Hey Bert !! When the Ph is out of range, it’s kinda tricky as the test reads the same for all values out of range. What looks like an 8 might actually be a 9 in the instance. When you add from 8 to 7.4, you may have only dropped it to 8.6 in that scenario, which still reads as an 8 like nothing changed. So you verify and add again (maybe even a few more times) from 8 to 7.4 until the value is readable.
Yup. If 5 drops is still clear, move on. The vial goes pink again after 15 seconds or so. Disregard if you notice it.
This is interesting. A 5+ drop per day is unusual this time of year unless your CYA is low. If the CYA is in range then it would likely be the start of an algae bloom, but also show some CCs…. So probably not algae. So I’ll go with low CYA or testing error. Did you use the same sample size and maths for both tests ?
I've tested CYA twice in three days and the test liquid is not cloudy. It's clear. If I understand the test correctly, that would put the CYA at close to zero. I think the measurement only goes to 10 or something (I don't have the test vial in front of me).
If there's no stabilizer (CYA) and your free chlorine is dropping 5ppm per day, you've got one day left before the water runs out of chlorine. Best to turn the SWG back on and get ~30ppm of CYA in there so you're not losing chlorine so fast.
Be careful with the liquid. It tends to settle at the bottom and so if you don't use the whole bottle at once you get unexpected CYA level. But make sure adding a whole bottle doesn't add too much. The powder stuff literally goes in a gym sock. Doesn't need to be anything fancy.
Can you recommend a stabilizer?
The south phoenix Lowes has it in stock. HD s showing possibly in stock if thats closer. Walmart looks to be out. They all have their own brand or Chlorox. Just verify it says 100% on the bag and youre golden. Its in the outdoor/garden section at all 3 stores. (When available)
OK, I added 7lbs of the granules by adding it to the skimmer basket net, letting it soak for a while then squeezing the skimmer net to release the cloudy mixture. Had the pump running while I was doing this. Felt pretty good about it until I looked at my MultiCyclone. Look where basically all of it ended up...
There is no water flowing from the return. I have the pump running (1,500rpm not in cleaning mode) and the valve is split between the skimmer and main drain. Not sure how to get water flowing out of the return. I thought if the pump was running, water would come out of the return. Don't you just love newbies
We do in fact.
Every last one of us was there once and remember being overwhelmed. Don’t get discouraged. Each flub cements what you read into permanent memory and even helps you connect further dots.
So is there a return that’s off ? (You’ll have a valve to adjust/open) or is there no return and only the in floor cleaners ? (Some pools use the IFCS as the return).
With no return, still suspend the sock out into the pool. With enough time to soak it will squish out the same. Being hit by a return jet speeds it along a little but no biggie.
We do in fact.
Like here for example. You are now well learnt to not add acid to the equipment. When the time comes for Muriatic Acid to manage your PH, you’ll instinctively know you want it added to the pool water. (Pencil sized stream, stand upwind, brush real good after as it’s heavier than water and might puddle up on the bottom).
There will be some other bumps and we got you when they happen also. Each time you level up.
Normally somebody does it and doesn’t get the expected results, we assume it’s gummed up in the filter and tell them to wait it out. The only difference is you can see yours. With easy access to it, get it out and into the pool. Or let it ride because it’s no worse than what usually happens.
Post up some pics (pool and equipment). What you think is a return may be a vacuum port. If it’s a return there should be a valve to allow more pressure to the IFCS when in use, then back to the return for better skimming. There is no automation in your signature, but if you have it, it may be controlled by actuators instead of manual valves. Or it’s an abandoned return / something else entirely.
Most of what’s out there unfortunately is sketchy at best. Like the CYA bag saying to dump the full granular into a skimmer. They couldn’t care less about long term equipment damage. Or the ‘industry’ that hasn’t updated its sanitation methods / ideals since literally the 80s. Or the pool stores using the same outdated methods as a cash cow. Keep it all here. You have 290k real world fellow pool enthusiasts to walk you through what works best. With each new member the hive grows stronger.
Hold on for an IFCS person to answer that. I’m pretty sure you want more drain for cleaning and that this is the IFCS conundrum. Main drains barely suck any debris if it isn’t 6 inches away from the grates. Somewhere on the forum is a video with dyed water and it all just sits there with only the closest dye being sucked in.
The air valve could be clogged and only letting a little air out. Or it’s half seized when open. My own lost most it’s performance and I found a few pool brush bristles lodged all up in there. The first time you are doing a deep clean, explore further. Some are removable/ replaceable and some are a permanent part of the tank lid.
Priming usually needs high 2ks.