New build - Option to auto fill from water softener

[GP2]

Build is currently underway and the auto fill line is being run to an outdoor hose bib that is not on the water softener loop. I have a nearby outdoor sink connection with softened water that I could use instead as make-up. PB is open to connecting to either (or both) but I think I will have to decide which is primary. It will take a little extra work to get to the soft water connection but not too bad (pipe through the back of the brick cabinet)

My T100 test kit is in the mail so I plan to test CH of both sources once it arrives, but the water company says their testing shows calcium hardness untreated is 140.

Any thoughts on the best strategy... pick only one to connect to, or connect to both and have one as the primary? Which one would be the best primary make-up? Is there a rule of thumb on what level of source CH would be high enough to warrant connecting to softened water?

Thanks!

(Stonescapes minipebble Plaster pool)

 

[pooldv]

CH of 140 isnt too bad. Where in texas? If your evaporation rate isnt too bad then either is fine. If you have a hjgh evaporation rate then connecting to the softener will help. Or, best of both worlds would be to connect to both with a valve and choose which one you want as needed.

 

[GP2]

We are in Houston, TX. Will be our first pool so no direct experience with the evaporation rate or how much makeup we’ll need.

 

[mknauss]

In Houston the air is all ready pretty much saturated so I doubt your evaporation is all that high.

 

[pooldv]

Yes, high humidity and plenty of rain means evaporation shouldn't be a major issue.

 

[jp1000]

Hi I assume your water softener is not an electronic type?

The reason I mention it is because although they work very well. We have one here. They work by suspending the calcium (or some other magic trick!!) however, whatever it does comes out of suspension after a while so not suitable for filling anything where water is sitting.
We have an external toilet that is used infrequently and is in a worse state with calcium build up that anywhere else in the house.

Just thought I would mention it - may help someone to make a decision some time.

John

 

[GP2]

Good point. I think we will be ok with our setup. Our softener is a Resin tank with clack valve that should remove the Ca and Mg (hard water minerals attracted to the resin and once the resin is saturated it goes through a regeneration cycle and minerals are washed to the drain).

 

[GP2]

T-100 kit arrived and I was able to test actual CH. The untreated water was 175 CH (between 150-175, which is a little higher than the the H2O provider's advertised 140). The softened was of course <25.

If 175 if isn't a real cause for concern, I'm leaning towards going with the untreated autofill just to keep it simple for now and make the extra tie-in later, only if I find it's needed. . . . Curious if most would agree with this approach given the 175 CH, or would go ahead and make the tie-in now (if you think it's inevitable that it would be a significant benefit to have). Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

In Houston I would not bother connecting to the water softener unless really easy. You will not get the evaporation that fill water is needed all that much. And it rains there.

 

[duraleigh]

CH 175 in Houston is manageable, for sure. I would fill with unsoftened water.

That said, don't neglect CH test. CH will slowly increase in your pool over maybe a season or two and then you would do well to drain maybe half of it to keep you CH in the 300 or so range which is about perfect.