New member from Texas

Jun 21, 2022
23
Abilene, Texas
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi folks,
Just making a quick intro before I ask a question. Joined up yesterday after doing a fair bit of reading on this site over the last few weeks.

I'm a new pool owner (Above ground, round, about 20,000 gallons). Just opened it up about a month ago, May 21st, 2022 was the first day it was swimmable, if I recall properly. I bought the Frog Pool Tender system, and while I like the approach of adjusting a dial to adjust chlorine addition rate, I don't like how quickly I go through cartridges, the cost of them, and I'm getting a feeling I got suckered into a gimmicky system. Will stick with it for now, at least until I use up all the cartridges I bought. (I expected them to last 3 weeks or so, and they're closer to 1 week. I'm currently supplementing with 3" tabs so the cartridges last a bit longer.)

I'm in Texas, in a rural area about 20 miles from Abilene, TX.

I've read through a lot of the pool school info, and it's refreshingly simpler than trying to make sense of all the mixed info on the web - still waiting to learn if it actually works! :)

After a round with various test strips, I've ordered (and received) the TFTest Pro kit, which I'm still getting the hang of (having a hard time getting good pH and FC measurements using the dual vial rig. Better with the more in depth version of chlorine testing, wish there was an equivalent for pH).

mmm.. That's it for now, I'll go post my question after updating my signature.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Be careful using the Frog thing, it is adding copper to your water that will stain the pool and turn blonde hair green. Also the Trichlor has CYA Stabilizer in it and that will build fairly quickly. Test the CYA level with your test kit. If you are at 50 ppm, time to stop using the trichlor
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

 
I'm still getting the hang of (having a hard time getting good pH and FC measurements using the dual vial rig. Better with the more in depth version of chlorine testing, wish there was an equivalent for pH).
Same here. I totally gave up on the OTO test - all those yellows look the same to me. But it's only and extra 30 seconds to run the FAS-DPD so no biggie.
 
Thanks for the welcome, folks.

Thanks for the tip on the Frog, Marty - didn't realize it would bump up the CYA. I did put a bit of effort into raising my CYA intentionally, but I'll watch the level and switch to something else (for chlorine) if the CYA creeps up.

I read here that liquid bleach is the recommended approach. I didn't even know that was an option until I started reading here. I thought the tablets were the standard product (and maybe they are more commonly used.).

What say you? Do you actually use liquid, or tablets? If the liquid, do you have to add a bit each day? Do you used something that 'drips' it into the pool/return line? Some kind of auto-dispensor?
 
I used liquid chlorine I got from the ACE store up the road. Some pool stores have it as well. If that is not convenient for you Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot sell it also BUT you have to watch the date code on the jugs as they have old chlorine that, over time, loses it punch.
 
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Thanks for the welcome, folks.

Thanks for the tip on the Frog, Marty - didn't realize it would bump up the CYA. I did put a bit of effort into raising my CYA intentionally, but I'll watch the level and switch to something else (for chlorine) if the CYA creeps up.

I read here that liquid bleach is the recommended approach. I didn't even know that was an option until I started reading here. I thought the tablets were the standard product (and maybe they are more commonly used.).

What say you? Do you actually use liquid, or tablets? If the liquid, do you have to add a bit each day? Do you used something that 'drips' it into the pool/return line? Some kind of auto-dispensor?
You basically have two options that don't add other potentially problematic tag-alongs. Liquid chlorine, or a SWCG (salt water chlorine generator.)

Tabs add CYA, which builds up and makes free chlorine less able to work. Requires frequent water changes.
Cal Hypo adds calcium, which eventually could cause scaling, also resulting in frequent water changes.

Liquid chlorine and SWCG impart nothing other than what's needed, allowing your pool to stay in-control. Thus why TFP methodology is built around those two. Being in a similar climate as you, just east of you, I'd say that the SWCG should be considered standard equipment. It's basically a hassle-free way to keep the pool clean and clear.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Be careful using the Frog thing, it is adding copper to your water that will stain the pool and turn blonde hair green. Also the Trichlor has CYA Stabilizer in it and that will build fairly quickly. Test the CYA level with your test kit. If you are at 50 ppm, time to stop using the trichlor
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
The space left by a pool frog, when it is removed, is perfect for a SWCG (Salt Water Chlorine Generator). Ask me why I know...
 
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The space left by a pool frog, when it is removed, is perfect for a SWCG (Salt Water Chlorine Generator). Ask me why I know...
Ha! Ok, that sounds a lot like the voice of experience :)

I do like tinkering. I'm thinking now about building a liquid chlorine pump that could replace the pool frog in my plumbing. A flaw (in addition to those shared above) that I see in the pool tender is that it's adding chlorine whenever the pump is running. That's fine if you're just leaving it on timer all the time, but sometimes I end up taking manual control for whatever reason (leaving it running so that Wanda the Whale can do her job, aerating to lower TA, etc.)
 
Look at what I found for you:

There are other threads. I just grabbed the first two I saw.
 

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Ha! Ok, that sounds a lot like the voice of experience :)

I do like tinkering. I'm thinking now about building a liquid chlorine pump that could replace the pool frog in my plumbing. A flaw (in addition to those shared above) that I see in the pool tender is that it's adding chlorine whenever the pump is running. That's fine if you're just leaving it on timer all the time, but sometimes I end up taking manual control for whatever reason (leaving it running so that Wanda the Whale can do her job, aerating to lower TA, etc.)
I was considering an injection pump but ended up going Salt Water conversion. Why?
1. You still have to buy chlorine and put it into the tank - I did this in college in the 1980's as a lifeguard
2. You will still be lugging LC around and probably in larger containers.
3. The Liquid Chlorine is still fragile and can age before you put it into the tank
4. You still need to adjust it to your pool
5. While simple, it will still require maintenance and has the potential of having problems

If you do go this route, treat your pool like a saltwater pool as far as the CYA and chlorine levels.
Setup the system so that the chlorine pump only runs when you are running the pool pump
Make the injection point downstream of any equipment like heaters and filters.
Remove your inline tablet dispenser.

I am considering a Stenner pump for Muriatic acid. But I would really prefer a CO2 injection system...I really hated pouring the MA and 12% LC into the tanks when I lifeguarded!
 
Look at what I found for you:

There are other threads. I just grabbed the first two I saw.
That's some cool stuff - thanks for sharing!
 
I was considering an injection pump but ended up going Salt Water conversion. Why?
1. You still have to buy chlorine and put it into the tank - I did this in college in the 1980's as a lifeguard
2. You will still be lugging LC around and probably in larger containers.
3. The Liquid Chlorine is still fragile and can age before you put it into the tank
4. You still need to adjust it to your pool
5. While simple, it will still require maintenance and has the potential of having problems

If you do go this route, treat your pool like a saltwater pool as far as the CYA and chlorine levels.
Setup the system so that the chlorine pump only runs when you are running the pool pump
Make the injection point downstream of any equipment like heaters and filters.
Remove your inline tablet dispenser.

I am considering a Stenner pump for Muriatic acid. But I would really prefer a CO2 injection system...I really hated pouring the MA and 12% LC into the tanks when I lifeguarded!
Ok, that's an interesting perspective too...
I considered SWG when shopping, but decided against it because (based on minimal research) I got the sense that I may have to replace some pricy component periodically. Now, I realize I knew next to nothing on the topic, and what I've learned since is that the expense of the chlorine is NOT trivial over a similar period of time, so maybe it's a wash, financially. Hence I went with the pool tender... Well, barely a month in, and feeling some remorse there.

I never considered Muriatic Injection - assumed it would only be needed from time to time, to adjust TA. I saw in one of the links that kimkats shared that someone mentioned injecting MA. Now, I think I get why CO2 would be preferable, as my understanding suggests that wouldn't mess with your TA, only lower the pH. Is that right?

I can see why people might really geek out on this. Automatic Chlorine injector (feedback loop optional, I guess?), Automatic carbonation (feedback also optional?), automatic waterfall/fountain to raise pH, if needed? All kinds of fun to be had here!