New Build Quotes and Equipment - Feedback Welcome

Sharpokie

Member
Sep 16, 2021
11
Broken Arrow, OK
We have gotten a couple of bids for a new pool. We have not fully decided which we will choose or even if we will build right now (prices are insane). I've learned so much on this forum, I was hoping that some of you can take a look at these two different designs. I included diagram and pic for each one and also a PDF where I have lined up the features, equipment, etc side by side for PB1 and PB2 in a spreadsheet. I know there are some experts on here so I would love any feedback on specified equipment, construction information, etc. Thanks so much, in advance!
 

Attachments

  • Pool Bid Comparison - Equipment 3-9-22.pdf
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  • Pool Builder #1 Diagram.jpg
    Pool Builder #1 Diagram.jpg
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  • Pool Builder #1 image.jpg
    Pool Builder #1 image.jpg
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  • Pool Builder #2 Diagram.jpg
    Pool Builder #2 Diagram.jpg
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  • Pool Builder #2 Image.jpg
    Pool Builder #2 Image.jpg
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Design of pool #2 would be my choice if had to pick between the two.
layout of the pool and spa is more functional and pleasing to the eye.
Tanning ledge in pool #1 is cut back and lounges will be tight and only fit on one side, also due to shallow end at 4’ steps take up more floor space.
location of spa and tanning ledge in pool #2 is more common. Tanning ledge closer to house than the spa.
Pool #2 is 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 to 4 1/2 in depth (play pool) and is very functional, remember you can only tread water for so long in a deep end.
Both spas are under 8’ and only 6 jets, may want to consider a larger size with more jets (calf/ foot) locations.
No mention of PSI for Gunite.
Pool #2 has a tighter steel cage @10” OC. #4 bar.
Hope this helps, Ray.
 
I agree with Ray, design #2 is a better use of your space and a better design. My old pool was a sports pool 3.5’ - 6’ - 4’. My only complaint is the 3.5’ section was too shallow for most people. I would go with 4’, personally, for my shallowest water.

Ray also brings up some great points on spa jets, the main thing to consider is GPM for each additional jet and if your pump(s) can supply the correct force to get a good therapy soak. We have 20 jets with 3 pumps and a 2HP blower. 16 of those jets, 4 per person, are parajets with different therapy heads. The other 4 are foot jets.
 
Oh I am in on this one! Now lets ask some questions to dial in your pool and surrounding area.

-will you have a TV outside anywhere? If so where?

Show us some pics of the back of your house so we can see the windows and sight lines from the house to the pool.

Depth of pool-Make sure you are talking WATER depth which is from the floor to the middle of the waterline tile/skimmer face. Some people say depth is from the floor to just under the coping. If that is used you lose quite a bit of water depth.

Do something for me. Get a tape measure and mark 3'5" then 4' somewhere. See where those depths hit you standing and kneeling. I will tell you anything less than 3'5" is "unswimable" as far as a crawl stroke as you will hit the bottom of the pool on your down stroke.

Kim:kim:
 
We have gotten a couple of bids for a new pool. We have not fully decided which we will choose or even if we will build right now (prices are insane). I've learned so much on this forum, I was hoping that some of you can take a look at these two different designs. I included diagram and pic for each one and also a PDF where I have lined up the features, equipment, etc side by side for PB1 and PB2 in a spreadsheet. I know there are some experts on here so I would love any feedback on specified equipment, construction information, etc. Thanks so much, in advance!

We have gotten a couple of bids for a new pool. We have not fully decided which we will choose or even if we will build right now (prices are insane). I've learned so much on this forum, I was hoping that some of you can take a look at these two different designs. I included diagram and pic for each one and also a PDF where I have lined up the features, equipment, etc side by side for PB1 and PB2 in a spreadsheet. I know there are some experts on here so I would love any feedback on specified equipment, construction information, etc. Thanks so much, in advance!
S,

What kind of specs did you provide? The quotes are substantially different so it's hard to compare them fairly. If you're concerned about price you can tell them each to bid a price for a given size with 2-3 options. Also, don't forget to compare their contract terms for things like:
  • Completeness. Who removes debris, underground hidden conditions, permits, release of liens forms etc.
  • Your obligations
  • Warranty
  • Reference reports
  • Payment terms
  • Performance test
These are only a few items but they can be as important to a successful project than any of the other items. One of the worst ways to choose is to go with "the one we seemed to work with well". That often changes after the contract is signed. Look around on this site and you will find horror stories that result when the contracting side is ignored. It's not hard to do this part right. Just takes a little effort and can be huge in making the right choice.

One last thing on the crazy supply chain world we live in. Commodity prices for everything are going through the roof with no end in sight. It calmed down a little a few months ago but everything is ramping up again now. I would consider locking in the expensive items as soon as possible with your contractor. This requires a different kind of contract than most commonly used. The only way a contractor can give you a lump sum is to guess the highest price for each item so he doesn't lose money. I'm finding success with this approach on my OB house and pool project right now. I ordered concrete 2 months ago, block 3 months ago, and trusses 4 months ago. I delayed for a year to wait 'till supply commitments could be firm. Now you can get them but they are often only valid for 14 days or less. If you don't lock in materials separate from labor, overhead, profit the price will be higher than you need to pay or even worse the builder will get in trouble during your build.

I wish I had better news for you and I hope this is helpful.

Chris
PS I see no change to this craziness for at least 2-3 years. Below is copper graphs. You can find similar information on all commodities used in construction and they look similar.

1647095356104.png
 
Design of pool #2 would be my choice if had to pick between the two.
layout of the pool and spa is more functional and pleasing to the eye.
Tanning ledge in pool #1 is cut back and lounges will be tight and only fit on one side, also due to shallow end at 4’ steps take up more floor space.
location of spa and tanning ledge in pool #2 is more common. Tanning ledge closer to house than the spa.
Pool #2 is 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 to 4 1/2 in depth (play pool) and is very functional, remember you can only tread water for so long in a deep end.
Both spas are under 8’ and only 6 jets, may want to consider a larger size with more jets (calf/ foot) locations.
No mention of PSI for Gunite.
Pool #2 has a tighter steel cage @10” OC. #4 bar.
Hope this helps, Ray.
Thank you for your insight! I appreciate the feedback on placement of the tanning ledge and spa size. We will take that into consideration. We will ask about PSI on both. I noticed that the 2nd one had the tighter construction than the other one at 12 OC. Do you know what a standard number is? Is 10 OC standard?
Thank you so much!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I agree with Ray, design #2 is a better use of your space and a better design. My old pool was a sports pool 3.5’ - 6’ - 4’. My only complaint is the 3.5’ section was too shallow for most people. I would go with 4’, personally, for my shallowest water.

Ray also brings up some great points on spa jets, the main thing to consider is GPM for each additional jet and if your pump(s) can supply the correct force to get a good therapy soak. We have 20 jets with 3 pumps and a 2HP blower. 16 of those jets, 4 per person, are parajets with different therapy heads. The other 4 are foot jets.
Thanks for confirming Ray's analysis. We kind of lean to #2 as well. I kind of like the idea of 4 ft myself. Thanks for the info on spa jets. Wow....yours sounds wonderful! This is definitely something I am learning so I appreciate your help!
 
Their is no standard for rebar in a swimming pool and spa, this is determined by a engineering firm and they determine what size rebar 3-4-5 also how often it crosses itself 12”-10” 8” and so on. What they take into consideration is the amount of water force from the inside of the pool pushing outward and outside forces supporting the shell of the pool if any. Taking that into consideration the bid with 10” OC with #4 bar will be stronger than the 12” OC with #4 bar.
 
Thanks for confirming Ray's analysis. We kind of lean to #2 as well. I kind of like the idea of 4 ft myself. Thanks for the info on spa jets. Wow....yours sounds wonderful! This is definitely something I am learning so I appreciate your help!

Their is no standard for rebar in a swimming pool and spa, this is determined by a engineering firm and they determine what size rebar 3-4-5 also how often it crosses itself 12”-10” 8” and so on. What they take into consideration is the amount of water force from the inside of the pool pushing outward and outside forces supporting the shell of the pool if any. Taking that into consideration the bid with 10” OC with #4 bar will be stronger than the 12” OC with #4 bar.
Ok thanks so much.
 
Oh I am in on this one! Now lets ask some questions to dial in your pool and surrounding area.

-will you have a TV outside anywhere? If so where?

Show us some pics of the back of your house so we can see the windows and sight lines from the house to the pool.

Depth of pool-Make sure you are talking WATER depth which is from the floor to the middle of the waterline tile/skimmer face. Some people say depth is from the floor to just under the coping. If that is used you lose quite a bit of water depth.

Do something for me. Get a tape measure and mark 3'5" then 4' somewhere. See where those depths hit you standing and kneeling. I will tell you anything less than 3'5" is "unswimable" as far as a crawl stroke as you will hit the bottom of the pool on your down stroke.

Kim:kim:
Thank you. We are thinking about a swivel TV near/on the middle post on the patio so that we can see it from back patio or turn around to watch from hot tub or pool at night.
We did ask about depth with both builders. It is water depth. And I like the idea of 4' over 3.5'. We do want to do some "laps" as much as is possible in a pool that is not a lap pool.
I attached 4 pics. Two from PB1 and two from PB2 showing back of house and views out from patio and from in house. :) The aesthetic view was something I mentioned to them when they came out. Wanted a great view to enjoy from inside house.
 

Attachments

  • PB#1 simulated view out back door.jpg
    PB#1 simulated view out back door.jpg
    299.7 KB · Views: 28
  • PB#1 view from patio.jpg
    PB#1 view from patio.jpg
    398.9 KB · Views: 28
  • PB#2 Back of house from side.jpg
    PB#2 Back of house from side.jpg
    371.3 KB · Views: 28
  • PB#2 view from patio-windows.jpg
    PB#2 view from patio-windows.jpg
    290.3 KB · Views: 28

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S,

What kind of specs did you provide? The quotes are substantially different so it's hard to compare them fairly. If you're concerned about price you can tell them each to bid a price for a given size with 2-3 options. Also, don't forget to compare their contract terms for things like:
  • Completeness. Who removes debris, underground hidden conditions, permits, release of liens forms etc.
  • Your obligations
  • Warranty
  • Reference reports
  • Payment terms
  • Performance test
These are only a few items but they can be as important to a successful project than any of the other items. One of the worst ways to choose is to go with "the one we seemed to work with well". That often changes after the contract is signed. Look around on this site and you will find horror stories that result when the contracting side is ignored. It's not hard to do this part right. Just takes a little effort and can be huge in making the right choice.

One last thing on the crazy supply chain world we live in. Commodity prices for everything are going through the roof with no end in sight. It calmed down a little a few months ago but everything is ramping up again now. I would consider locking in the expensive items as soon as possible with your contractor. This requires a different kind of contract than most commonly used. The only way a contractor can give you a lump sum is to guess the highest price for each item so he doesn't lose money. I'm finding success with this approach on my OB house and pool project right now. I ordered concrete 2 months ago, block 3 months ago, and trusses 4 months ago. I delayed for a year to wait 'till supply commitments could be firm. Now you can get them but they are often only valid for 14 days or less. If you don't lock in materials separate from labor, overhead, profit the price will be higher than you need to pay or even worse the builder will get in trouble during your build.

I wish I had better news for you and I hope this is helpful.

Chris
PS I see no change to this craziness for at least 2-3 years. Below is copper graphs. You can find similar information on all commodities used in construction and they look similar.

View attachment 394400
Chris....Thanks for your feedback. On the specs question, I included pool and spa dimensions, equipment, construction info, etc in the PDF. Is there other information that would be common in a bid? On the contract, you are certainly correct. I think we will have to get much more detail for a contract. Thanks for the list of things to consider. My list of considerations is getting longer and longer. :)
Are you in the industry? How would we go about locking down the expensive items with a contractor?
Of the two quotes we received, one was more detailed than the other. One PB simply gave us a bottom line number and it was about $25-$35K over what I thought a ceiling would be. (Maybe a case of what you mentioned---taking highest price of everything and quoting one lump sum.) The other was more detailed by pool, spa, rock water feature/wall, decking and had extras itemized. Prices are crazy right now. PB#1 pool build was around $100K, PB#2 was about $126K. PB #2 about 35% bigger in gallons with more decking and longer wall than PB#1. Those numbers don't include the extras we will add like a pergola, french drain, landscaping, sod, sprinkler repair/redirect.
Makes us very hesitant. Your point on commodities doesn't make it seem much more feasible for quite a while.
Thank you for your insight!
 
Here is what I would do:

-take out the bench on the left side of the pool as looking at the house. It cuts into your "swim lane". The bench on the house side will be great from watching TV and chatting with those on the patio. The spa will be a grand place to chat with those under the gazebo.

Kim:kim:
 
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