New Northeastern Pa Build

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mknauss said:
It is getting late in the year so I would only go to CYA of 60. Your FC usage is going to start dropping pretty quickly.
You can do that now, and adjust your FC accordingly with bleach.

You do add salt. For a Pentair add enough for 2800 ppm. Check your salt level in the pool before you add. Use Pool Math. Then adjust to 3200 ppm unless you know your pool volume very well then just go to 3200 ppm first.

Brush/mix and run the pump to distribute salt.

You should know how much FC you are using each day now. Set the SWCG to create that much each day. Get to your target FC with bleach.
Your IC 40 makes 1.4# of chlorine if run 24 hours @ 100%. So use PoolMath to determine how much chlorine gas you need each day for the FC ppm you use. Then dial in your SWCG to create that much.

Good luck.
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469 lbs assuming 0 salt level to start for 20,000 gallons. i did that right in pool math correct? that's crazy it seems? and that is just to 2800.

also in pool math i changes FC to chlorine gas to mess around. my target is 7 lets say. if i get a reading of 5 when i test i have to add 5.3 oz by weight of gas to get to 7 again. so again that is longer than 24 hrs at 100%. am i missing something?
 
The reason I say 2800 on the salt is you may not know your real pool volume AND your pool already has some salt in it. If you have a K1766 salt test you can check your pool water now so you use that as your start. If you have that, then you could go straight to 3200. If you do not have a means to test your current, go to 2800, and yes, the 469 lbs is correct (get 13 bags).

If you want to add 5.3 oz of chlorine gas a day, use the 1.4 pounds (or 22.4 oz) that your IC40 creates and determine how you want to create it. At 100%, it would take 5 hours and 45 minutes.

Hope that helps -- isn't math fun!!!
 
ph how have things gotten complicated now! lol

i realized last night that it was lbs and not oz that you said. my mistake. ok i think i got my game plan. i'll talk to my builder to see what his plan was and then jedi mind trick on him to do what you have said here. lol

i appreciate all the help so far. i have to wrap my head around all this and i'll write back with my step by step plan so i know i'm on the right track if that is ok.

i appreciate it!

jim


mknauss said:
The reason I say 2800 on the salt is you may not know your real pool volume AND your pool already has some salt in it. If you have a K1766 salt test you can check your pool water now so you use that as your start. If you have that, then you could go straight to 3200. If you do not have a means to test your current, go to 2800, and yes, the 469 lbs is correct (get 13 bags).

If you want to add 5.3 oz of chlorine gas a day, use the 1.4 pounds (or 22.4 oz) that your IC40 creates and determine how you want to create it. At 100%, it would take 5 hours and 45 minutes.

Hope that helps -- isn't math fun!!!
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yardley said:
Had a nice time looking through this whole thread. I'm going to be over in Richboro (Right near Newtown) the place we are buying has an old pool we are going to remodel/reno this thread definitely gave me ideas. :)
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Thanks a lot for stopping by. Glad u got some inspiration! Good luck! Coronado if u are doing a remodel! They did my plaster. Really great company. They do it all for remodels. No sun outs
 
I'm confusing myself. I need some help. Question. Does a higher or lower ta help stabilize and keep ph low? I know as I add acid u lower ph. I. Just wondering how ta plays a roll in keeping the ph stable. Maybe I'm adding so much acid because my ta keeps dropping. I am still adding acid every other day now to keep ph below 7.8. When it goes beyond 7.8 I lower to 7.2 which I know lowers ta also. So I know I also have to now keep my ta higher for salt but if I keep adding acid my ta will always be off. So if I get my ta up will the ph not rise as quick?
 
Do not lower your pH so far when it goes above 7.8. Lower it to 7.5. That will reduce the TA reduction and slow the pH rise.

You do not need TA higher for salt. TA is best when it gets to a point were your pH is more stable.

A higher TA will not normally reduce the pH rise. You do not show what your TA is, but normally anything over 50 is fine.
Take care.
 
mknauss said:
Do not lower your pH so far when it goes above 7.8. Lower it to 7.5. That will reduce the TA reduction and slow the pH rise.

You do not need TA higher for salt. TA is best when it gets to a point were your pH is more stable.

A higher TA will not normally reduce the pH rise. You do not show what your TA is, but normally anything over 50 is fine.
Take care.
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my TA last test 3 days ago was 70. it was 50 so i boosted it up a bit cause I thought I had to be at least 70 for when I add salt soon.

so what will slow the ph rise?

remember my plaster is also only 40-50 days old

jim
 

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With new plaster you will be adding acid on a regular basis for the next year at least. I have never been through that process but it is well documented on the forum. So time will slow your pH rise. Just stay on it. Not sure what you do over the winter, I do not have that issue were I live!!

It is rare to have to boost TA unless your pH becomes unstable. There is no tie between TA and salt. Not sure were that information came from.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info. I guess in the winter I'm going to just let it go. I don't want to take a chance pouring it in and it settling or not mixing in well and then I have an issue with marks in spring.
 
today i did a full bout of chemical checks to see where all is at for the salt generator next weekend.

Temp: 84
CSI: -.19
CYA: 60
CH: 350
TA: 60
PH: 7.6
FC: 7.5

Didn't add anything cause it was in afternoon.

I'm looking good right?

Did salt test. 5 drops! so 1000 and i didn't add any salt? Isn't that high for no salt added yet?

Pics so to know i did test right.

first drop of yellow:
Untitled by Jim, on Flickr

first drop of second chemical that I count:
Untitled by Jim, on Flickr
went milky

after 5 drops:
Untitled by Jim, on Flickr

that's the color i'm going for right?

added 1 more drop. got MAYBE the slightest darker. . .
so i DIDN'T count it. . .

Untitled by Jim, on Flickr
 
ok i read the whole instruction booklet for the cell. i got questions.

1. it says to only install and start cell after salt has been added and a reading of salt level has been made 24 hrs later. am i doing that or can the cell be installed now and just not turned on? also does it take 24 hrs to get accurate reading and i should not turn cell on before that 24 hr period?

2. it says to set cya to 30-50 only? I'm at 60 cause you guys here said that is a better number t ago with and actually i'm bringing it up to 80 right?

3. it says to super chlorninate pool before adding salt? i thought i'm just taking it to desired FC level before adding salt?

4. says set level in beginning to 3200-3400. i'll shoot for 3200. but then in instructions it says to maintain 3600 level? i thought that is too high. you guys recommended lower?

thanks!

jim
 
jimim said:
my TA last test 3 days ago was 70. it was 50 so i boosted it up a bit cause I thought I had to be at least 70 for when I add salt soon.

so what will slow the ph rise?

remember my plaster is also only 40-50 days old

jim
Click to expand...

The lower the TA the slower the pH rise will be. Most people with SWG pools aim for a TA level of 50-60 and as previously mentioned, keeping the pH between 7.6-7.8 will limit the acid consumption, TA drop and need for major adjustments.

You are mixing industry standards and the guidelines on this site. Stick with what is recommended here.

CYA 60-80
Salt - 3-4000

Salt takes a long time to fully mix in. You can put the cell in but wait 24 hours before turning it on.

No need to super chlorinate
 
Thanks Brian. So install cell. Keep it off. Take salt up to 3400. Wait till I get that reading after 24 hrs. Set ph to recommended for my cya and then turn salt generator on and start to play with percent setting and pump run time to maintain the proper fc level. Make changes to generator output and test water after sun is down at night.

Am I missing anything?

Is is it weird my salt level is already 1000?
 
Sounds like a good plan.

Nearly everything you add to the pool also adds salt (chloride)... Sodium chloride, sodium bicarbonate, calcium chloride, etc. Acid is one of the worst offenders because it contains over 300K ppm of chloride and adding one gallon of acid to your pool is the equivalent of adding 5 pounds of salt or 30 ppm of chloride. Your fill water also has some measurable salt as well.
 
Thanks again brian. So in closing. Since I am at 1000 already should I take the salt to 2800 or right to 3200? I think I am within 1000 gallons of my pool water volume. When I add chemicals they r usually right on the mark.

After I hit 3200 just then take it to 3400 or stop?

thanks again!
 

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