New pool build in LV

[cactus_LV]

You don't control it manually from the Intellicenter. You assign it to the internal heater circuit so anytime there is a call for heat, it will activate the valve. No having to remember to actuate it manually at that point.

Are you referring to when it's connected to the mastertemp directly or intellicenter?

Also of mention is the heater bypass for the MasterTemp, which is supposed to be able to allow an Intellivalve actuator to be connected to the heater control board, is currently not functioning correctly. It will rotate to allow full flow through the heater, when the heater is called for, but it will never drop out of the 'cooldown' mode/period and return the valve to it's home position. Pentair is supposedly working on this and word has it that it will require a firmware update to the board, which may require replacing the board. Might be worth a call to Pentair to inquire about this. You can connect the heater bypass valve to the Intellicenter board and control it that way though. That is what I have done.

Just called pentair Mastertemp department they connected me to the automation department which then connected me back to the Mastertemp department and apparently they have never heard of that issue.

 

[cactus_LV]

@Turbo1Ton I like your coping and decking! What did you use for both?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Just called pentair Mastertemp department they connected me to the automation department which then connected me back to the Mastertemp department and apparently they have never heard of that issue.

They should be aware. I can't remember who it is but there is a member here who has an open ticket with them on this. I'll have to search here in a bit.

Are you referring to when it's connected to the mastertemp directly or intellicenter?

Connected to the Intellicenter.

I like your coping and decking! What did you use for both?

Thanks! Nothing special, just concrete for both. The decking is a rock salt finish, and the coping is colored.

--Jeff

 

[cactus_LV]

Plumbing is done.… kind of. How much of a drop in the pressurized pipes is acceptable? 2 of the circuits dropped from 33 psi to 28 psi overnight. The main one dropped from 33 psi to 10 psi obviously something is leaking there.

 

[mas985]

Pressure will vary with temperature so it is best to make a reading at the same air temperatures.

 

[cactus_LV]

Thanks @mas985. Seems like it is holding the pressure now.
Electrical work will start Tuesday and I am wondering if I added enough lights now Based on the threads I read on here about the intellibrites MicroBrites it should be enough but more wouldn't hurt. The green ones below is what I currently have planned and I am debating to add the red ones.
The pool is 13'x35' incl. spa.

 

[ajw22]

I am wondering if I added enough lights now Based on the threads I read on here about the intellibrites it should be enough but more wouldn't hurt. The green ones below is what I currently have planned and I am debating to add the red ones.
The pool is 13'x35' incl. spa.

Pentair guideline is to aim for 4 lumens per square foot of pool surface. For example, if the pool is 500 sq-ft then you need 500x4=2000 lumens. This would be 4 MicroBrites or 2 IntelliBrite rgb.

13x35' = 455 sq ft x 4 = 1820 lumens

That is 2 or 3 IntelliBrite 5G RGB 1000 lumen lights.

Pentair LED Pool Lights - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cactus_LV]

I read that thread the pool incl. spa has 471 sq ft. So theoretically the 4 I got are good enough according to Pentair but given the shape of the pool I am not sure. Oh and I got MicroBrites not IntelliBrites.

 

[ajw22]

I read that thread the pool incl. spa has 471 sq ft. So theoretically the 4 I got are good enough according to Pentair but given the shape of the pool I am not sure. Oh and I got MicroBrites not IntelliBrites.

Water acts as a lense to spread light.

I have 2 incandescent lights in a 20x50ft pool and that is plenty.

Unless you want to be a UFO landing pad all you need is a nice glow from the pool.

Microbrite RGB are 500 lumens so 4 to 5 lights should do it. 6 would be over the top.

 

[cactus_LV]

Ok. Then the only question remaining is should I add one on the wet deck in the corner not sure if that may be a darker spot otherwise.

 

[ajw22]

What color plaster are you going with?

If something light colored then you will be fine as light will reflect off the surfaces and walls and illuminate corners.

If you have a very dark finish then you will need more light.

 

[cactus_LV]

Most likely the color will be something along the lines of the below.


I would like to control the spa light separate from the pool lights. Polytec told me that one transformer would be sufficient for that, my electrician said that the lights need to be on 2 different transformers to control them separately. Not a big deal I will just buy two.
Am I able to control all MicroBrights individually in terms of color through the intellicenter? (Based on what I read my understanding is I can't)

 

[mknauss]

All lights tied to one transformer use one relay and will all be the same. So to have the spa light separate, you need a transformer just for it and a relay for that transformer.

 

[ajw22]

.
Am I able to control all MicroBrights individually in terms of color through the intellicenter? (Based on what I read my understanding is I can't)

Every light or light group you want to control individually needs to be on a separate relay and transformer.

 

[cactus_LV]

For the last 2 weeks plumbing has been trying to find the leak in the main circuit it loses about 10-15 psi within 12h. Is there any recommended way to look for leaks?
Are valves supposed to be 100% sealed meaning if for example the valve is set to skimmer vs main drain and it's still losing pressure it doesn't mean much I assume.

 

[ajw22]

For the last 2 weeks plumbing has been trying to find the leak in the main circuit

What is the "main circuit"?

it looses about 10-15 psi within 12h.

Loses 10-15 PSI on what gauge? The filter?

And what happens after 12H?

Is there any recommended way to look for leaks?

Low filter PSI does not indicate a leak.

Check your impeller for clogs.

Are valves supposed to be 100% sealed meaning if for example the valve is set to skimmer vs main drain and it's still loosing pressure it doesn't mean much I assume.

You do not lose pressure with a leak.

A leak on the suction side draws in air and creates bubbles.

A leak on the pressure side leaks water.

 

[mas985]

I am assuming this is a pressure test before equipment install?

The mention of valves is worrisome because normally pressure testing is done before any pad equipment is installed including the plumbing. Pressure testing should only be testing that plumbing which remains inaccessible after fill in.

Can you post some pictures of how the test is being performed and/or a better description.

 

[cactus_LV]

I will take some pictures in a little bit but essentially they finished plumbing connected all equipment and then pressurized each circuit (water feature pump, main pump, spa pump). Everything should stay pressurized until the build is done is my understanding and also makes sense to me (which doesn’t mean much since I am no pool build expert at all). To measure the pressure within each circuit (water feature, main and spa) either the filter pressure gauge is used or for the spa one which doesn’t have a filter they screwed a pressure gauge into the pump. The water feature circuit and spa one both stayed at 30psi +- 1psi since they finished plumbing 3 weeks ago. The main one keeps loosing about 10-15 psi roughly every 12h until it lost all pressure.
All pipes have been capped off. Sorry I forgot to mention that we are still in the build phase (luckily I guess) the next step will be Shotcrete.
To pass the pre-gunite inspection all systems have to be pressurized and hold 20-30psi of pressure.

 

[mas985]

As I said before, normally pressure testing is done without the pad equipment and plumbing. Mainly to avoid the exact problems you are experiencing. It is a shortcut that often fails.

Now you will need to find those leaks and you don't know if they are in pad equipment which is likely or the other plumbing. I don't envy your task ahead but I would look at the pump lid gasket, drain plug gaskets and even the filter gaskets all possible leak locations.

Also, are they using water or air for pressurization? If air, that is another problem since you can't see it leak. Water is much better so you can see where the leaks are. Plus less likely to leak out.

 

[cactus_LV]

The plumbers dug up all pipes again and check the joints no leaks so it must be the equipment. That is next now. Thanks for the feedback and I didn't know that they are taking shortcuts on the pressure testing. So many things to learn

They are using water but some air is still in the system.