New pool 1” away from overflowing

Rr42

0
Jul 1, 2018
11
Millis, MA
Hello,

Our inground pool with vinyl liner was installed in October. This is our first ever pool so we have very very little knowledge about running a pool. Pool builder came and took the cover off two weeks ago bc he wanted to be sure the water level underneath was good since we have ground water issues. Last week we called him to tell him we needed him to turn the pool on since our concrete installer wants to start sooner than expected (PB had said that he wanted the pool running for several days before the concrete is poured in case there are any issues). The next morning, someone from PB company came and started the pump at 100% but didn’t turn on the SWG. With all of the spring rain we have had, the water level on the pool has been slowly rising. Concrete installer stopped by two days ago and said we need at least 6” of water removed from the pool in order to install the concrete cantilever coping. We have left message from PB but haven’t gotten a call back. I’m surprised bc he had been very responsive up until this point.

This morning, the pool is 1” or less away from overflowing. This most concerns us bc we have septic and although the leaching field is 26’ away from the pool, we’re expecting heavy rain today and again in the next few days.

Help!!! We’ve never had a pool before so we have absolutely no idea how we can get the water level lowered aside from renting a sump pump and hose but we’re inclined to think there must be a better way. Also, should the pump be running at 100% 24/7?? We desperately need the “pool school” appointment PB promised us but he isn’t returning our calls.
 

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The best way is to get a sump pump. You can buy them at Harbor Freight or even Home Depot. Or you can rent a more powerful one at Home Depot. You have both of those stores north of you according to Google Maps.

I am surprised your pool does not have an overflow. Discuss this with your pool builder.
 
42,

Some equipment pads have a way to drain the pool water, but not all, so we need a pic of your equipment pad..

The sump pump idea is really the best way to do it..

You can also put a garden hose in and create a siphon like when you used to steal gas from your neighbor's car.. :mrgreen:

You do not want the pool to over flow..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Most builders will put a hose bib on the out flow from the pump just before the filter. If you have one of these you can simply connect a hose to it and open it up while the pump is running. This is a slow process and is only meant to keep the level below the coping but above the skimmer (basically for getting rid of excessive rain water). If you need the level 6" below the coping for concrete that is likely 3" below the skimmer I agree the sump is the best bet for that.
 
42,

This isn't a solution that will solve the emergency but more for the long term. If you don't have a drain tee at the pad as Jim suggests it's easy to add. I have a similar situation here in Florida. For some reason many of us do not have an over flow installed. So I added a fitting just downstream of the pump that has a 3/4" pipe tee and a ball valve in the line that runs to a drain pipe. If this creates a warranty issue with your new build just ask the PB to do it for you. So long as you can wait for him to do it at his convenience it should be a pretty cheap adder. When we get our gully washers I often drain the pool 4" or so twice a week.

I hope this helps!

Chris
 
I would use the garden hose siphon method as Jim and Pool Medic suggest. You could even use two hoses to double the flow. No sense buying a sub pump you may only use once. Have the builder add a spigot to the plumbing for future use. Just my 2 cents.
 
Thanks. Looks like we’re taking a trip over to Home Depot today.

Here’s a photo of the equipment.
42,

When you buy fittings be sure to get sch 40 pressure fittings Not Sch 40 DWV. They look almost identical and are sold on the same aisle in HD. But the latter are not intended for pressure. Will work most of the time but won't meet code and will be failed by most building permit inspectors.

Chris
 

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