New pool in Jersey...they're here!

KaiBee

Silver Supporter
Feb 23, 2019
147
Toms River, NJ
Concrete was slimy after watering it today. Is that normal? How long will it be like that? Pool felt slimy also. Although I'm not sure if some of that was in part because of the sliminess on the bottom of feet due to the deck. I brushed tonight and will vacuum in the morning. What do I need to monitor? Should I do a chlorine loss test tonight?

Below is a screenshot of test results this morning at 9 and then again tonight at 9. My ch is barely turning pink and then when I add drops it turns clear right away.
 

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lazygirl1978

Gold Supporter
Oct 20, 2018
198
Missouri
I didn’t water my concrete — it was stained and stamped though so maybe different? My pool would feel kinda slick when it was dirty. The robot gets up the dirt that was creating a film, but I was worried it was algae. I never let my chlorine get low though so I didn’t know how it was happening. Convinced myself it was construction dirt and I think that’s right. Your FC is so high that if it’s been consistently high like that I sure don’t think it was algae. But I’m still figuring this stuff out! Do you have a robot?

I don’t worry much about CH with my vinyl pool, but it’s always been within range. Hopefully someone else will chime in. How did your TA drop so fast I wonder? Also I think you may have an extra 0 in your salt number?
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
40,733
Tallahassee, FL
I would recheck the CH test. Your new plaster needs ch to help keep it from leaching ch from the plaster. Look in my siggy for the recommended levels and what to use to move each one.
 

KaiBee

Silver Supporter
Feb 23, 2019
147
Toms River, NJ
I would recheck the CH test. Your new plaster needs ch to help keep it from leaching ch from the plaster. Look in my siggy for the recommended levels and what to use to move each one.
Vinyl pool😊, but yes I think I somehow used the wrong water when I tested. My ch is 225 today. But I'm always confused when doing it...am I supposed to mix in between drops of r-0012? I have seen it written both ways but the directions that come with the kit dont say to mix. Also, my cya seems to veer between 70 and 80 (from where I can see the dot). So what number do I go with?
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
40,733
Tallahassee, FL
I don't even bother testing my CH unless I am reminding myself how to do it to help someone else do it LOL

I would go with a CYA of 80 to base your FC needs off of. Better a bit high than a bit low.

Kim:kim:
 

KaiBee

Silver Supporter
Feb 23, 2019
147
Toms River, NJ
Lazygirl, I dont have a robot (yet), and my TA was 100 but for some reason only 10 showed up.

The pool feels less slick today. I brushed 2 times and vacuumed today. I also did a proper backwash/rinse after all of that. The deck only feels a little sticky and in some spots slick when wet. Fine when dry. Guessing this will stop as it cures. I found a couple chips in the concrete today along one of the expansion joints. Also, in some spots it's not flush up to the coping. Kinda mad but I am so ready for this pool to be done.
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
40,733
Tallahassee, FL
For your liner's long life you need to keep an eye on the pH and TA as they are very important for liners like ours. They also play a big part in eye and skin comfort. All of the cannon balls you have been doing could cause the pH to push up. If you had the fill water splashing into the pool that could also push the pH. What is the pH of your fill water?

I would push the pH down to 7.5 and see how long it stays there. If it keeps jumping up we can work on lower the TA to see if your pool likes it lower.

Kim :kim:
 
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KaiBee

Silver Supporter
Feb 23, 2019
147
Toms River, NJ
Ph is 7.6(ish).
Electricians finally came yesterday to install my outlets and my pool lights. Pool lights were hooked up but only the sundeck light was installed. They said they needed longer screws for the other two so left at 430 and said they'd be back today. I called today around 1 to inquire when they were coming and at first she acted like she didnt know what I was talking about and then said we were on today's list and they'd be here before 6. They showed up at 5 and after working for 20 minutes told me they would be back in the morning because they brought the wrong screws! I asked him if we would be the first stop and he said yes so we shall see. The inspector did not show up for the trench inspection today either. I am now thinking I should remind electricians that I have a saltwater pool and need the correct metal screws.
 

KaiBee

Silver Supporter
Feb 23, 2019
147
Toms River, NJ
Question....I understand the logic of leaving the heater on but what happens when there are 2+ days of unswimmable weather? But does it make more sense to turn it off until the night before we want to swim and let it heat up overnight? And since my swcg will stop working below a certain temp should I supplement with liquid chlorine? Thanks in advance!
 

lazygirl1978

Gold Supporter
Oct 20, 2018
198
Missouri
I have a cover so am no help with the heater question, but hopefully someone will have done the math!

As for the temp, the water temp has to be really chilly before SWCG stops working. 50s I think? So you’re probably in good shape through swim season!

I still like to have chlorine on hand. Like for when a kid drops a tuna sandwich in the pool...just felt right to add a gallon of liquid chlorine. :)
 
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kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
40,733
Tallahassee, FL
Like for when a kid drops a tuna sandwich in the pool.
Took me a minute to realize it was a real sandwich. I thought you meant "dropped a load" in the pool :poop:

You should always have easy access to bleach or liquid chlorine at least. Even better if you have a cool darkish place to keep some on hand at the house.

Each SWG seems to have a different temp liking. You will find yours and should make a note of it for when it comes time for the water temp to start going back up. That is the one that catches me some springs. I get lazy adding the chlorine then boom I notice the water is not as sparkly as usually..........know it is time to start raising the FC or risk an algae bloom.

Kim:kim:
 

Newdude

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2019
757
NY
I was told to treat my heater like the A/C for the house. 2 days probably isn’t worth the amount of energy it will take to cool down the house again (or warm up the pool). The full week is, based on your weather or busy school schedule. You’ll have to experiment for a while to know your energy consumption and how long it takes to even out.
 

Catanzaro

Platinum Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 30, 2014
3,327
Monmouth County, New Jersey
Kaibee:

Your SWG will not stop working unless you run it over night and will provide you a warning. This has never happened to me during the day, even towards the end of October. Unfortunately these NJ temperatures have not been cooperating for anyone. It is better to maintain the heat, unless your heater is so fast that you can bring up the temperature 10* in 24 hours.

A solar cover is huge. I have not been home, but have 85% of the pool covered in a blue 12 mil cover and this morning, the internal temperature was still 84*. The heat probably runs 4 hours daily, as the timer is only on for 6 hours. Yesterday was a very humid day as well helping out with the temperatures.

The best thing to do with a solar cover is to cut in half or even 3 parts. Overlap by about 1' for the middle piece on each side. This will help retain heat during times like this. Solar covers work to retain heat, but can be a PIA to take off and put on, but the alternative is to run the heater all the time wasting a lot of gas.
 
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Newdude

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2019
757
NY
+1 to the solar cover for early and late season. Mine when uncovered created so much steam you couldn’t see a foot anywhere on my acre property. Took a month and a half to realize it was all my money going up in smoke.
 
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