New pool Build in Lutz (Tampa), FL

Another oddity popped up. We are doing a pebble sheen interior finish, and the color we selected was Alpine Blue with Abalone shell mixed in...

This is why not to add abalone to your plaster...

 
This is why not to add abalone to your plaster...


Oh good, something new to worry about ? I was concerned that we were getting some off brand pool finish, and not actual pebbletec since I can’t find the alpine blue color in any of their literature.
 
The equipment and pvc plumbing has arrived and the plumber started putting everything together. They originally delivered the wrong filter. It was the pentair FNS 60, and we'd specified the Quad DE 80. They couldn't get a Quad DE 80 in time so they swapped it with a Quad DE 100. :)

Looking at the trench they dug and filled with PVC...it seems very shallow. I laid that piece of broken sprinkler pipe across the grass on each side of the trench to try and show how far below the grass the top of the pipes would be. Is 4" normal for the Tampa Bay area? The trench is about 3.5' wide.
meassured depth.jpg
Trenchbypad.jpg

trench depth by pad.jpgtrench by pool.jpg

poolequipment.jpg

Let me know if anything looks like it should be changed!
 
Does anyone know if there's a code that specifies how deep the pipes should be? I can't find anything specific as it relates to pool plumbing.

I am by no means an expert so someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I don’t think there is any specific code for pool plumbing depth, only the electrical which should be at 18” assuming a non-metal conduit not covered by concrete. The only issues I am aware of for plumbing would be freezing (not an issue in FL) or hitting when digging or aerating the lawn.
 

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But the outlet from the heater is between the check valve and the SWG. There's a Jandy Check valve on the outlet from the heater. Should there be two?

The CV on the output if the heater is part of the heater bypass along with the 3way valve. I don’t know what purpose that clear pipe would have in the heater bypass line.

Ask the builder and share his answer with us.
 
Not sure this is the correct forum for this, but I’ve got new stucco going in some walls and columns. They should finish with the stucco Friday, then on Monday the screen guy will be here to build the screen enclosure. It will attach to the new areas that are being stuccoed Friday. The plan is to finish stucco Friday, and paint the areas Sunday. Is this ok, or is more time needed for the stucco to cure?
 
New stucco has a very high ph level and needs to be hydrated with water for several days so the ph level drops to an acceptable level. Hydrating with water insures the stucco fully cures , and lowers the ph to an acceptable level. If the paint is applied with the ph to high , you will get color burnout , which shows as a dull sheen or mottling , which ends with paint delamination and chipping. Probably more than you wanted to know 😁Forgot to add , a good masonry primer should be used before applying the finish coat.
 
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I’ve got a code question. I put techko S187d alarms in my windows and doors leading to the pool, but I’ve got one window that is very low, there’s no way I can get the bypass button up above 48” (I think it needs to be 54”) because of how low the window is. Does anyone know if I use one of those locks that goes in the track of the window that would prevent the window from opening if that would be acceptable?
 

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