Wow - that was a quick response! I will check with my neighbors about the well and the water in the area. Edit - I just found my well drilling via Ohio DNR...my well pump is at 214 ft down and tested 5GPM for 1 hour when drilled in '93. It says my static water level is 49ft, drawdown 173ft...I don't understand this info, this is my first well property, but that info looks important
I'm bouncing back and forth between the TF-100 & the K2006C.
Would this be advisable:
With the winter cover still on, fill the pool water up to the correct level? And in 2-3 weeks take cover off and get the equipment running, test water, and add chemicals as needed.
Really the only question is, is it okay to fill the pool up to correct level in advance of taking the winter cover off?
Hello and Welcome back! I used to live just outside Columbus, about 20 miles NE and had an AGP. I moved away last August though.I may look at just replacing the pump & filter. These look old and worn. Do you think a 1HP pump is okay or should I bump up to a 1-1/2HP, but what size of sand filter for the 24'?
Ah thank you!! Yeah I’m down in Carroll, near Lancaster.Hello and Welcome back! I used to live just outside Columbus, about 20 miles NE and had an AGP. I moved away last August though.
We can help you get your pool up and running.
I loved my TF-100 test kit and I recommend it.
Your pool looks fairly full of water as it is. Have you peaked under the cover to see what the water looks like? Green, clear?
You can try to rake or net out much of the leaves and debris off the top of cover before you remove it. That stuff is heavy and unless you have 2 or 3 ppl helping you remove the cover, the cover will just fall in the water anyway when you release the tension wire. That happened to me every time I opened. Your cover hasn't fallen in. That is how AGP's look with a cover on them. Next year you can add a cover pillow / inner tube to raise the middle and have less water collect on top.
Last year I decided to use the water on the cover as it was of known quality (no chemicals in it). I got the big debris out and 2 days before the opening I added some chlorine on top of the cover to get a jump start on sterilizing the water. I released one small length of the cover and let as much of the clear water in my pool as I could. Only a small amount of the fine debris made it into the pool luckily. My helper and I folder the cover off with the remaining junk still on the cover. Whatever stuff fell in, I vacuumed out after I got the pump/filter up and running. There is always some fines on the bottom anyway.
You have no idea what chemicals the previous owner added beyond what is in your collection. Metals and CYA being the most significant concerns.
Have a well of unknown depth (to us). The well pump is located 214 ft down below the ground level. A test was performed. The pump was run (tested) at 5GPM for 1 hour when drilled in '93. Prior to the test, the water level was 49ft below surface level (location of ground water / aquafer), after running as said 5gpm for 1 hour, the water level inside the well went down to 173ft below ground level (from originally 49 ft below). (The well couldn't maintain constant level inside the well casing, but you didn't draw down to pump level). Test proved the well was suitable for use as drilled.
If you give us the casing diameter we can likely tell you how much reserve your well has before it runs dry (down to the pump). But things may have changed in the last 25 years since it was drilled.
As for your current equipment (pump & filter), I'd use them until they break unless the pump is single speed. I don't see a reason replace working equipment unless you can save energy by doing so. A 1hp pump should be sufficient. But regardless, if you buy a new one, make sure it is 2 speed!
Yes! I have that same product under my front garage car patio cover holding car equipment. Very nice and sturdy. It's nice in that it has a feature to lock it if needed, and is very durable. Perhaps the only thing to be careful of, since I have that exact one, are those lid shock/hinges inside. If you store muriatic acid in there, it may try to rust those. Not sure. Depends on the amount in there and ventilation I suppose. But that's about the only drawback I can think of.Do y’all think it will be okay to store my chemicals and stuff inside this on my deck?
How much liquid chlorine would you recommend adding at this point without testing the water?If you have a submersible pump you can use it to mix your water so you can start getting the water clear again or at least keep it from getting any worse while you do the repair.
Use the current water depth and diameter to have PoolMath calculate the current gallons, aim for 3-5ppm for the amount of chlorine to add.How much liquid chlorine would you recommend adding at this point without testing the water?