New H400FDN 1F won't start

[setsailsoon]

So I'm no trying to demo and make one but rather just figure out how to connect the two bodies. I think a spillover would make more sense.

I have only two goals, heat the pool when I want and get the salt chlorination in both bodies with one chlorinator ( I don't think the Omnilogic will support 2)

Oh, OK that makes sense and Jim's already given you exactly what you need in post #10.

Chris

 

[ajw22]

Or does the Omnilogic close this loop allowing the 24v to flow between its two connections?

Correct. The Omnilogic LVR is just a relay, like a light switch, that turns on the 24V power in the heater.

 

[Whittakerj]

Thabjw

Correct. The Omnilogic LVR is just a relay, like a light swithc, that turns on the 24V power in the heater.

Thanks!

 

[Whittakerj]

Whit,

In the big picture, you need to do three things..

1. Have some kind of spillover from the spa into the pool.. This can be an actual spillover, or a pipe that acts as a spillover.
2. You will need to replumb the Intake side of your pool pump, so that you can select either the spa drain or the Skimmer/Main drain..
3. You will need to replumb the Return side of your pool plumbing, so that you can send water back to the Spa, or pool, or send a little water to the spa for your spillover and the rest of the water back to your pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

OK cool, so if I can logically figure out these three things combining the two bodies of water is not otherwise a big mistake? I'm not a pool guy and just want to make sure I'm not making a major mistake or doing something stupid. Is this approach unreasonable to get the pool some hot water and the spa to salt? Or is there a different approach you would take to solve these two issues?

 

[reggiehammond]

What's in the floater currently in the spa? Trichlor tabs?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Whit,

What I outlined above is how almost all Pool/Spas are built, when using one pump..

It should allow you to use a Pool & Spa automation system to switch between the Pool mode and Spa mode.. With the automation also controlling the heater. And your SWCG feeding both the Pool and the Spa.

I'm sure you could manually do other things, but I suggest that you do it right or not at all.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Whittakerj]

What's in the floater currently in the spa? Trichlor tabs?

I'm a pool noob so I don't totally understand your question. I currently have chlorine tabs in the floater

 

[setsailsoon]

OK cool, so if I can logically figure out these three things combining the two bodies of water is not otherwise a big mistake? I'm not a pool guy and just want to make sure I'm not making a major mistake or doing something stupid. Is this approach unreasonable to get the pool some hot water and the spa to salt? Or is there a different approach you would take to solve these two issues?

My response took you too literally. I thought you wanted to essentially re-construct the pool. But for what you're talking about no absolutely not a bad idea. In fact, if it was my pool I'd do exactly what Jim outlined in post #10.

 

[Whittakerj]

 

[JamesW]

I currently have chlorine tabs in the floater

 

[JamesW]

Copper Questions

I recently acquired a pool maintenance and service business with one quite experienced service/repair tech and one new maintenance tech. So I’m still learning every day and trying to become the resident chem “expert” for the group. Have a customer whose pH is unexpectedly dropping between...

www.troublefreepool.com

1 lbs of trichlor in a 1,000 gallon pool will:

Raise fc by 110 ppm.

Raise CYA by 67 ppm.

Raise salt by 90 ppm.

Lower TA by 77 ppm.

 

[JamesW]

Also, if you know the details of copper’s behavior in solutions, then copper becomes very very soluble in acidic water. The presence of an oxidizer like chlorine just initiates and feeds into the dissolution of copper metal into water as copper ions. So when you have highly acidic pool water in contact with copper metal, it’s a “perfect storm” of chemistry to cause damage. Most heat exchangers will have a little bit of calcium carbonate scale on the internal surface to protect the metal but that too dissolves quickly at low pH and so there really isn’t a lot of margin of error for the heat exchanger.

 

[ajw22]

The plumbing changes are relatively easy once you get s proper spillover to connect your bodies of water.

This is the basic way your plumbing will need to be changed:

I think you should focus on your spillover problem and how that would be implemented.

You need to be able to have the water level below the spillover when the spa is in use, when people are in it, and when the spa is idle.

The equipment will suck water from the pool and return it to the spa or toe the spa and pool which causes the spa to fill to where water runs over the spillover back to the pool completing the waters circulation.

You need to determine how your spa will have those two different water levels.

 

[ajw22]

You need to consider the costs of all the modifications to change your pool into a single system shared body of water versus just adding another heater and Aquarite SWG to your pool.

What size T-cell do you have on your spa?

 

[1poolman1]

View attachment 613125

Don't use them exclusively as your only source of chlorine or you will have issues with pH dropping, low/no alkalinity, CYA rising too far, equipment damage, plaster damage.
A couple of tablets in a floater will add about 10 PPM of chlorine to your pool, but very slowly. Using a lot of tablets in that floater will cause issues.

 

[reggiehammond]

I'm a pool noob so I don't totally understand your question. I currently have chlorine tabs in the floater

Ok - tabs in a hot tub can be very problematic. They're very acidic and you can destroy a heater very quickly.

Do you have a good test kit? It's crucial.
Test Kits Compared

I'd remove the floater and pitch it in to the pool for now.

 

[ajw22]

I'd remove the floater and pitch it in to the pool for now.

Only if he then chlorinates the spa daily using liquid chlorine.

 

[Whittakerj]

You need to consider the costs of all the modifications to change your pool into a single system shared body of water versus just adding another heater and Aquarite SWG to your pool.

What size T-cell do you have on your spa?

The 40k gallon one. Modifying those artificial rocks to create a spillover seems relatively simple

 

[Whittakerj]

Whit,

In the big picture, you need to do three things..

1. Have some kind of spillover from the spa into the pool.. This can be an actual spillover, or a pipe that acts as a spillover.
2. You will need to replumb the Intake side of your pool pump, so that you can select either the spa drain or the Skimmer/Main drain..
3. You will need to replumb the Return side of your pool plumbing, so that you can send water back to the Spa, or pool, or send a little water to the spa for your spillover and the rest of the water back to your pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I understand #3. If I want to send to spa from the pool and mix water I could. Also heating the pool with spillover water.

But what is the point of #2? If I open the spa drain and it returns to the pool wouldn't that effectively drain my spa and overflow my pool?

 

[Whittakerj]

So this is my current waterfall for the pool. Does anyone have pool construction experience? I'm wondering if taking a grinder and removing the top part of this artificial rock to make this the spillover would be a good idea? There appears to be a 2" Pvc pipe in the center.