Sorry, TA is 240 (24 drops x 10).
CYA test resulted in solution that didn't get cloudy so the black dot was never covered in the tube when full.
New house with pool and first test- Free Chlorine is ~16ppm - sheesh!
- Thread starter bertschb
- Start date
CYA test resulted in solution that didn't get cloudy so the black dot was never covered in the tube when full.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK. Pretty typical for a pool company maintenance.
Add acid to lower the the pH from 8 to 7.4. That will lower your TA a bit. When the pH reaches 8 again, repeat. Test the TA each time you need to add acid. You will scale up your SWCG and get water line scale pretty quickly with high pH and high TA.
Get 40 ppm of CYA in the pool. Use the sock method.
Add acid to lower the the pH from 8 to 7.4. That will lower your TA a bit. When the pH reaches 8 again, repeat. Test the TA each time you need to add acid. You will scale up your SWCG and get water line scale pretty quickly with high pH and high TA.
Get 40 ppm of CYA in the pool. Use the sock method.
Thank you so much for help help Marty. It's very much appreciated.
I think my pool is about 12,000 gallons and I have 12.5% (edited - 14.5%) acid. According to Pool Math, I need to add a little over a quart of acid. Does that sound about right?
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
borjis
LifeTime Supporter
You'll get a much more accurate cya test if the sample is brought up to room temp...but it sounds very low to begin with.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
My Poolmath shows you need 103 oz of 14.5% muriatic acid to lower the pH by 0.6.
You can add an entire gallon of the 14.5%. Do it at a return, slowly. pump running. Then brush the area. Test pH about 1 hour after.
You can add an entire gallon of the 14.5%. Do it at a return, slowly. pump running. Then brush the area. Test pH about 1 hour after.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do be ware that a FC of 10ppm or above will effect the pH test by making it read higher than actual. But your high TA will buffer the acid quickly so in your situation, you can add the acid. But I would get the FC down to closer to 10 ppm or below before adding any more acid.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- May 3, 2014
- 59,128
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
As I said, wait until you get your FC down to around 10 ppm or less before adding any more acid.
How many hours is the pump running as it a combination of pump run time and SWCG %.
Also make sure the dropper is completely inverted and not sort of sideways when you do the testing because it can really change your findings.
Also make sure the dropper is completely inverted and not sort of sideways when you do the testing because it can really change your findings.
I am dropping the drops straight down. Read that somewhere else so I'm careful to do that. I also set the SWCG to 0%.
There are three circuits for the one Pentair VS pump:
Pool- 1,500rpm
Solar/Heat- 2,500rpm
Cleaner- 3,000rpm
...and three schedules
Pool 1/1 Schedule 6:00AM-2:00AM Every day
Cleaner 1/2 Schedule 2:00AM - 6:00AM Every day
Cleaner 2/2 Egg Timer 3:00
If I understand this correctly, the Pool circuit runs from 6:00AM-2:00AM at 1,500rpm and then the Cleaner circuit runs from 2:00AM to 6:00AM at 3,000rpm. Not sure what triggers the Egg Timer. Does the Solar/Heat circuit get triggered when the heater is turned on? These questions are probably better asked in the appropriate section rather than here.
I'm thinking of dropping the Cleaner rpm to 2,500 and monitor the pop up heads to make sure they still function properly. I may also reduce the amount of time the pump runs the "Pool" circuit from 20 hours down to 10. 20 hours seems excessive during the winter when the water is so cold.
If you're not using the pool I think you can scale back all of the mentioned schedules.
Brian,
The Egg Timer turns the Cleaner off after 3 hours, if it was started manually.
Not really a factor.. with the Cleaner being on a schedule.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The Egg Timer turns the Cleaner off after 3 hours, if it was started manually.
Not really a factor.. with the Cleaner being on a schedule.
Thanks,
Jim R.
My new pump settings:
There are three circuits for the one Pentair VS pump:
Pool- 1,000rpm (was 1,500rpm)
Solar/Heat- 2,500rpm
Cleaner- 2,600rpm (was 3,000rpm)
...and three schedules
Pool 1/1 Schedule 10:00PM-8:00AM Every day (was 6:00AM - 2:00AM)
Cleaner 1/2 Schedule 8:00AM - 10:00AM Every day (was 2:00AM - 6:00AM)
Cleaner 2/2 Egg Timer 2:00 (was 3:00)
I'm not sure how long it will take for my FC to drop from the current 16ppm to 2ppm. I dropped the POOL circuit speed from the current 1,500 down to 1,000 until I turn the SWCG back on. I think the SWCG needs ~1,500rpm to operate.
There are three circuits for the one Pentair VS pump:
Pool- 1,000rpm (was 1,500rpm)
Solar/Heat- 2,500rpm
Cleaner- 2,600rpm (was 3,000rpm)
...and three schedules
Pool 1/1 Schedule 10:00PM-8:00AM Every day (was 6:00AM - 2:00AM)
Cleaner 1/2 Schedule 8:00AM - 10:00AM Every day (was 2:00AM - 6:00AM)
Cleaner 2/2 Egg Timer 2:00 (was 3:00)
I'm not sure how long it will take for my FC to drop from the current 16ppm to 2ppm. I dropped the POOL circuit speed from the current 1,500 down to 1,000 until I turn the SWCG back on. I think the SWCG needs ~1,500rpm to operate.