at 30 so went and bought some TA increaser, got it back up to 90, but pH is above 8.2 again.
Now, that we learned aeration (from all the water features) increases the pH level and high pH level causes FC and other chemical imbalance, we limited their usage.
I honestly don't have a clue as to what the CYA level is, but now understand it could makes FC ineffective doesn't matter how much that SWGS is running.
I just got to make sure the next time my pool guy go on vac, he better send an alternate?
Thanks again everyone.
 
mknauss said:
Good luck on relying on your 'pool guy'.

When you wish to take control of your pool water chemistry and have a troublefree pool, come back. We will be here.
Click to expand...
Thanks MK. He is going to flip when i ask him tomorrow what is my CYA level??
Oh, and show him the chart for the recommended level for a SWG pool and my cheap test kit and test strips. He'll be doing somersaults in my yard?
 
darrel.nguyen said:
Thanks MK. He is going to flip when i ask him tomorrow what is my CYA level??
Oh, and show him the chart for the recommended level for a SWG pool and my cheap test kit and test strips. He'll be doing somersaults in my yard?
Click to expand...

If he flips at giving u a proper level which is highly important in preventing algae growth in your pool due to its relation with chlorine then I would ask him to leave.

You pay him so he is there to service you and your questions.

But regardless I would read up here and decide which way you are going to go. Pool guy and his maintainable or here.

I would be choosing here. Once you understand the relationships you will never have algae or issues again pretty much.

Takes 5 mins each day to maintain my pool. Maybe 15 mins on the weekend.
 

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I suggest you get one of the test kits recommended above and play along doing your own testing as your pool guy does his service. If youw ant to post here your findings and discuss them. You may find it educational. It will also prepare you to take care of your pool should you want to. There is no reason why you can not tinker with your pool and still have your pool guy if you want. Although you will find our methods and your pool guys may differ at times.
 
So I politely asked my pool guy to provide the test results last week and he asked me what exactly do i want to know.
Acting like i know about pool chemistry, i told him...pH, chlorine level, free chlorine, alkalinity, cyanuric acid, etc..
He wrote down these numbers...
PH:7.8
FC: 4-5
CYA: 70
TA: 140
CH: 400
I checked the recommended chart and asked him if PH and TA is a little high, he said they are fine.
I bought the test kit and run a couple of tests earlier today and the results show..
PH: 8.0 or 8.2
FC: 3-4
CYA: 70 or 80 (hard to tell from the little dot)
TA: 160/170 ( 2 tests from different area, deep side of pool).
CH:430
He is coming tomorrow. What should i tell him? He does a great job and the water looks crystal clear so i dont want to give him a hard time?.
Thanks
 
Your tests are not that different from your pool guys, which is good.

Your pH likely climbed from 7.8 to 8+ in a week. That is normal. Just lower the pH to 7.6-7.8 with muriatic acid.

Your TA is high. What is the TA and pH of your fill water? Do you have an autofill on your pool?

You should test for CC after the FC test. Your FC may be 1-2 ppm low and you may want to increase your SWG output a bit.

Overall your water chemistry looks pretty good. Use PoolMath and calculate your CSI.
 
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