New Pool / Appreciate Guidance

Champ22412

Member
May 2, 2022
9
Westfield, IN 46074
Hey group. New pool owner.

PB finished our new Fiberglass Pool 35x16 and I want to make sure to get the chemistry right. 10,100 gallon pool. Salt Cell Ichlor30. 1.5 variable speed pump. 200 BTU heater.

Ordered by Taylor Test kit and performed my first tests. Readings are as follows.
Salt 4200
FC 11.5
PH 7.6
TA 200
CH 300
CYA 0
CSI .16

Thoughts/Tips on getting it balanced?

Thanks to this great group.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Numbers not bad. TA elevated which is common in your area. That can be worked over time. CYA at zero needs attention though. If no one added any stabilizer/conditioner, you'll want to get that in right away. CYA (stabilizer) protects the free chlorine from the sun and protects skin/materials from the harshness of chlorine. Since you have a salt pool, use our PoolMath APP to increase your CYA to 60 for now. Ideally 70, but we don't want you to over-shoot your target. If you have any questions let us know.


 
After a few adjustments on Monday I re-tested today.
*on well water so that's my guess for increase in TA since I added some water
*water temp set at 75

FC - 6.5
pH - 7.2
TA - 220 (now that pH is in good shape how do I work to lower this?)
CH - 300
CYA - 30 (added more stabilizer after testing to get to 60+) will test again tomorrow
CSI - -.17

Salt - 3600ppm
 
TA - 220 (now that pH is in good shape how do I work to lower this?)
For the most part, you can let TA come down over time. As pH rises naturally, and you add Muriatic to lower it, TA will come down naturally. Having said that, and considering you have high TA fill water, you can accelerate the process if you like.

 
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work in progress but my numbers have been doing fairly well. Working with the Taylor Test kit has been great.

I'm slow on getting the TA lowered but I am improving on how to efficiently run the pump as well as making adjustments to my SWG to get the right chlorine output. Today's test numbers were pretty good minus TA.
*thoughts on DryAcid versus the Muriatic Acid?

FC - 5
pH - 7.6
TA - 190
CH - 400
CYA - 60
CSI - .31
Salt - 4120 (reading from my IChlor30) didn't test with the Taylor Kit

Water Temp - 84

35x16 FiberGlass 10,1400 Gallons - Cover is on at least 18 hours a day or more
 
*thoughts on DryAcid versus the Muriatic Acid?
Dry Acid will destroy the SWCG. Pentair specifically states in SWCG documentation to NOT use dry acid.

Sulfates are added to the water with Dry Acid and they destroy metals.

 
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