New House...First Pool = LOT’S of Questions!

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BuckeyeMac

BuckeyeMac

0
Jun 10, 2018
156
Carroll, OH
Hi!

New to the forum, I joined this past summer prior to buying our house with a pool. By the time we moved in the Fall, they had closed the pool (poorly) early October here in Ohio. I did a bit of research, and drained the filter/pump, removed hoses and components in prep for winter. I do not know what chemicals they added for closing.

1. I attached a picture as far as the current status of the pool. I’m assuming this is considered “Cover fell in”? What can I do to make sure this doesn’t happen next year?

2. What is the best method of removing this cover without getting most of the wind/winter leaves into the pool?

3. When we moved in, I noticed they had the pump/filter running via an heavy duty extension cord plugged into the outlet on our deck. Uh oh. I know this is not safe so I have an electrician coming out Monday to run dedicated electric for just pump/filter on its own breaker. The run will be I’m guessing 15’ of electric. I’m budgeting ~ $1,200 for this job. But my question is, I am wanting a timer so that I can have the pump run without having to go outside and kick it on/off every day. What time do you guys recommend?

4. I’ve attached some pool chemicals the previous owner left behind. What all do I need to add to my list? Looks like I will definitely need a nicer test kit as the one they left is very basic


Looking forward to hanging around here!
Marc
 

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Hi Marc and welcome! :wave: For your questions, I suppose you'll have to simply try to gently sweep/rake any debris off the cover as best as you can before trying to remove it. Inevitably, some junk will fall in, so you can remove it from the pool at that time. As for the pump timer, you can hop on the Intermatic website to see what they offer as many of their timers (i.e T104 series) are very popular. Just make sure you get the proper timer for your application (i..e 110V vs 220, etc). As for those chemicals, the Alk increaser is simply baking soda. The pH down is a powder version of acid to lower pH, but we recommend muriatic acid to lower pH as it's very effective with no residual by-products. Essentially, you might never (or very rarely) step in a pool store for anything. For testing, order yourself either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. I love the TF-100 myself with the speedstir. Please update your signature with all of your pool details when you get a chance, and read/save all the links in my sig as well. Study-up on the SLAM process as you will use that to remove the algae once you get the system running again. Congrats on the new pool! Love that deck.
 
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Being that the pump & filter was run off an extension cord, it may be a good idea to make sure the pool has been bonded. If the previous owners didnt want to spend money on wiring it is possible they skipped this step as well. In my last 4 months in pool research I have learned that is an important one. Nice setup BTW!
 
Thank you both for the quick responses!

I made sure when I called the electrician he will be double checking the bonding of the pool.

And thank you for the kind words. I’ve got a few deck boards I’ll be replacing. And I will be building a gate at the stairs to the deck here soon so I can remove that black fence as it cuts off the deck awkwardly.
 
@BuckeyeMac Your cover hasn't fallen in :) It has collected debris and precipitation :)
  • I would try a hose siphon to drain the top water off
    • note: some pool water will seep through the cover and siphon off too
  • As the water drains, start slowly lifting the cover, so that you are "only" draining the collected water
  • Once it's "mostly" dry, we are able to fold our cover back on itself, and then drain it off the opposite side (this takes at least 2 people, 3 makes it easier by holding the end you are walking towards)

  • You will need:
    • liquid chlorine (does your pool have a salt water chlorine generator?) This can be "plain" cleaning bleach (6%) or Liquid Pool Sanitizer (10 or 12.5%)
    • Chlorine Stabilizer (usually only needed once a season, unless you have a large water displacement)
    • muriatic Acid (found in the hardware section, you're looking for 'pure' 31°)
  • Once you have a test kit, you may or may not have a need for those alk/ph "adjusters" (those are repackaged household chemicals, as you know from being around for awhile) :)
    • Baking Soda ("alkanity increaser")
    • Washing Soda ("ph increaser")
 
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BuckeyeMac said:
Ah thank you! The previous owner did leave a submersible Pump, so I will try to use that first for the water in top of the cover.
I do not have a Salt Water Generator
Click to expand...
The sump pump might pull your cover in, I would recommend just a garden hose siphon (image for illustration, not mine) 1552687834310.png
 
Here is a set of links I put together for new pool owners. I hope you find it helpful. You might have seen some of the links already but don't want to take a chance of you missing one of them.

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Trouble Free Pool

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

You CAN use those chemicals since you already have them. Just know in the future you can/should buy what is in the "recommend chemicals" link above to save you money.

That set up is SWEET!! I can't wait to see it in use!

Kim:kim:
 
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Welcome from one Buckeye to another. I am in NE Ohio. It is still somewhat early to open your pool here and you want to avoid allowing water into your return/suction lines (or removing antifreeze) until you are safe from a hard overnight freeze. This is more important for you with an above ground pool. For now, I would drain your cover using a cover pump (or siphon off as someone suggested) and clean any leaves/debris off of it. Once the temps are warmer you can open it. Remember, the longer you wait the less energy/$$$ you use while not swimming, but you run the risk of algae growth under the cover, especially if no algaecide was used in the closing. For now, I would purchase any chemicals you need for opening. Read up on opening your pool on this site. I also had an improper (non-code) extension cord install too when I move here in 2016. I had to hard wire and properly bond/ground my pump and SWG. Be very critical of your filter to make sure there are no issues with it and do the calculations to ensure you run your pump long enough each day, but not too long wasting energy. Go Bucks!
 
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BuckeyeMac said:
So first quote to run electric & bond the pool came in last night...around $2,500. I about pooped my pants right in front of the guy. I'll be getting some other quotes. The pump is 18' from the main panel in the house. I couldn't believe it.
Click to expand...

OUCH!!! Yeah time to make some more calls! Here is hoping that was a "I really don't want to do the work" bid!
 
OH yeah!! :party: You will be swimming as soon as it warms up!

Okay now Mac lets do some house keeping. Please fill out your signature. What kind of pool, filter, pump, etc. What test kit are you using? If you don't have one look in my siggy below for a link to the one I think it is the best bang for the buck!

Kim:kim:
 
Okay, I added as much info about my setup as I could right now...I covered things with a tarp in the winter (we get a lot of freezing rain/snow here), so I will fill the rest when I uncover it here hopefully in the next few weeks.

I have a few more questions....

1. I will obviously need to add water to my pool after draining the water off the cover and filling the pool to the correct level. I am on well water. How do I go about filling my pool via well? I was thinking of running it for an hour or two each day until it gets filled up. Is that advisable?

2. I do know my filter has no label on top for the settings. How should I go about making sure I know what it is on? I didn't look close enough to find out what brand it is (hopefully its not on that label)...
 
I am on a well and run my water as needed BUT I also know my water source is a deep one and VERY pure so I don't have to worry about running it dry or picking up yucky stuff if I run it for a while. If you are unsure of your well's water source I would only run it like you say. Could you ask your neighbors to see what they have to say about your area?

Filter-hoping there is some kind of label on it BUT if there is not then take pics and share them here. I know someone who can id most things like this and they might be able to find a new label for your system!

What test kit do you have? That is the only missing from your great siggy!! :hug:

Kim:kim:
 
Wow - that was a quick response! I will check with my neighbors about the well and the water in the area. Edit - I just found my well drilling via Ohio DNR...my well pump is at 214 ft down and tested 5GPM for 1 hour when drilled in '93. It says my static water level is 49ft, drawdown 173ft...I don't understand this info, this is my first well property, but that info looks important :laughblue:

Haven't purchased a test kit yet...I'm bouncing back and forth between the TF-100 & the K2006C. I've probably got another 3-4 weeks until the weather is warm enough to open the pool.
 
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Would this be advisable:

With the winter cover still on, fill the pool water up to the correct level? And in 2-3 weeks take cover off and get the equipment running, test water, and add chemicals as needed.

Really the only question is, is it okay to fill the pool up to correct level in advance of taking the winter cover off?
 

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